Residential Rehabilitation Inspection Guide

by HUD USER

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF HOUSING AND URBAN DEVELOPMENT
R e s i d e n t i a l
Rehabilitation Inspection Guide
U.S. Department of Housing
and Urban Development
Office of Policy Development
and Research

Residential Inspection
Residential
Rehabilitation Inspection Guideline
Prepared for the
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development
Office of Policy Development and Research
by the National Institute of Building Sciences, Washington, D.C.
under Contract C-OPC-21204
February 2000

Residential Inspection
PATH (Partnership for Advancing Technology in Housing) is
a new private/public effort to develop, demonstrate, and gain
widespread acceptance for the “Next Generation” of American
housing. Through the use of new and innovative technologies the
goal of PATH is to improve the quality, durability, environmental
efficiency, and affordability of tomorrow's houses.
Initiated at the request of the White House, PATH is managed
and supported by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development. In addition, all Federal Agencies that engage in
housing research and technology development are PATH part-
ners, including the Department of Energy, the Department of
Commerce, the Environmental Protection Agency, and the
Federal Emergency Management Agency. State and local govern-
ments and other participants in the public sector also are part-
ners in PATH. Product manufacturers, home builders, insurance
companies, and lenders represent private industry in the PATH
partnership.
To learn more, please contact: PATH, Suite B133, 451 Seventh
Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20410; fax 202-708-4250; e-mail
pathnet@pathnet.org.
The statements and conclusions contained in this publication are those
of the National Institute of Building Sciences and do not necessarily
reflect the view of the Department of Housing and Urban Development.
The Institute has made every effort to verify the accuracy and appropri-
ateness of the publication's content. However, no guarantee of the accu-
racy or completeness of the information or acceptability for compliance
with any industry standard or mandatory requirement of any code, law,
or regulation is either offered or implied.

Residential Inspection iii
Foreword
An important factor in making the best use of our nation’s housing
stock is accurately assessing the condition, safety, usefulness, and
rehabilitation potential of older residential buildings. The
Residential Rehabilitation Inspection Guide provides step-by-step
technical information for evaluating a residential building’s site,
exterior, interior, and structural, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC
systems.
First published by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development in 1984 as the Guideline on Residential Building
Systems Inspection, the guideline has found widespread use and
acceptance among architects, engineers, builders, realtors, and
preservationists.
Now, for the Partnership for Advancing Technology in Housing
(PATH) program, the guideline has been updated and expanded to
include current assessment techniques and standards, information
about additional building materials, and a broader coverage of haz-
ardous substances and the effects of earthquakes, wind, and floods.
HUD is pleased to reissue this important and time-tested publica-
tion, knowing that it will prove a valuable resource for preserving
and reusing our nation’s building stock.
Susan M. Wachter
Assistant Secretary for Policy Development and Research

Residential Inspectioniv

Residential Inspection v
Acknowledgments
The National Institute of Building Sciences (NIBS) produced the
original edition of this guideline for the U.S. Department of Housing
and Urban Development in 1984. It was written by William Brenner of
Building Technology, Incorporated, with supplementary material and
photographs provided by Richard Stephan, Ken Frank, and Gerard
Diaz of the University Research Corporation. Technical reviewers
were George Schoonover, Eugene Davidson, Joseph Wintz, Richard
Ortega, Nick Gianopulos, Robert Santucci, James Wolf, and Thomas
Fean.
This revised edition of the guideline was produced in 1999 by NIBS
and updated and expanded by Thomas Ware and David Hattis of
Building Technology, Incorporated. Technical reviewers were William
Asdal, Neal FitzSimons, Wade Elrod, Hal Williamson, Paul Beers, John
Bouman, Raymond Jones, Dan Kluckhuhn, Joe Sherman, William
Freeborne, and Robert Kapsch. The graphic designer was Marcia
Axtmann Smith. Selected illustrations are excerpted with permission
from The Illustrated Home by Carson Dunlop & Associates (800-268-
7070) and the material in Appendix C is used with the permission
of the National Association of Homebuilders. William Brenner direct-
ed the project for NIBS and Nelson Carbonell was the HUD project
manager.

