Residential Rehabilitation Inspe 9#â G;ãG;ã BOOKMOBI Ÿ b ^ +^ ;^ K^ [^ k^ {^ ‹^ ›^ «^ »^ Ë^ Û^ ë^ û^ ^ ^ +^ ;^ K^ [^ k^ {^ ‹^ ›^ «^ »^ Ë^ Û^ ë^ û^ ^ ^ +^ ;^ K^ [^ k^ {^ ‹^ ›^ «^ »^ Ë^ Û^ ë^ û^ ^ ^ +^ ;^ K^ [^ k^ {^ ‹^ ›^ «^ »^ Ë^ Û^ ë^ û^ ^ ^ +^ ;^ K^ [^ k^ {^ ‹^ ›^ «^ »^ Ë^ Û^ ë^ û^ ^ ^ +^ ;^ K^ [^ k^ {^ ‹^ ›^ «^ »^ Ë^ Û^ ë^ û^ ^ ^ +^ © a MOBI ýéuüÃ
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF HOUSING AND URBAN DEVELOPMENT R e s i d e n t i a l Rehabilitation Inspection Guide U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research
Residential Inspection Residential Rehabilitation Inspection Guideline Prepared for the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research by the National Institute of Building Sciences, Washington, D.C. under Contract C-OPC-21204 February 2000
Residential Inspection PATH (Partnership for Advancing Technology in Housing) is a new private/public effort to develop, demonstrate, and gain widespread acceptance for the “Next Generation” of American housing. Through the use of new and innovative technologies the goal of PATH is to improve the quality, durability, environmental efficiency, and affordability of tomorrow's houses. Initiated at the request of the White House, PATH is managed and supported by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development. In addition, all Federal Agencies that engage in housing research and technology development are PATH part- ners, including the Department of Energy, the Department of Commerce, the Environmental Protection Agency, and the Federal Emergency Management Agency. State and local govern- ments and other participants in the public sector also are part- ners in PATH. Product manufacturers, home builders, insurance companies, and lenders represent private industry in the PATH partnership. To learn more, please contact: PATH, Suite B133, 451 Seventh Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20410; fax 202-708-4250; e-mail pathnet@pathnet.org. The statements and conclusions contained in this publication are those of the National Institute of Building Sciences and do not necessarily reflect the view of the Department of Housing and Urban Development. The Institute has made every effort to verify the accuracy and appropri- ateness of the publication's content. However, no guarantee of the accu- racy or completeness of the information or acceptability for compliance with any industry standard or mandatory requirement of any code, law, or regulation is either offered or implied.
Residential Inspection iii Foreword An important factor in making the best use of our nation’s housing stock is accurately assessing the condition, safety, usefulness, and rehabilitation potential of older residential buildings. The Residential Rehabilitation Inspection Guide provides step-by-step technical information for evaluating a residential building’s site, exterior, interior, and structural, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC systems. First published by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development in 1984 as the Guideline on Residential Building Systems Inspection, the guideline has found widespread use and acceptance among architects, engineers, builders, realtors, and preservationists. Now, for the Partnership for Advancing Technology in Housing (PATH) program, the guideline has been updated and expanded to include current assessment techniques and standards, information about additional building materials, and a broader coverage of haz- ardous substances and the effects of earthquakes, wind, and floods. HUD is pleased to reissue this important and time-tested publica- tion, knowing that it will prove a valuable resource for preserving and reusing our nation’s building stock. Susan M. Wachter Assistant Secretary for Policy Development and Research
Residential Inspectioniv
Residential Inspection v Acknowledgments The National Institute of Building Sciences (NIBS) produced the original ed ition of this guideline for the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development in 1984. It was written by William Brenner of Building Technology, Incorporated, with supplementary material and photographs provided by Richard Stephan, Ken Frank, and Gerard Diaz of the University Research Corporation. Technical reviewers were George Schoonover, Eugene Davidson, Joseph Wintz, Richard Ortega, Nick Gianopulos, Robert Santucci, James Wolf, and Thomas Fean. This revised edition of the guideline was produced in 1999 by NIBS and updated and expanded by Thomas Ware and David Hattis of Building Technology, Incorporated. Technical reviewers were William Asdal, Neal FitzSimons, Wade Elrod, Hal Williamson, Paul Beers, John Bouman, Raymond Jones, Dan Kluckhuhn, Joe Sherman, William Freeborne, and Robert Kapsch. The graphic designer was Marcia Axtmann Smith. Selected illustrations are excerpted with permission from The Illustrated Home by Carson Dunlop & Associates (800-268- 7070) and the material in Appendix C is used with the permission of the National Association of Homebuilders. William Brenner direct- ed the project for NIBS and Nelson Carbonell was the HUD project manager.
Residential Inspectionvi
Residential Inspection vii Table of Contents Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .iii Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .v Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 1—Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 1.1 Drainage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 1.2 Site Improvements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 1.3 Outbuildings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 1.4 Yards and Courts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 1.5 Flood Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 2—Building Exterior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 2.1 Foundation Walls and Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 2.2 Exterior Wall Cladding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 2.3 Windows and Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 2.4 Decks, Porches, and Balconies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 2.5 Pitched Roof Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 2.6 Low-Slope Roof Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 2.7 Skylights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 2.8 Gutters and Downspouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 2.9 Chimneys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 2.10 Parapets and Gables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 2.11 Lightning Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 3—Building Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 3.1 Basement or Crawl Space . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 3.2 Interior Spaces, General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 3.3 Bathrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 3.4 Kitchens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 3.5 Storage Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 3.6 Stairs and Hallways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 3.7 Laundries and Utility Rooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 3.8 Fireplaces and Flues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 3.9 Attics and Roof Truss and Joist Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 3.10 Whole-Building Thermal Efficiency Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 3.11 Sound Transmission Control Between Dwelling Units . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 3.12 Asbestos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Residential Inspectionviii 3.13 Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 3.14 Radon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 3.15 Tornado Safe Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 4—Structural System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 4.1 Seismic Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 4.2 Wind Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 4.3 Masonry, General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 4.4 Masonry Foundations and Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 4.5 Above-Ground Masonry Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 4.6 Chimneys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 4.7 Wood Structural Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 4.8 Iron and Steel Structural Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 4.9 Concrete Structural Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 5—Electrical System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 5.1 Service Entry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 5.2 Main Panelboard (Service Equipment) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 5.3 Branch Circuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 6—Plumbing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 6.1 Water Service Entry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 6.2 Interior Water Distribution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 6.3 Drain, Waste, and Vent Piping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 6.4 Tank Water Heaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 6.5 Tankless Coil Water Heaters (Instantaneous Water Heaters) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 6.6 Water Wells and Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 6.7 Septic Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 6.8 Gas Supply in Seismic Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 7—HVAC System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 7.1 Thermostatic Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 7.2 Fuel-Burning Units, General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 7.3 Forced Warm Air Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 7.4 Forced Hot Water (Hydronic) Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 7.5 Steam Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 7.6 Electric Resistance Heating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 7.7 Central Air Conditioning Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 7.8 Central Gas-Absorption Cooling Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 7.9 Heat Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Residential Inspection ix 7.10 Evaporative Cooling Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 7.11 Humidifiers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 7.12 Unit (Window) Air Conditioners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 7.13 Whole House and Attic Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 Appendix A—The Effects of Fire on Structural Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-1 Appendix B—Wood-Inhabiting Organisms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-1 Appendix C— Life Expectancy of Housing Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-1 Appendix D—References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-1 Appendix E—Inspection Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-1 List of Figures 4.1 Assessing Structural Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 5.1 Assessing Electrical Service Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 6.1 Assessing Water Supply Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 6.2 Assessing DWV Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 6.3 Assessing Hot Water Heater Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 6.4 Assessing Well Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 6.5 Assessing Septic Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 7.1 Assessing Heating and Cooling Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Residential Inspectionx
Residential Inspection 1 Residential Inspection Guideline Introduction The Residential Inspection Guide- l i n e is designed to help evaluate the rehabilitation potential of small residential buildings and structures. It may be used by contractors, builders, realtors, home inspectors, and others with a basic knowledge of building c o n s t r u c t i o n . When used in conjunction with the local building code, the guide- line can assist in identifying un- safe or hazardous conditions and uncovering functional deficiencies that should be corrected. It does not establish rehabilitation stan- dards or address construction, operation, and maintenance costs. Preparing for the Inspection Before visiting the site, check with the local jurisdiction to determine: � the site’s zoning, setback, height, and building coverage requirements, grandfathered uses and conditions, proffers, liens, and applicable fire regulations. � if the site is in a seismic zone. � if the site is in a hurricane or high tornado-risk region. � if the site is in a flood plain or other flood-risk zone. � if there is any record of hazards in the soil or water on or near the site. Conducting the On-Site Inspection Once at the site, conduct a brief walk-through of the site and the building. Note the property’s overall appearance and condition. If it appears to have been well maintained, it is far less likely to have serious problems. Note the building’s style and period and try to determine when it was built. Next, examine the quality of the building’s design and con- struction and that of its neighbor- hood. There is no substitute for good design and sound, durable construction. Finally, assess the b u i l d i n g ’ s functional layout. Does the building “work” or will it have to be significantly altered to make it usable and marketable? Look for signs of dampness and water damage. Water is usually a building’s biggest enemy and a dry building will not have prob- lems with wood decay, subter- ranean termites, or rusted and corroded equipment. After completing the initial walk- through, begin the formal inspec- tion p rocess: � Inspect the site, building exte- rior, and building interior i n accordance with Chapters 1, 2, and 3. Use the tests described in Chapters 2 and 3 when appropriate. Record pertinent information as needed. � Inspect the structural, electri- cal, plumbing, and HVAC sys- tems in accordance with Chap- ters 4, 5, 6, and 7. Use the tests described in each chapter as necessary. Record the size, capacity, and other relevant information about each system or component as needed. While most inspections consist of observing, measuring, and testing building elements that are ex- posed to view, there are condi- tions that require the removal of some part of the building to ob- serve, measure, or test otherwise concealed construction. Such in- trusive inspections require some demolition and should be per- formed only with the permission of the owner and by experienced, qualified mechanics. The building inspection forms in Appendix E may be copied for use during on-site inspections. Record general building data and site lay- outs, elevations, and floor plans first. This information will form the basis for later rehabilitation decisions. Then record the size, capacity, and condition/needed repairs information for each building component. This will highlight what needs to be repaired or replaced. The inspection may be completed in one visit or over several visits, depending on the property’s con- dition, the weather, problems of access, and the need for testing or expert help.
Residential Inspection2 More Information Appendix A provides information on assessing the effects of fire on wood, masonry, steel, and con- crete structural systems. Appendix B can be used as an aid in the identification of wood-inhabiting molds, fungi, and insects. Appen- dix C lists the average life expect- ancies of common housing materi- als, components, and appliances. Appendix D provides ordering and Internet access information for the publications and standards refer- enced herein as well as a listing of applicable publications on building assessment, energy conservation, and historic preservation. Use the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation when dealing with historic properties. They are available full text online at http://www2.cr. nps.gov/tps. When a property is rehabilitated for resale or when a contractor or builder is rehabilitating a property for its owner, consider using the Residential Construction Perform- ance Guidelines. These were devel- oped by the National Association of Home Builders’ Remodelers Council, Single Family Small Vol- ume Builders Committee. When assessing the tornado risk at a site, consider using T a k i n g Shelter from the Storm: Building a Safe Room Inside Your House, available from the Federal Emer- gency Management Agency (FEMA). When assessing the flood risk at a site and before undertaking any applicable rehabilitation mea- sures, consider using Design Man- ual for Retrofitting Flood Prone Residential Structures, available from the Federal Emergency Management Agency. When inspecting a building locat- ed in a region of high seismic activity or in a hurricane r e g i o n , additional information on vulnera- bility assessment and retrofit options can be found in Is Your Home Protected from Earthquake D i s a s t e r ? and I s Your Home Pro- tected from Hurricane Disaster? Both documents are available from the Institute for Business and Home Safety or can be viewed full text online at http://www.ibhs.org. For those interested in working with local officials to make build- ing codes more amenable to reha- bilitation work, see the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development's Nationally Applic- able Recommended Rehabilitation P r o v i s i o n s.