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Residential Inspection vii
Table of Contents
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .iii
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .v
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
1—Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
1.1 Drainage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
1.2 Site Improvements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
1.3 Outbuildings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
1.4 Yards and Courts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
1.5 Flood Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
2—Building Exterior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
2.1 Foundation Walls and Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
2.2 Exterior Wall Cladding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
2.3 Windows and Doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
2.4 Decks, Porches, and Balconies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
2.5 Pitched Roof Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
2.6 Low-Slope Roof Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
2.7 Skylights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
2.8 Gutters and Downspouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
2.9 Chimneys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
2.10 Parapets and Gables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
2.11 Lightning Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
3—Building Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
3.1 Basement or Crawl Space . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
3.2 Interior Spaces, General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
3.3 Bathrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
3.4 Kitchens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
3.5 Storage Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
3.6 Stairs and Hallways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
3.7 Laundries and Utility Rooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
3.8 Fireplaces and Flues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
3.9 Attics and Roof Truss and Joist Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
3.10 Whole-Building Thermal Efficiency Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
3.11 Sound Transmission Control Between Dwelling Units . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
3.12 Asbestos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Residential Inspectionviii
3.13 Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
3.14 Radon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
3.15 Tornado Safe Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
4—Structural System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
4.1 Seismic Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
4.2 Wind Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
4.3 Masonry, General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
4.4 Masonry Foundations and Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
4.5 Above-Ground Masonry Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
4.6 Chimneys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
4.7 Wood Structural Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
4.8 Iron and Steel Structural Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
4.9 Concrete Structural Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
5—Electrical System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
5.1 Service Entry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
5.2 Main Panelboard (Service Equipment) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
5.3 Branch Circuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
6—Plumbing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
6.1 Water Service Entry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
6.2 Interior Water Distribution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
6.3 Drain, Waste, and Vent Piping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
6.4 Tank Water Heaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
6.5 Tankless Coil Water Heaters (Instantaneous Water Heaters) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
6.6 Water Wells and Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
6.7 Septic Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
6.8 Gas Supply in Seismic Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
7—HVAC System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
7.1 Thermostatic Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
7.2 Fuel-Burning Units, General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84
7.3 Forced Warm Air Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87
7.4 Forced Hot Water (Hydronic) Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
7.5 Steam Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
7.6 Electric Resistance Heating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
7.7 Central Air Conditioning Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
7.8 Central Gas-Absorption Cooling Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
7.9 Heat Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

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7.10 Evaporative Cooling Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
7.11 Humidifiers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
7.12 Unit (Window) Air Conditioners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
7.13 Whole House and Attic Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Appendix A—The Effects of Fire on Structural Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-1
Appendix B—Wood-Inhabiting Organisms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-1
Appendix C— Life Expectancy of Housing Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-1
Appendix D—References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-1
Appendix E—Inspection Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-1
List of Figures
4.1 Assessing Structural Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
5.1 Assessing Electrical Service Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
6.1 Assessing Water Supply Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
6.2 Assessing DWV Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
6.3 Assessing Hot Water Heater Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
6.4 Assessing Well Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
6.5 Assessing Septic Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
7.1 Assessing Heating and Cooling Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83

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Residential Inspection 1
Residential Inspection Guideline
Introduction
The Residential Inspection Guide-
l i n e is designed to help evaluate
the rehabilitation potential of
small residential buildings and
structures. It may be used by
contractors, builders, realtors,
home inspectors, and others with
a basic knowledge of building
c o n s t r u c t i o n .
When used in conjunction with
the local building code, the guide-
line can assist in identifying un-
safe or hazardous conditions and
uncovering functional deficiencies
that should be corrected. It does
not establish rehabilitation stan-
dards or address construction,
operation, and maintenance costs.
Preparing
for the Inspection
Before visiting the site, check with
the local jurisdiction to determine:
� the site’s zoning, setback,
height, and building coverage
requirements, grandfathered
uses and conditions, proffers,
liens, and applicable fire
regulations.
� if the site is in a seismic zone.
� if the site is in a hurricane or
high tornado-risk region.
� if the site is in a flood plain or
other flood-risk zone.
� if there is any record of
hazards in the soil or water on
or near the site.
Conducting the
On-Site Inspection
Once at the site, conduct a brief
walk-through of the site and the
building. Note the property’s
overall appearance and condition.
If it appears to have been well
maintained, it is far less likely to
have serious problems. Note the
building’s style and period and
try to determine when it was
built. Next, examine the quality of
the building’s design and con-
struction and that of its neighbor-
hood. There is no substitute for
good design and sound, durable
construction. Finally, assess the
b u i l d i n g ’ s functional layout. Does
the building “work” or will it have
to be significantly altered to make
it usable and marketable?
Look for signs of dampness and
water damage. Water is usually a
building’s biggest enemy and a
dry building will not have prob-
lems with wood decay, subter-
ranean termites, or rusted and
corroded equipment.
After completing the initial walk-
through, begin the formal inspec-
tion process:
� Inspect the site, building exte-
rior, and building interior i n
accordance with Chapters 1, 2,
and 3. Use the tests described
in Chapters 2 and 3 when
appropriate. Record pertinent
information as needed.
� Inspect the structural, electri-
cal, plumbing, and HVAC sys-
tems in accordance with Chap-
ters 4, 5, 6, and 7. Use the tests
described in each chapter as
necessary. Record the size,
capacity, and other relevant
information about each system
or component as needed.
While most inspections consist of
observing, measuring, and testing
building elements that are ex-
posed to view, there are condi-
tions that require the removal of
some part of the building to ob-
serve, measure, or test otherwise
concealed construction. Such in-
trusive inspections require some
demolition and should be per-
formed only with the permission
of the owner and by experienced,
qualified mechanics.
The building inspection forms in
Appendix E may be copied for use
during on-site inspections. Record
general building data and site lay-
outs, elevations, and floor plans
first. This information will form
the basis for later rehabilitation
decisions. Then record the size,
capacity, and condition/needed
repairs information for each
building component. This will
highlight what needs to be
repaired or replaced.
The inspection may be completed
in one visit or over several visits,
depending on the property’s con-
dition, the weather, problems of
access, and the need for testing or
expert help.

Residential Inspection2
More Information
Appendix A provides information
on assessing the effects of fire on
wood, masonry, steel, and con-
crete structural systems. Appendix
B can be used as an aid in the
identification of wood-inhabiting
molds, fungi, and insects. Appen-
dix C lists the average life expect-
ancies of common housing materi-
als, components, and appliances.
Appendix D provides ordering and
Internet access information for the
publications and standards refer-
enced herein as well as a listing of
applicable publications on building
assessment, energy conservation,
and historic preservation.
Use the Secretary of the Interior’s
Standards for Rehabilitation when
dealing with historic properties.
They are available full text online
at http://www2.cr. nps.gov/tps.
When a property is rehabilitated
for resale or when a contractor or
builder is rehabilitating a property
for its owner, consider using the
Residential Construction Perform-
ance Guidelines. These were devel-
oped by the National Association
of Home Builders’ Remodelers
Council, Single Family Small Vol-
ume Builders Committee.
When assessing the tornado risk at
a site, consider using T a k i n g
Shelter from the Storm: Building a
Safe Room Inside Your House,
available from the Federal Emer-
gency Management Agency (FEMA).
When assessing the flood risk at a
site and before undertaking any
applicable rehabilitation mea-
sures, consider using Design Man-
ual for Retrofitting Flood Prone
Residential Structures, available
from the Federal Emergency
Management Agency.
When inspecting a building locat-
ed in a region of high seismic
activity or in a hurricane r e g i o n ,
additional information on vulnera-
bility assessment and retrofit
options can be found in Is Your
Home Protected from Earthquake
D i s a s t e r ? and I s Your Home Pro-
tected from Hurricane Disaster?
Both documents are available
from the Institute for Business and
Home Safety or can be viewed full
text online at http://www.ibhs.org.
For those interested in working
with local officials to make build-
ing codes more amenable to reha-
bilitation work, see the U.S.
Department of Housing and Urban
Development's Nationally Applic-
able Recommended Rehabilitation
P r o v i s i o n s.

Residential Inspection 3
1
Site
Begin the rehabilitation inspec-
tion by thoroughly examining the
property’s drainage, site improve-
ments, and outbuildings. Al-
though their condition may have
a profound impact on the total
costs of the rehabilitation pro-
ject, they are often overlooked or
not fully considered in the initial
building assessment. Tree
removal, the replacement of side-
walks and driveways, and the
repair of outbuildings can add
substantially to rehabilitation
expenses and may make the dif-
ference between a project that is
economically feasible and one
that is not.
Earthquake. Check the slope of
the site. Buildings constructed on
slopes of 20 degrees or more
should be examined by a structur-
al engineer in all seismic regions,
including regions of low seismic
activity. See Section 4.1, Seismic
Resistance.
Wind. If the site is in a hurricane
or high wind region, it should be
examined for loose fences, tree
limbs, landscaping materials such
as gravel and small rocks, and
other objects that could become
windborne debris in a storm. See
Section 4.2, Wind Resistance.
Floods. Five major flood-risk
zones have been established to
define where floods occur, and
special flood resistance require-
ments have been created for each
zone. Check with local authorities.
See Section 1.5, Flood Regions.
Lead. Consider checking for the
presence of lead in the soil, which
can be a hazard to children play-
ing outdoors and can be brought
indoors on shoes. Lead in soil can
come from different sources such
as discarded lead-based paint,
lead-based paint chips near foun-
dations from when exterior walls
were scraped and painted, leaded
gasoline (now banned) on drive-
ways where car repairs were
made, leaded gasoline from car
exhaust, and old trash sites where
lead-bearing items were discard-
ed. Check the site for evidence of
any of these conditions and if
found, consider having the soil
tested for lead content.
Wildfires. In locations where
wildfires can occur, some juris-
dictions have requirements for
hydrant locations and restrictions
on the use of certain building
materials as well as restrictions
on plantings close to a building.
Check with the local building offi-
cial and the fire marshal for such
requirements.
Building Expansion. If a rehabili-
tation project includes expanding
a building or outbuilding, an
assessment of the site for this
work is critical. There is also a
complementary need to examine
zoning regulations to establish
allowable coverage and setbacks.
The use of available land may be
restricted by coverage and set-
back requirements that define the
areas on the site that can be used
for new construction.
Site Restrictions. H o m e o w n e r
association bylaws and deed cov-
enants sometimes include require-
ments that can affect changes or
additions to a building or out-
building. These documents should
be carefully examined to deter-
mine their impact.
Accessibility. When universal
design is a part of a rehabilita-
tion, consult the HUD publication
Residential Remodeling and Uni-
versal Design for detailed infor-
mation about parking, walks, and
patios.
1.1
Drainage
Observe the drainage pattern of
the entire property, as well as
that of adjacent properties. The
ground should slope away from
all sides of the building. Down-
spouts, surface gutters, and
drains should direct water away
from the foundation. Check the
planting beds adjacent to the
foundations. Plantings are often
mounded in a way that traps
water and edging around planting
beds acts like a dam to trap
water. Most problems with mois-
ture in basements are caused by
poor site drainage.
The ground also should slope
away from window wells, outside
basement stairs, and other area-
ways. The bottom of each of
these should be sloped to a drain.
Each drain should have piping
that connects it to a storm water
drainage system, if there is one,
or that drains to either a dis-
charge at a lower grade or into a
sump pit that collects and dis-
perses water away from the build-
ing. Drains and piping should be
open and clear of leaves, earth,
and debris. A garden hose can be