Residential Inspection 3 1 Site Begin the rehabilitation inspec- tion by thorou ghly examining the property’s drainage, site improve- ments, and outbuildings. Al- though their condition may have a profound impact on the total costs of the rehabilitation pro- ject, they are often overlooked or not fully considered in the initial building assessment. Tree removal, the replacement of side- walks and driveways, and the repair of outbuildings can add substantially to rehabilitation expenses and may make the dif- ference between a project that is economically feasible and one that is not. Earthquake. Check the slope of the site. Buildings constructed on slopes of 20 degrees or more should be examined by a structur- al engineer in all seismic regions, including regions of low seismic activity. See Section 4.1, Seismic Resistance. Wind. If the site is in a hurricane or high wind region, it should be examined for loose fences, tree limbs, landscaping materials such as gravel and small rocks, and other objects that could become windborne debris in a storm. See Section 4.2, Wind Resistance. Floods. Five major flood-risk zones have been established to define where floods occur, and special flood resistance require- ments have been created for each zone. Check with local authorities. See Section 1.5, Flood Regions. Lead. Consider checking for the presence of lead in the soil, which can be a hazard to children play- ing outdoors and can be brought indoors on shoes. Lead in soil can come from different sources such as discarded lead-based paint, lead-based paint chips near foun- dations from when exterior walls were scraped and painted, leaded gasoline (now banned) on drive- ways where car repairs were made, leaded gasoline from car exhaust, and old trash sites where lead-bearing items were discard- ed. Check the site for evidence of any of these conditions and if found, consider having the soil tested for lead content. Wildfires. In locations where wildfires can occur, some juris- dictions have requirements for hydrant locations and restrictions on the use of certain building materials as well as restrictions on plantings close to a building. Check with the local building offi- cial and the fire marshal for such requirements. Building Expansion. If a rehabili- tation project includes expanding a building or outbuilding, an assessment of the site for this work is critical. There is also a complementary need to examine zoning regulations to establish allowable coverage and setbacks. The use of available land may be restricted by coverage and set- back requirements that define the areas on the site that can be used for new construction. Site Restrictions. H o m e o w n e r association bylaws and deed cov- enants sometimes include require- ments that can affect changes or additions to a building or out- building. These documents should be carefully examined to deter- mine their impact. Accessibility. When universal design is a part of a rehabilita- tion, consult the HUD publication Residential Remodeling and Uni- versal Design for detailed infor- mation about parking, walks, and patios. 1.1 Drainage Observe the drainage pattern of the entire property, as well as that of adjacent properties. The ground should slope away from all sides of the building. Down- spouts, surface gutters, and drains should direct water away from the foundation. Check the planting beds adjacent to the foundations. Plantings are often mounded in a way that traps water and edging around planting beds acts like a dam to trap water. Most problems with mois- ture in basements are caused by poor site drainage. The ground also should slope away from window wells, outside basement stairs, and other area- ways. The bottom of each of these should be sloped to a drain. Each drain should have piping that connects it to a storm water drainage system, if there is one, or that drains to either a dis- charge at a lower grade or into a sump pit that collects and dis- perses water away from the build- ing. Drains and piping should be open and clear of leaves, earth, and debris. A garden hose can be
Residential Inspection4 Poor site drainage leads to a variety of problems, in this case a wet basement. used to test water flow, although its discharge cannot approximate storm conditions. Where a building is situated on a hillside, it is more difficult to slope the ground away from the building on all sides. On the high ground side of the building, the slope of the ground toward the building should be interrupted by a surface drainage system that collects and disposes of rainwater runoff. There are two general types of surface drainage sys- tems: an open system consisting of a swale (often referred to as a ditch), sometimes with a culvert at its end to collect and channel water away, and a closed system consisting of gutters with catch basins. Combinations of the two are often used. The locations and layout of culverts, gutters, drains, and catch basins should be such that if they became blocked and overflowed no significant damage will occur and that any resultant ice conditions will not pose a dan- ger to pedestrians or vehicles. The design of surface drainage systems is based on the intensity and duration of rain storms and on allowable runoff. These condi- tions are usually regulated by the local building code, which can be used to check the adequacy of an existing surface drainage system. In some locations, especially where slopes lack vegetation to slow water flow, it may be possi- ble to reduce rehabilitation costs by diverting rainwater into a swale at or near the top of the slope and thereby reduce the amount of rainwater runoff han- dled by a surface drainage sys- tem. This swale, of course, must be within the property on which the building is located. The ground beneath porches and other parts of a building that are supported on piers should be examined carefully. It should have no low areas and be sloped so that water will not collect there. Water from the roof reaches the ground through gutters and down- spouts or by flowing directly off roof edges. Because downspouts create concentrated sources of water in the landscape, where they discharge is important. Down- spouts should not discharge where water will flow directly on or over a walk, drive, or stairs. The down- spouts on a hillside building should discharge on the downhill side of the building. The force of
Residential Inspection 5 water leaving a downspout is sometimes great enough to dam- age the adjacent ground, so some protection at grade such as a splash pan or a paved drainage chute is needed. In urban areas, it is better to drain downspouts to an underground storm water drainage system, if there is one, or underground to discharge at a lower grade away from buildings. Water that flows directly off a roof lacking gutters and down- spouts can cause damage below. Accordingly, some provision in the landscaping may be needed, such as a gravel bed or paved drainage way. When a sump pump is used to keep a building interior dry, the discharge onto the site should be located so that the discharge drains away from the building and does not add to the subsur- face water condition the sump pump is meant to control. The site should be examined overall for the presence of springs, standing water, saturat- ed or boggy ground, a high water table, and dry creeks or other seasonal drainage ways, all of which may affect surface drainage. It is especially impor- tant to inspect the ground at and around a septic system seepage bed, seepage pit, or absorption trenches. See Section 6.7. Where a building is situated on a hillside, swales can be used to direct surface water away from the foundation. Settled backfill allows water to collect next to the foundation wal l and penetrates into the basement.
Residential Inspection6 1.2 Site Improvements Well-maintained landscaping and other site improvements are im- portant for the enjoyment, resale, or rental value of a property. In- spect the following: � Plantings. Note the location and condition of all trees and shrubbery. Those that are over- grown may need pruning or trimming; in some cases they may be so overgrown that they will have to be removed. When trees or shrubbery exhibit dis- ease or infestation, consult a qualified expert. Removing large trees may require special expertise and can be particu- larly costly. Check where overhanging branches may interfere with the chimney’s draft, damage utility wires, or deposit leaves and twigs in roof gutters and drains. Trees and shrubbery that are very close to exterior walls or roofs can cause damage that is sometimes severe, and they can make it difficult to make inspections, do maintenance, and make repairs. Branches in these locations will need to be pruned back. Tree roots under paving and stairs can cause damage that is sometimes severe. Roots are usually exposed near the sur- face and will need to be cut back. Tree roots can heave foun- dations and may cause crack- ing by pushing against foun- dations from the outside. If tree roots are under a footing, cutting down the tree can lead to rotting of the roots and subsequent settling of the f o u n d a t i o n . Observe the solar shading characteristics of all site plant- ings. Do they provide protec- tion from the summer sun and allow the winter sun to warm the building? Large deciduous trees located to the south and west of a building can do both, and a special effort should be made to retain and protect such trees where they exist. � Fences. Fences are usually installed to provide physical or visual privacy. Examine their plumbness and overall condi- tion. Inspect wood fences for signs of rot or insect infesta- tion and inspect metal fences for rust. Inspect all gates and their associated hardware for proper fit, operation, and clear- ance. Fences are often addres- sed in homeowner association bylaws and deed covenants. These should be checked and their requirements, if any, compared to existing condi- tions or used for the design of a new or replacement fence. Pay special attention to fence locations and property lines. � Lighting. Examine outdoor lighting elements to determine their condition and functional safety. Turn site lighting on, preferably at night, to check its operation and to determine if the light is adequate for its purpose. Exposed wiring that is not UV- and moisture-resistant should be replaced. Under- ground wiring should be type UF. Fixtures, switches, and outlets should be properly cov- ered and protected from mois- ture penetration. � Paved areas. Inspect all walks, drives, and patios for their condition and to make sure paved areas immediately adja- cent to a building are sloped away from building walls. Paving that is not sloped to drain water away from a build- ing should be replaced. Inspect paving for cracks, broken sec- tions, high areas, low areas that trap water, and tripping hazards. Paved areas that are made of concrete and are in poor condi- tion may have to be replaced. Concrete cannot be repaired by resurfacing with a thin layer of more concrete. Concrete repairs in climates where freez- ing occurs should be no less than three inches thick. Where there is no freezing weather, repairs that are two inches thick may be used. Cracks in concrete should be cut open and sealed with a flexible sealant compound, which will extend its service life albeit not improve its appearance. Where there is a difference in eleva- tion in a walk or drive that cre- ates a tripping hazard, the higher portion of concrete may be ground do wn to the level of the lower portion, although the grinding will change the appearance of the concrete. Sunken areas of concrete pav- ing result from failure of the subbase. For sidewalks it may be possible to lift up sections of the paving between con- struction joints, add to and
Residential Inspection 7 compact the subbase to the proper elevation, and replace the paving sections. Failed or sunken areas of asphalt drives and walks usual- ly should be resurfaced or replaced. Sealing asphalt pav- ing extends its life. Examine the paving to determine when sealing is needed. Check as- phalt drives and walks for low areas that hold water and freeze in cold climates. Low areas in asphalt paving can be brought to level with an as- phalt overlay. Brick or stone patio paving should be set either on a con- crete slab in a mortar bed with mortar joints or in a sand bed that is laid on earth or on a concrete slab. Mortar joints can be tuck pointed and loose bricks or stones can be reset in a new mortar bed. Pavers set in sand can be taken up easily, sand added or removed, and the pavers replaced. When considering the repair or replacement of such site ele- ments, pay particular attention to existing property lines and easements. The maintenance, repair, and replacement of sidewalks, drive aprons, and curb cuts at the street may be the responsi- bility of the local jurisdiction. Check the property’s deed or consult local authorities. � S t a i r s . Inspect the condition of exterior stairs and railings using the current building code as a guide. Every stair with more than three steps should have a handrail located 34 to 38 inches (865 to 965 mm) above the edges of the stair tread. Shake all rail- ings vigorously to check their stability and inspect their fas- tenings. Stairs that are more than 30 inches (760 mm) above the adjacent grade and walks located more than 30 inches (760 mm) above the grade immediately below should have guards not less than 36 inches (915 mm) high and intermediate rails that will not allow the passage of a sphere 4 inches (100 mm) in diameter. Check wooden steps for proper support and strength and for rot and insect infestation. Inspect steel stairs for rust, strength, and attach- ment. Deteriorated stairs should be repaired or re- placed. Stair treads should be as level as possible without holding water. It is preferable that stairs in walks on site that are accessible to the general public have at least three ris- ers. Stair riser heights and tread depths should be, respectively, uniform. � Retaining walls. Inspect the construction and condition of retaining walls. Retaining walls more than two feet in height should be backed with drain- age material, such as gravel. There should be drains at the bottom of the drainage materi- al. The drains should discharge water either at the end of the wall or through pipes set in the wall itself. These drains and the drainage material behind the wall relieve the pressure of ground water on the wall. If possible, weep holes and related drains should be exam- ined closely following a reason- ably heavy rain to make sure they are working properly. If they are not discharging water, the drains should be cleaned out and observed again in the next rain. Failure to drain should be remedied by excavat- ing behind the wall, replacing the drainage material and dam- aged drainage piping, and backfilling. In all but the driest climates, improper drainage of water from behind a retaining wall can cause the wall to fail. Check for bowing (vertical bulges), sweeping (horizontal bulges), and cracking in retain- ing walls that can be caused by water pressure. Bulging can also be a result of inadequate strength to resist the load of the earth behind the wall. Bowing and sweeping failures may be correctable if found early enough and if the cause is poor drainage. Check for other failures of retaining walls. Failure by over- turning (leaning from the top) or sliding may be caused by inadequate wall strength. In addition, water behind a wall can create moist bearing, espe- cially in clay soils, and con- tribute to sliding. Retaining walls also fail due to settling and heaving. The former occurs whenever filled earth below the wall compacts soon after the wall is built, or when wet earth caused by poor drainage dries out and soil consolidates at any time in a wall’s service life. Poor drain- age contributes to failure in cold climates by creating
Residential Inspection8 The outward movement of the upper part of this retaining wall can be halted only by structural reinforcement. Simply patching the crack will not solve the problem. Failing retaining walls more than two feet in height should be inspected by a structural e n g i n e e r . � Buried oil tanks. Buried fer- rous metal oil tanks are com- mon on older properties that have buildings or domestic water heated by oil. The pres- ence of a buried oil tank usual- ly can be determined by find- ing the fill pipe cover on the ground and the vent pipe that extends above ground to a height of at least four feet. Abandoned and very old buried ferrous metal oil tanks are an environmental hazard. If such a buried tank is located on the property, the soil around it should be tested by a qualified environmental engi- neer for the presence of oil seepage. If leaking has oc- curred, the tank and all conta- minated soil around it must be removed. If leaking has not occurred, it may still be a potential problem. Even if a tank is empty, it still may have residual oil in the bottom that is a pollutant. Strong consider- ation should be given to re- moving the tank or filling it with an approved inert materi- al after pumping out any old residual oil. � Aerials. On-site installations of aerial masts either from the ground or mounted to a tree or building should be assessed for structural stability, espe- cially in high wind areas. heaving from frozen ground. Both overturning and sliding may be stabilized and some- times corrected if the amount of movement is not extreme. Settling may be corrected on small, low walls of concrete or masonry, and heaving may be controlled by proper drainage. Significant failure of any kind usually requires rebuilding or replacing all or part of a wall.