Residential Inspection4
Poor site drainage leads to a variety of problems, in this case a wet basement.
used to test water flow, although
its discharge cannot approximate
storm conditions.
Where a building is situated on a
hillside, it is more difficult to
slope the ground away from the
building on all sides. On the high
ground side of the building, the
slope of the ground toward the
building should be interrupted by
a surface drainage system that
collects and disposes of rainwater
runoff. There are two general
types of surface drainage sys-
tems: an open system consisting
of a swale (often referred to as a
ditch), sometimes with a culvert
at its end to collect and channel
water away, and a closed system
consisting of gutters with catch
basins. Combinations of the two
are often used. The locations and
layout of culverts, gutters, drains,
and catch basins should be such
that if they became blocked and
overflowed no significant damage
will occur and that any resultant
ice conditions will not pose a dan-
ger to pedestrians or vehicles.
The design of surface drainage
systems is based on the intensity
and duration of rain storms and
on allowable runoff. These condi-
tions are usually regulated by the
local building code, which can be
used to check the adequacy of an
existing surface drainage system.
In some locations, especially
where slopes lack vegetation to
slow water flow, it may be possi-
ble to reduce rehabilitation costs
by diverting rainwater into a
swale at or near the top of the
slope and thereby reduce the
amount of rainwater runoff han-
dled by a surface drainage sys-
tem. This swale, of course, must
be within the property on which
the building is located.
The ground beneath porches and
other parts of a building that are
supported on piers should be
examined carefully. It should
have no low areas and be sloped
so that water will not collect
there.
Water from the roof reaches the
ground through gutters and down-
spouts or by flowing directly off
roof edges. Because downspouts
create concentrated sources of
water in the landscape, where they
discharge is important. Down-
spouts should not discharge where
water will flow directly on or over
a walk, drive, or stairs. The down-
spouts on a hillside building
should discharge on the downhill
side of the building. The force of

Residential Inspection 5
water leaving a downspout is
sometimes great enough to dam-
age the adjacent ground, so some
protection at grade such as a
splash pan or a paved drainage
chute is needed. In urban areas, it
is better to drain downspouts to
an underground storm water
drainage system, if there is one,
or underground to discharge at a
lower grade away from buildings.
Water that flows directly off a
roof lacking gutters and down-
spouts can cause damage below.
Accordingly, some provision in
the landscaping may be needed,
such as a gravel bed or paved
drainage way.
When a sump pump is used to
keep a building interior dry, the
discharge onto the site should be
located so that the discharge
drains away from the building
and does not add to the subsur-
face water condition the sump
pump is meant to control.
The site should be examined
overall for the presence of
springs, standing water, saturat-
ed or boggy ground, a high water
table, and dry creeks or other
seasonal drainage ways, all of
which may affect surface
drainage. It is especially impor-
tant to inspect the ground at and
around a septic system seepage
bed, seepage pit, or absorption
trenches. See Section 6.7.
Where a building is situated on a hillside, swales can be used to direct surface water away
from the foundation.
Settled backfill allows water to collect next to the foundation wall and penetrates into the
basement.