Residential Inspection 9 1.3 Outbuildings Examine detached garages, storage sheds, and other out- buildings for their condition in the same way that the primary building is inspected. Check each outbuilding’s water shedding capability and the adequacy of its foundations. On the interior, look for water staining on the roof or walls. Wood frame structures should be thoroughly inspected for rot and insect infestation. Check also that all doors function properly and that doors and win- dows provide adequate weather protection and security for the building. Make sure that small outbuildings have sufficient structural strength to sustain the applicable wind loads or seismic forces. If the site is in a hurricane or high-wind region, check all out- buildings for their ability to resist a storm without coming apart and becoming windborne debris. Consider consulting an engineer. 1.4 Yards and Courts In urban areas, two or more dwelling units may share a yard or court to provide light and ven- tilation to interior rooms. The adequacy of the light provided is a function of the dimensions of the yard or court, as well as the color of surrounding walls. Check these characteristics, as well as zoning and building and housing code requirements pertaining to light, ventilation, and privacy screening for yards and courts. Such requirements may affect the reuse of the property and their implications should be under- stood before the property is altered or purchased. 1.5 Flood Regions The Federal Emergency Manage- ment Agency and the National Flood Insurance Program have established and defined five major flood-risk zones and creat- ed special flood resistance re- quirements for each. Improperly designed grading and drainage may aggravate flood hazards to buildings and cause runoff, soil erosion, and sedimen- tation in the zones of lower flood risk, the Interflood Zone, and the Non-Regulated Flood Plain. In these locations, local agencies may regulate building elevations above street or sewer levels. In the next higher risk zones, the Special Flood Hazard Areas and the Non-Velocity Coastal Flood Areas (both Zone A), the elevation of the lowest floor and its struc- tural members above the base flood elevation is required. In the zone of highest flood risk, the Coastal High Hazard Areas (Velocity Zone, Zone V), addition- al structural requirements apply. Check with local authorities to determine if the site is in a flood- risk zone. If it is, check with local building officials. Higher stan- dards than those set by national agencies have been adopted by many communities.
Residential Inspection10 2 Building Exterior After the site inspection has been completed, systematically inspect the building’s exterior for its con- dition and weathertightness. Begin either at the foundation and work up or begin at the roof and work down. Examine the quality and condition of all exteri- or materials and look for patterns of damage or deterioration that should be further investigated during the interior inspection. Determine the building’s architec- tural style and note what should be done to maintain or restore its integrity and character. See Chapter 4 for assessing structural components of the building. In regions of medium to high seismic activity, buildings with irregular shapes (in either plan or elevation) may be especially vul- nerable to earthquakes. Examine the building for such irregulari- ties, and if present, consider con- sulting a structural engineer. In hurricane regions, examine screen and jalousie enclosures, carports, awnings, canopies, porch roofs, and roof overhangs to determine their condition and the stability of their fastenings. Then examine the following four critical areas of the exterior to determine their condition and strength: roofs, windows, doors, and garage doors. In locations where wildfires can occur, some jurisdictions have restrictions on the use of flamma- ble exterior materials. Check with the local building official or the fire marshal, or both, for detailed information. Additional information on the evaluation and treatment of his- toric building exteriors is present- ed in the Secretary of the Inter- ior’s Standards for Rehabilitation, available full text online at http://www2.cr.nps.gov/tps. When universal design is a part of a rehabilitation, consult HUD pub- lication Residential Remodeling and Universal Design for detailed information about entrances, doors, and decks. 2.1 Foundation Walls and Piers Foundation walls and piers in small residential buildings are usually made of masonry and should be inspected for cracking, deterioration, moisture penetra- tion, and structural adequacy. See Sections 4.3 and 4.4. Wood posts and columns and concrete foun- dations and piers should be inspected in accordance with Sections 4.7 and 4.9. 2.2 Exterior Wall Cladding Exterior walls above the founda- tion may be covered with a vari- ety of materials, including wood siding or its aluminum and vinyl substitutes, wood or asbestos cement shingles, plywood with and without a medium density (plastic) overlay, stucco, brick or stone masonry, and an exterior insulation and finish system. These materials are designed to serve as a weathertight, decora- tive skin and, in warm climates should be light in color to reduce heat absorption. Inspect exterior claddings as follows: � Exterior wood elements. Inspect all painted surfaces for peeling, blistering, and check- ing. Paint-related problems may be due to vapor pressure beneath the paint, improper paint application, or excessive paint buildup. Corrective mea- sures for these problems will vary from the installation of moisture vents to complete paint removal. Mildew stains on painted surfaces do not hurt the wood and may be cleaned with a mildew remover. All wood elements should be checked for fungal and insect infestation at exposed horizontal surfaces and exteri- or corner joints, as specified for wood structural compo- nents in Section 4.7. Check the distance between the bottom of wood elements and grade. In locations that have little or no snow, the dis- tance should be no less than six inches. In locations with significant, lasting snow, the bottom of wood elements should be no less than six inches above the average snow depth. � Aluminum and vinyl siding. Aluminum and vinyl siding may cover up decayed or insect-infested wood but otherwise are generally low maintenance materials. Check for loose, bent, cracked, or
Residential Inspection 11 A second layer of shingles has filled the for- mer gap between roof and zsiding, causing the siding to deteriorate. Shingles are cupped and beginning to fail as well. The stucco is beginning to erode on this structure due to a poor roof drainage detail. A longer scupper would solve this problem. broken pieces. Inspect all caulked joints, particularly around window and door trim. Many communities require aluminum siding to be electrically grounded; check for such grounding. � Asbestos cement shingles. Like aluminum and vinyl sid- ing, asbestos cement shingles may cover decayed or insect- infested wood. Check for loose, cracked, or broken pieces and inspect around all window and door trim for signs of deterioration. � Stucco. Check stucco for cracks, crumbling sections, and areas of water infiltration. Old and weathered cracks may be caused by the material’s initial shrinkage or by earlier building settlement. New, sharp cracks may indicate movement behind the walls that should be investigated. Refer to Section 4.5 for prob- lems with masonry walls. It is difficult to match the color of stucco repairs to the original stucco, so plan to repaint sur- rounding stucco work where sections are mended.
Residential Inspection12 � Brick or stone veneers. Inspect veneers for cracking, mortar deterioration, and spalling. Refer to Sections 4.3 and 4.5 for the inspection of above-ground masonry walls. � Exterior insulation and finish systems (EIFS). EIFS, also known as synthetic stucco, has been in widespread residential use since the early 1990s. It generally consists of the follow- ing product layers (moving out- ward): insulation board, mesh and base coat layer, finish coat, and sealant and flashing. EIFS was originally designed as a nondraining water and moisture barrier system. A drainage-type EIFS that allows water and moisture to pene- trate the surface and then drain away has been developed more recently. Most existing EIFS in residential applications is installed over wood framing and is of the nondraining type. Water leakage and consequent rotting of the wood framing have become serious problems in many installations, especial- ly at wall openings such as windows and doors, where inadequate flashing details can allow water seepage into the wall interior. Manufacturers of EIFS differ in their installation methods. Inspecting existing EIFS is diffi- cult because it is a proprietary product and there are no stan- dard construction details . Use a trained specialist to check for concealed water damage and rot. Exterior walls of older buildings usually contain no thermal insula- tion. Examine behind the cladding when possible to determine the presence of insulation, if any, and assess the potential for insulating the exterior walls. Where mildew and mold are evi- dent on exterior cladding or where interior walls are damp, there is the possibility that con- densation is occurring in the walls. Moisture problems general- ly occur in cold weather when outside temperatures and vapor pressures are low and there are a number of water vapor sources within the building. The presence of moisture may be a result of an improperly installed or failed vapor barrier, or no vapor barrier at all. If condensation is suspect- ed, an analysis of the wall sec- tion(s) in question should be made. This analysis will provide the information necessary to make the needed repairs. 2.3 Windows and Doors Windows and doors are the most complex elements of the build- ing’s exterior and should be inspected from the outside as follows: � Exterior doors should be examined for their condition, overall operation and fit, and for the functionality of their hardware. Door types include hinged, single and double doors of wood, steel, alu- minum, and plastic with and without glazing. Check wood and plastic doors that are not protected from the weather. These doors should be rated for exterior use. In warm climates, jalousie doors may also be in use. Check these doors to make sure the louvers close tightly and in uni- son for weathertightness. Some buildings use glass framed doors of fixed and operable panels that have wood, vinyl-covered wood, and aluminum frames. Check the track of these sliding doors for dents, breaks, and straight- ness. Check the glides of oper- able panels for wear and check the sealing of fixed panels for weathertightness. Note the degree of physical security offered by doors and their locksets and pay special atten- tion to pairs of hinged and sliding doors. Doors also should be inspected for the exterior con- dition of their frames and sills. Check doors that are not pro- tected from the weather for the presence of essential flashing at the head. Glazing on exterior doors should be examined as de- scribed in the following section on windows. The interior condi- tion and hardware of exterior doors will be examined during the interior inspection. In hurricane regions, check exterior doors, and especially double doors, for the presence of dead-bolt locks with a throw length of no less than one inch. � Windows should be inspected for the exterior condition of their frames, sills and sashes, and for overall operation and
Residential Inspection 13 The glazing putty in this window is deteriorated in some locations. Repairs will be time consuming. fit. The interior condition and hardware of windows will be examined during the interior inspection. There are eight types of windows and six types of frame material in general use in residential buildings. Frame materials are plastic, aluminum, steel, wood, plastic- clad wood, and metal-clad (steel or aluminum) wood. Window types are double hung, single hung, casement, hori- zontal sliding, projected out or awning, projected in, and fixed. In addition to these, there are jalousies: glass louvers on an aluminum or steel frame. The glazing compound or putty around glass panels in older sashes should be exam- ined especially carefully since this is often the most vulnera- ble part of the window and its repair is time consuming. Examine glazing tapes or strips around glass panels in steel or aluminum sashes for signs of deterioration such as hardened sealant or poor fit. Check metal sashes for weep holes that have been blocked by paint, sealant, or dirt. Weep holes a re usually easy to clean. Check windows that are not protected from the weather for the presence of essential flash- ing at the head. For windows close to the ground or easily accessible from flat roofs, note the degree of physical security pro- vided by the windows and their locks. In hurricane regions, check all windows and glass doors that are not protected by shut- ters to determine if they have been tested for impact resis- tance to windborne debris. If they have not been so tested, determine if plywood panels can be installed for their pro- tection at the time of a hurri- cane warning. � Weather stripping. Window and door weather stripping is generally of three types: metal, foam plastic, or plastic strip- ping. Check each type for fit. Check metal for dents, bends, and straightness. Check foam plastic for resiliency and plas- tic stripping for brittleness and cracks. Make sure the weather stripping is securely held in place.