Residential Inspection6
1.2
Site Improvements
Well-maintained landscaping and
other site improvements are im-
portant for the enjoyment, resale,
or rental value of a property. In-
spect the following:
� Plantings. Note the location
and condition of all trees and
shrubbery. Those that are over-
grown may need pruning or
trimming; in some cases they
may be so overgrown that they
will have to be removed. When
trees or shrubbery exhibit dis-
ease or infestation, consult a
qualified expert. Removing
large trees may require special
expertise and can be particu-
larly costly.
Check where overhanging
branches may interfere with
the chimney’s draft, damage
utility wires, or deposit leaves
and twigs in roof gutters and
drains.
Trees and shrubbery that
are very close to exterior walls
or roofs can cause damage that
is sometimes severe, and they
can make it difficult to make
inspections, do maintenance,
and make repairs. Branches in
these locations will need to be
pruned back.
Tree roots under paving and
stairs can cause damage that is
sometimes severe. Roots are
usually exposed near the sur-
face and will need to be cut
back.
Tree roots can heave foun-
dations and may cause crack-
ing by pushing against foun-
dations from the outside. If
tree roots are under a footing,
cutting down the tree can lead
to rotting of the roots and
subsequent settling of the
f o u n d a t i o n .
Observe the solar shading
characteristics of all site plant-
ings. Do they provide protec-
tion from the summer sun and
allow the winter sun to warm
the building? Large deciduous
trees located to the south and
west of a building can do both,
and a special effort should be
made to retain and protect
such trees where they exist.
� Fences. Fences are usually
installed to provide physical or
visual privacy. Examine their
plumbness and overall condi-
tion. Inspect wood fences for
signs of rot or insect infesta-
tion and inspect metal fences
for rust. Inspect all gates and
their associated hardware for
proper fit, operation, and clear-
ance. Fences are often addres-
sed in homeowner association
bylaws and deed covenants.
These should be checked and
their requirements, if any,
compared to existing condi-
tions or used for the design of
a new or replacement fence.
Pay special attention to fence
locations and property lines.
� Lighting. Examine outdoor
lighting elements to determine
their condition and functional
safety. Turn site lighting on,
preferably at night, to check its
operation and to determine if
the light is adequate for its
purpose. Exposed wiring that is
not UV- and moisture-resistant
should be replaced. Under-
ground wiring should be type
UF. Fixtures, switches, and
outlets should be properly cov-
ered and protected from mois-
ture penetration.
� Paved areas. Inspect all walks,
drives, and patios for their
condition and to make sure
paved areas immediately adja-
cent to a building are sloped
away from building walls.
Paving that is not sloped to
drain water away from a build-
ing should be replaced. Inspect
paving for cracks, broken sec-
tions, high areas, low areas
that trap water, and tripping
hazards.
Paved areas that are made of
concrete and are in poor condi-
tion may have to be replaced.
Concrete cannot be repaired by
resurfacing with a thin layer of
more concrete. Concrete
repairs in climates where freez-
ing occurs should be no less
than three inches thick. Where
there is no freezing weather,
repairs that are two inches
thick may be used. Cracks in
concrete should be cut open
and sealed with a flexible
sealant compound, which will
extend its service life albeit not
improve its appearance. Where
there is a difference in eleva-
tion in a walk or drive that cre-
ates a tripping hazard, the
higher portion of concrete may
be ground down to the level of
the lower portion, although the
grinding will change the
appearance of the concrete.
Sunken areas of concrete pav-
ing result from failure of the
subbase. For sidewalks it may
be possible to lift up sections
of the paving between con-
struction joints, add to and