Residential Inspection14 � Shutters. Window shutters are generally of two types: decora- tive and functional. Decorative shutters are fixed to the exteri- or wall on either side of a win- dow. Check the shutter’s condi- tion and its mounting to the wall. Functional shutters are operable and can be used to close off a window. Assess the adequacy of these shutters for their purpose: privacy, light control, security, or protection against bad weather. Check their operation and observe their condition and fit. Shutters close to the ground can be examined from the ground. Shutters out of reach from the ground should be examined during the interior inspection when windows are examined. In hurricane regions, check shutters to see if the shutter manufacturer has certified them for hurricane use. If they provide protection to windows and glass doors, determine if they have been tested for impact resistance to windborne debris. � Awnings. Windows and glazed exterior doors sometimes have awnings over them, usually for sun control, but sometimes for decoration or protection from the weather. Awnings are usu- ally made of metal, plastic, or fabric on a metal or plastic frame. Some are fixed in place, while others are operable and can be folded up against the exterior wall. Check the condi- tion of awnings. Assess the adequacy of the attachment to the exterior wall. Fold up and unfold operable awnings and note the ease of operation. If an awning is used for sun con- trol, assess its effectiveness and its effect on energy con- servation. � Storm windows and doors should be examined for opera- tion, weathertightness, overall condition, and fit. Check the condition of screen and glass inserts; if they are in storage, locate, count, and inspect them. Check also to determine if the weep holes have been blocked by paint, sealant, dirt, or other substances. Opening weep holes is usually easy to do. � Garage doors should be exam- ined for operation, weather- tightness, overall condition, and fit. Doors without motors should be manually opened and closed. Doors with motors should be operated using each of the operators on the system (key lock switch or combina- tion lock key pad where con- trol must be accessible on the exterior, remote electrical switch, radio signal switch, or photoelectric control switch). Check the operation for smoothness, quietness, time of operation, and safety. Check for the presence and proper operation of the door safety reversing device. Observe exposed parts of the installa- tion for loose connections, rust, and bent or damaged pieces. Garage doors are made of wood, hardboard on a wood frame, steel, glass fiber on a steel frame, glass fiber, and aluminum. All come with glazed panes in a wide variety of styles. Check wood and hardboard for rot and water damage, check hardboard for cracking and splitting, check steel for rust, check glass fiber for ultraviolet light deteriora- tion, and check aluminum for dents. In hurricane regions, exam- ine garage doors, especially single doors on two-car gar- ages, to determine if the assembly (door and track) has been tested for hurricane wind loads or has been reinforced. � Safety Glazing. G l a z e d entrance doors including storm doors, sliding glass patio doors, and glazing immediately adja- cent to these doors, but exclud- ing jalousie doors, should be fully tempered, wire, or lami- nated glass or an approved plastic material. In addition, glazing adjacent to any surface normally used for walking must be safety glazing. Safety glazing is a building code requirement that applies to both new and replacement glazing. 2.4 Decks, Porches, and Balconies Decks, porches, and balconies are exposed to the elements to a greater extent than most other parts of a building and are there- fore more susceptible to deterio- ration. Inspect for the following: � Condition. Examine all porch, deck, and balcony supports for signs of loose or deteriorated
Residential Inspection 15 components. See Section 4.7 for the inspection of wood structural components. Mas- onry or concrete piers should be plumb and stable; check them in accordance with Sec- tion 4.4. Make sure that struc- tural connections to the build- ing are secure and protected against corrosion or decay. Examine porch floors for signs of deflection and deterio- ration. Where the porch floor or deck is close to the level of the interior floor, look for signs of water infiltration at the door sill and check for a positive pitch of the porch floor or deck away from the exterior wall. � Exterior railings and stairs. Inspect the condition of all exterior stairs and railings. Every stair with more than The joint between the two parts of this support creates a hinge that can affect the roof three steps should have a structure. handrail located 34 to 38 inch- es (865 to 965 mm) above the edges of the stair tread. Shake all railings vigorously to check their stability, and inspect their fastenings. Most codes for new construction require that porches, balconies, and decks located more than 30 inches (760 mm) above the ground have guards not less than 36 inches (915 mm) high and intermediate rails that will not allow the passage of a sphere 4 inches (100 mm) in diameter. Check wooden steps for proper support and strength and for rot and insect infestation. Inspect steel stairs for rust, strength, and attach- ment. Deteriorated stairs A rotted corner post on a screened porch. In this case, the rotted section of the post and a should be repaired or r e p l a c e d . small section of the floor beneath it were removed and replaced with sound wood.
Residential Inspection16 Stair treads should be as level as possible without holding water. Stair riser heights and tread depths should be, respec- tively, uniform. 2.5 Pitched Roof Coverings Pitched or steep sloped roofs are best inspected when direct access is gained to all their sur- faces. Use binoculars to inspect roofs that are inaccessible or that cannot be walked on. Look for deteriorated or loose flash- ing, signs of damage to the roof covering, and valleys and gutters clogged with debris. Carefully examine exterior walls and trim for deterioration beneath the eaves of pitched roofs that have no overhang or gutters. There are four categories of pitched roof covering materials and their condition should be checked as follows: � Asphalt shingles. Asphalt or “composition” shingles have a service life of about 20 years for the first layer and about 15 years for a second layer added over the first layer, depending on their weight, quality, and exposure. When they begin to lose their granular coveri ng and start to curl they should be replaced. No more than two layers of asphalt shingles should normally be in place at any one time. If a second layer of asphalt shingles has been applied, check to see if all the flashing materials (galvanized steel, aluminum, rubber) in the first layer were removed and Vulnerable roof areas replaced with new flashing at the second layer. Check the roof slope. A slope of 4 in 12 or steeper is referred to as normal. A slope of between 3 in 12 and 4 in 12 is referred to as low. No asphalt shingle roof should be less steep than 3 in 12. If the roof has a normal slope, check the underlayment if pos- sible. It should be at least a single layer of 15-pound (6.8 kg) asphalt saturated felt. Low- slope roofs should have at least two such felt layers. If ice dam flashing at overhanging eaves is needed (see Section 2.8) or present, make sure it extends three feet beyond the plane of the interior face of the exterior wall below for a low- slope roof and two feet for a normal-slope roof. � Wood shingles or shakes. This type of covering has a normal life expectancy of 25 to 30 years in climates that are not excessively hot and humid, but durability varies according to wood species, thickness, the slope of the roof, whether shingles are made of heart- wood, and whether they have been periodically treated with preservative. Shakes are hand-
Residential Inspection 17 This slate roof should be carefully investigated since it has a makeshift repair. Other problems include the chimney, which is too low, and the vent pipe, which is too narrow. split on at least one face and either tapered or straight. Shingles are sawn and tapered. Check the roof slope. The min- imum slope for wood shingles is 3 in 12 and the minimum slope for shakes is 4 in 12. As wood shingles and shakes age, they dry, crack, and curl. In damp locations they rot. Replace them when more than one-third show signs of deterio- ration. These materials are easi- ly broken. They should not be walked on during the inspec- tion. If the roof is historic or relatively complex, consult a wood roofing specialist. � Metal roofing. Metal can last 50 years or more if properly painted or otherwise main- tained. Metal roofs may be made of galvanized iron or steel, aluminum, copper, or lead; each material has its own unique wearing characteristics. Inspect metal roofs for signs of rusting or pitting, corrosion due to galvanic action, and loose, open, or leaking seams and joints. The slope of metal roofing can be from one-half inch per foot (1:24) to very steep. The types of metal, seams, and slope determine the construction details. There are three basic seam types— batten, standing, and flat—as well as flat and formed metal panels. Snow guards are need- ed on steeper slopes and in locations with heavy, long- lasting snow, bracket and pipe snow guards also may be nec- essary. Low-slope metal roofs that are coated with tarlike material are probably patched or have pin holes and cannot be counted on to be leak-free. If the roof is historic or rela- tively complex, consult a metal roof specialist.