Residential Inspection 7
compact the subbase to the
proper elevation, and replace
the paving sections.
Failed or sunken areas of
asphalt drives and walks usual-
ly should be resurfaced or
replaced. Sealing asphalt pav-
ing extends its life. Examine
the paving to determine when
sealing is needed. Check as-
phalt drives and walks for low
areas that hold water and
freeze in cold climates. Low
areas in asphalt paving can be
brought to level with an as-
phalt overlay.
Brick or stone patio paving
should be set either on a con-
crete slab in a mortar bed with
mortar joints or in a sand bed
that is laid on earth or on a
concrete slab. Mortar joints can
be tuck pointed and loose
bricks or stones can be reset in
a new mortar bed. Pavers set in
sand can be taken up easily,
sand added or removed, and
the pavers replaced.
When considering the repair
or replacement of such site ele-
ments, pay particular attention
to existing property lines and
easements.
The maintenance, repair,
and replacement of sidewalks,
drive aprons, and curb cuts at
the street may be the responsi-
bility of the local jurisdiction.
Check the property’s deed or
consult local authorities.
� S t a i r s . Inspect the condition of
exterior stairs and railings
using the current building
code as a guide. Every stair
with more than three steps
should have a handrail located
34 to 38 inches (865 to
965 mm) above the edges of
the stair tread. Shake all rail-
ings vigorously to check their
stability and inspect their fas-
tenings. Stairs that are more
than 30 inches (760 mm)
above the adjacent grade and
walks located more than
30 inches (760 mm) above the
grade immediately below
should have guards not less
than 36 inches (915 mm) high
and intermediate rails that will
not allow the passage of a
sphere 4 inches (100 mm) in
diameter. Check wooden steps
for proper support and
strength and for rot and insect
infestation. Inspect steel stairs
for rust, strength, and attach-
ment. Deteriorated stairs
should be repaired or re-
placed. Stair treads should be
as level as possible without
holding water. It is preferable
that stairs in walks on site that
are accessible to the general
public have at least three ris-
ers. Stair riser heights and
tread depths should be,
respectively, uniform.
� Retaining walls. Inspect the
construction and condition of
retaining walls. Retaining walls
more than two feet in height
should be backed with drain-
age material, such as gravel.
There should be drains at the
bottom of the drainage materi-
al. The drains should discharge
water either at the end of the
wall or through pipes set in the
wall itself. These drains and
the drainage material behind
the wall relieve the pressure of
ground water on the wall. If
possible, weep holes and
related drains should be exam-
ined closely following a reason-
ably heavy rain to make sure
they are working properly. If
they are not discharging water,
the drains should be cleaned
out and observed again in the
next rain. Failure to drain
should be remedied by excavat-
ing behind the wall, replacing
the drainage material and dam-
aged drainage piping, and
backfilling. In all but the driest
climates, improper drainage of
water from behind a retaining
wall can cause the wall to fail.
Check for bowing (vertical
bulges), sweeping (horizontal
bulges), and cracking in retain-
ing walls that can be caused by
water pressure. Bulging can
also be a result of inadequate
strength to resist the load of
the earth behind the wall.
Bowing and sweeping failures
may be correctable if found 

early enough and if the cause
is poor drainage.
Check for other failures of
retaining walls. Failure by over-
turning (leaning from the top)
or sliding may be caused by
inadequate wall strength. In
addition, water behind a wall
can create moist bearing, espe-
cially in clay soils, and con-
tribute to sliding. Retaining
walls also fail due to settling
and heaving. The former
occurs whenever filled earth
below the wall compacts soon
after the wall is built, or when
wet earth caused by poor
drainage dries out and soil
consolidates at any time in a
wall’s service life. Poor drain-
age contributes to failure in
cold climates by creating

Residential Inspection8
The outward movement of the upper part of this retaining wall can be halted only by structural
reinforcement. Simply patching the crack will not solve the problem.
Failing retaining walls more
than two feet in height should
be inspected by a structural
e n g i n e e r .
� Buried oil tanks. Buried fer-
rous metal oil tanks are com-
mon on older properties that
have buildings or domestic
water heated by oil. The pres-
ence of a buried oil tank usual-
ly can be determined by find-
ing the fill pipe cover on the
ground and the vent pipe that
extends above ground to a
height of at least four feet.
Abandoned and very old
buried ferrous metal oil tanks
are an environmental hazard. If
such a buried tank is located
on the property, the soil
around it should be tested by a
qualified environmental engi-
neer for the presence of oil
seepage. If leaking has oc-
curred, the tank and all conta-
minated soil around it must be
removed. If leaking has not
occurred, it may still be a
potential problem. Even if a
tank is empty, it still may have
residual oil in the bottom that
is a pollutant. Strong consider-
ation should be given to re-
moving the tank or filling it
with an approved inert materi-
al after pumping out any old
residual oil.
� Aerials. On-site installations of
aerial masts either from the
ground or mounted to a tree or
building should be assessed
for structural stability, espe-
cially in high wind areas.
heaving from frozen ground.
Both overturning and sliding
may be stabilized and some-
times corrected if the amount
of movement is not extreme.
Settling may be corrected on
small, low walls of concrete or
masonry, and heaving may be
controlled by proper drainage.
Significant failure of any kind
usually requires rebuilding or
replacing all or part of a wall.

Residential Inspection 9
1.3
Outbuildings
Examine detached garages,
storage sheds, and other out-
buildings for their condition in
the same way that the primary
building is inspected. Check each
outbuilding’s water shedding
capability and the adequacy of its
foundations. On the interior, look
for water staining on the roof or
walls. Wood frame structures
should be thoroughly inspected
for rot and insect infestation.
Check also that all doors function
properly and that doors and win-
dows provide adequate weather
protection and security for the
building. Make sure that small
outbuildings have sufficient
structural strength to sustain the
applicable wind loads or seismic
forces.
If the site is in a hurricane or
high-wind region, check all out-
buildings for their ability to resist
a storm without coming apart and
becoming windborne debris.
Consider consulting an engineer.
1.4
Yards and Courts
In urban areas, two or more
dwelling units may share a yard
or court to provide light and ven-
tilation to interior rooms. The
adequacy of the light provided is
a function of the dimensions of
the yard or court, as well as the
color of surrounding walls. Check
these characteristics, as well as
zoning and building and housing
code requirements pertaining to
light, ventilation, and privacy
screening for yards and courts.
Such requirements may affect the
reuse of the property and their
implications should be under-
stood before the property is
altered or purchased.
1.5
Flood Regions
The Federal Emergency Manage-
ment Agency and the National
Flood Insurance Program have
established and defined five
major flood-risk zones and creat-
ed special flood resistance re-
quirements for each.
Improperly designed grading and
drainage may aggravate flood
hazards to buildings and cause
runoff, soil erosion, and sedimen-
tation in the zones of lower flood
risk, the Interflood Zone, and the
Non-Regulated Flood Plain. In
these locations, local agencies
may regulate building elevations
above street or sewer levels. In
the next higher risk zones, the
Special Flood Hazard Areas and
the Non-Velocity Coastal Flood
Areas (both Zone A), the elevation
of the lowest floor and its struc-
tural members above the base
flood elevation is required. In the
zone of highest flood risk, the
Coastal High Hazard Areas
(Velocity Zone, Zone V), addition-
al structural requirements apply.
Check with local authorities to
determine if the site is in a flood-
risk zone. If it is, check with local
building officials. Higher stan-
dards than those set by national
agencies have been adopted by
many communities.

Residential Inspection10
2
Building Exterior
After the site inspection has been
completed, systematically inspect
the building’s exterior for its con-
dition and weathertightness.
Begin either at the foundation
and work up or begin at the roof
and work down. Examine the
quality and condition of all exteri-
or materials and look for patterns
of damage or deterioration that
should be further investigated
during the interior inspection.
Determine the building’s architec-
tural style and note what should
be done to maintain or restore its
integrity and character. See
Chapter 4 for assessing structural
components of the building.
In regions of medium to high
seismic activity, buildings with
irregular shapes (in either plan or
elevation) may be especially vul-
nerable to earthquakes. Examine
the building for such irregulari-
ties, and if present, consider con-
sulting a structural engineer.
In hurricane regions, examine
screen and jalousie enclosures,
carports, awnings, canopies,
porch roofs, and roof overhangs
to determine their condition and
the stability of their fastenings.
Then examine the following four
critical areas of the exterior to
determine their condition and
strength: roofs, windows, doors,
and garage doors.
In locations where wildfires can
occur, some jurisdictions have
restrictions on the use of flamma-
ble exterior materials. Check with
the local building official or the
fire marshal, or both, for detailed
information.
Additional information on the
evaluation and treatment of his-
toric building exteriors is present-
ed in the Secretary of the Inter-
ior’s Standards for Rehabilitation,
available full text online at
http://www2.cr.nps.gov/tps.
When universal design is a part of
a rehabilitation, consult HUD pub-
lication Residential Remodeling
and Universal Design for detailed
information about entrances,
doors, and decks.
2.1
Foundation Walls
and Piers
Foundation walls and piers in
small residential buildings are
usually made of masonry and
should be inspected for cracking,
deterioration, moisture penetra-
tion, and structural adequacy. See
Sections 4.3 and 4.4. Wood posts
and columns and concrete foun-
dations and piers should be
inspected in accordance with
Sections 4.7 and 4.9.
2.2
Exterior Wall Cladding
Exterior walls above the founda-
tion may be covered with a vari-
ety of materials, including wood
siding or its aluminum and vinyl
substitutes, wood or asbestos
cement shingles, plywood with
and without a medium density
(plastic) overlay, stucco, brick or
stone masonry, and an exterior
insulation and finish system.
These materials are designed to
serve as a weathertight, decora-
tive skin and, in warm climates
should be light in color to reduce
heat absorption. Inspect exterior
claddings as follows:
� Exterior wood elements.
Inspect all painted surfaces for
peeling, blistering, and check-
ing. Paint-related problems
may be due to vapor pressure
beneath the paint, improper
paint application, or excessive
paint buildup. Corrective mea-
sures for these problems will
vary from the installation of
moisture vents to complete
paint removal. Mildew stains
on painted surfaces do not
hurt the wood and may be
cleaned with a mildew
remover.
All wood elements should
be checked for fungal and
insect infestation at exposed
horizontal surfaces and exteri-
or corner joints, as specified
for wood structural compo-
nents in Section 4.7.
Check the distance between
the bottom of wood elements
and grade. In locations that
have little or no snow, the dis-
tance should be no less than
six inches. In locations with
significant, lasting snow, the
bottom of wood elements
should be no less than six
inches above the average snow
depth.
� Aluminum and vinyl siding.
Aluminum and vinyl siding
may cover up decayed or
insect-infested wood but
otherwise are generally low
maintenance materials. Check
for loose, bent, cracked, or