Residential Inspection18 � Slate, clay tile, and asbestos cement shingles. These roof coverings are extremely durable and, if of high quality and properly maintained, may last the life of the structure. Check the roof slope. The mini- mum slope for roofs of these materials is 4 in 12. Slate shin- gles should be secured by cop- per nails except in the very dri- est of climates; look at the underside of the roof sheath- ing in the attic or check the nails on broken shingles. Nail heads should be covered with sealant. Nails for tile roofs should be non-corroding. All of these roof coverings are brittle materials and easily broken, and should not be walked on during the inspection. Use binoculars to look for missing, broken, or slipping pieces. Slate is particularly susceptible to breakage by ice or ice dams in the winter, and should therefore be especially well drained. Snow guards are need- ed on steeper slopes, and in locations with heavy, long- lasting snow, snow guards also may be necessary. Moss will sometimes grow on asbestos cement shingles; it should be removed with a cleaner to pre- vent capillary water leaks. Slate, clay tile, and asbestos shingles should be repaired or replaced by a qualified roofer. Examine the underside of the roof later during the interior i n s p e c t i o n . 2.6 Low-Slope Roof Coverings A roof that is nearly level or slightly pitched is called a low- slope roof. No roof should be The built-up roof and flashings in this photograph are in poor condition. Patching may work temporarily, but the roof and flashings should be replaced.
Residential Inspection 19 dead level flat; it must have at least a slight slope to drain. Problems in low-slope roofs are common and more difficult to diagnose than pitched roof prob- lems because the path of water leakage through flat roofs is often quite hard to trace. Look for signs of ponded water due to either improper drainage or sagging of the roof deck. If the cause is a sagging deck, it should be struc- turally corrected before it wors- ens. Low-slope roofs are expensive to repair, so extra care should be taken in their examination. Inspect the flashing and joints around all roof penetrations, including drains, soil stacks, chimneys, skylights, hatchways, antenna mountings, and other roof-mounted elements. Note if metal flashings need painting or reanchoring and if asphaltic or rubber flashings are brittle or cracked. Check parapet wall caps and flashing for signs of damage due to wall movement. Examine all portions of the roof covering. Look for signs of previ- ous repairs that may indicate trouble spots. There are four cate- gories of low-slope roof covering materials and they should be inspected as follows: � Built-up roofing. Built-up roofs are composed of several layers of roofing felt lapped and cemented together with bitumi- nous material and protected by a thin layer of gravel or crushed stone. Built-up roofs vary great- ly in life span, but those used in residential buildings usually last about 20 years, depending on their quality, exposure, num- ber of plies, and the adequacy of their drainage. Because built- up roofs are composed of sev- eral layers, they can contain moisture in the form of water or water vapor between layers. Moisture not only accelerates deterioration, it can also leak into a building. Look for crack- ing, blistering, alligatoring, and wrinkling, all of which may indi- cate the need for roof replace- ment or repair. Consult an experienced roofer for a further evaluation if you are in doubt. Test: An infrared or nuclear scanner can be used to detect areas of mois- ture in built-up roofs. Once located, these areas can be more thoroughly checked with a moisture meter or a nuclear meter. Such tests must be performed by a trained roofing inspector and are normally used to determine areas that need replace - ment on very large roofs. � Single-ply membrane roofing. A single-ply mem- brane roof consists of plastic, modified bitumen, and synthet- ic rubber sheeting that is laid over the roof deck, usually in a single ply and often with a top coating to protect it from ultra- violet light degradation. Single- ply roofs are installed in three basic ways: fully adhered, mechanically attached, and loose laid with ballast. If prop- erly installed and properly maintained, a single-ply roof should last 20 years. Roof pen- etrations and seams are the most vulnerable parts of sin- gle-ply membrane roofing and should be carefully checked. The material is also susceptible to ult raviolet light deteriora- tion. A protective coating can be used to protect it, but the coating should be reapplied periodically. Check carefully for surface degradation on an unprotected roof and fading of the coating on a protected roof. Check also for signs of water ponding and poor drainage. � Roll roofing. Roll roofing con- sists of an asphalt-saturated, granule-covered roofing felt that is laid over the roof deck. It can only provide single- or two-ply coverage. Inspect roll roofing for cracking, blistering, surface erosion, and torn sec- tions. Seams are the most vul- nerable part of roll roofing, and should be carefully checked for separation and lifting. Also check for signs of water pond- ing and poor drainage. � Metal roofing. See Section 2.5. The underside of the low-slope roof should be examined during the interior inspection. If it is inaccessible, look for signs of water leakage on interior ceilings and walls. 2.7 Skylights From the exterior, check all sky- lights for cracked or broken glaz- ing material, adequate flashing, and rusted or decayed frames. Skylights will be checked again during the interior inspection. Leaking skylights are common. Replacement skylights must com- ply with the building code.
Residential Inspection20 The gutters on this low-slope roof are deteriorating largely because of the accumulated detritus that they hold. They should be inspected and cleaned periodically. 2.8 Gutters and Downspouts Buildings with pitched roofs can have a variety of drainage sys- tems. With a sufficient overhang, water can drain directly to the ground without being intercepted at the roof edge. See Section 1.1. Usually, pitched roofs end in gut- ters that are drained by down- spouts. Low-slope roof drainage is accom- plished in one of three ways: without gutters or downspouts, with gutters and downspouts, or by downspouts that go down through a building’s interior. Drainage without gutters and downspouts can damage the exte- rior wall with overflow. If the roof has no gutters and downspouts or interior downspouts, carefully examine the exterior walls for signs of water damage. Gutter and downspout materials are usually galvanized steel, alu- minum, copper, or plastic. � Gutters should have a mini- mum ratio of gutter depth to width of 3 to 4; the front edge should be one-half inch (13 mm) lower than the back edge; and four inches is considered the minimum width except on the roofs of canopies and small porches. Make cer- tain all gutters are clean and slope uniformly, without low areas, to downspouts. If there is a screen or similar device to prevent anything but water from flowing into the gutter, check its condition, fit, and position, to be sure water real- ly can enter the gutter. Check gutters without screens or sim- ilar devices to be sure that bas- ket strainers are installed at each downspout. Check the physical and functional
Residential Inspection 21 Eave protection against ice dams Dormer gutters improperly discharging onto the roof condition of all gutters. Joints should be soldered or sealed with mastic. Also examine the placement of gutters: the steeper the roof pitch, the lower the gutter placement. On roofs with lower slopes make sure gutters are placed close to the roof’s surface. Hangers should be placed no more than three feet apart. Where ice and snow are long lasting, hangers should be placed no more than 18 inches (460 mm) apart. Wherever a gutter is exposed, check the strength of its fas- tening to the roof fascia or building exterior. Rusted fas- teners and missing hangers should be replaced. � Ice dams can form on pitched roof overhangs in cold climates subject to prolonged periods of freezing weather, especially those climates with a daily average January temperature of 30 ºF (-1 º