Residential Inspection 11
A second layer of shingles has filled the for-
mer gap between roof and zsiding, causing
the siding to deteriorate. Shingles are
cupped and beginning to fail as well.
The stucco is beginning to erode on this
structure due to a poor roof drainage detail.
A longer scupper would solve this problem.
broken pieces. Inspect all
caulked joints, particularly
around window and door
trim. Many communities
require aluminum siding to be
electrically grounded; check
for such grounding.
� Asbestos cement shingles.
Like aluminum and vinyl sid-
ing, asbestos cement shingles
may cover decayed or insect-
infested wood. Check for
loose, cracked, or broken
pieces and inspect around all
window and door trim for
signs of deterioration.
� Stucco. Check stucco for
cracks, crumbling sections,
and areas of water infiltration.
Old and weathered cracks may
be caused by the material’s
initial shrinkage or by earlier
building settlement. New,
sharp cracks may indicate
movement behind the walls
that should be investigated.
Refer to Section 4.5 for prob-
lems with masonry walls. It is
difficult to match the color of
stucco repairs to the original
stucco, so plan to repaint sur-
rounding stucco work where
sections are mended.

Residential Inspection12
� Brick or stone veneers.
Inspect veneers for cracking,
mortar deterioration, and
spalling. Refer to Sections 4.3
and 4.5 for the inspection of
above-ground masonry walls.
� Exterior insulation and finish
systems (EIFS). EIFS, also
known as synthetic stucco, has
been in widespread residential
use since the early 1990s. It
generally consists of the follow-
ing product layers (moving out-
ward): insulation board, mesh
and base coat layer, finish coat,
and sealant and flashing.
EIFS was originally designed
as a nondraining water and
moisture barrier system. A
drainage-type EIFS that allows
water and moisture to pene-
trate the surface and then
drain away has been developed
more recently. Most existing
EIFS in residential applications
is installed over wood framing
and is of the nondraining type.
Water leakage and consequent
rotting of the wood framing
have become serious problems
in many installations, especial-
ly at wall openings such as
windows and doors, where
inadequate flashing details can
allow water seepage into the
wall interior.
Manufacturers of EIFS differ
in their installation methods.
Inspecting existing EIFS is diffi-
cult because it is a proprietary
product and there are no stan-
dard construction details. Use
a trained specialist to check
for concealed water damage
and rot.
Exterior walls of older buildings
usually contain no thermal insula-
tion. Examine behind the cladding
when possible to determine the
presence of insulation, if any, and
assess the potential for insulating
the exterior walls.
Where mildew and mold are evi-
dent on exterior cladding or
where interior walls are damp,
there is the possibility that con-
densation is occurring in the
walls. Moisture problems general-
ly occur in cold weather when
outside temperatures and vapor
pressures are low and there are a
number of water vapor sources
within the building. The presence
of moisture may be a result of an
improperly installed or failed
vapor barrier, or no vapor barrier
at all. If condensation is suspect-
ed, an analysis of the wall sec-
tion(s) in question should be
made. This analysis will provide
the information necessary to
make the needed repairs.
2.3
Windows and Doors
Windows and doors are the most
complex elements of the build-
ing’s exterior and should be
inspected from the outside as
follows:
� Exterior doors should be
examined for their condition,
overall operation and fit, and
for the functionality of their
hardware. Door types include
hinged, single and double
doors of wood, steel, alu-
minum, and plastic with and
without glazing. Check wood
and plastic doors that are not
protected from the weather.
These doors should be rated
for exterior use.
In warm climates, jalousie
doors may also be in use. Check
these doors to make sure the
louvers close tightly and in uni-
son for weathertightness.
Some buildings use glass
framed doors of fixed and
operable panels that have
wood, vinyl-covered wood, and
aluminum frames. Check the
track of these sliding doors for
dents, breaks, and straight-
ness. Check the glides of oper-
able panels for wear and check
the sealing of fixed panels for
weathertightness. Note the
degree of physical security
offered by doors and their
locksets and pay special atten-
tion to pairs of hinged and
sliding doors.
Doors also should be
inspected for the exterior con-
dition of their frames and sills.
Check doors that are not pro-
tected from the weather for the
presence of essential flashing
at the head.
Glazing on exterior doors
should be examined as de-
scribed in the following section
on windows. The interior condi-
tion and hardware of exterior
doors will be examined during
the interior inspection.
In hurricane regions, check
exterior doors, and especially
double doors, for the presence
of dead-bolt locks with a throw
length of no less than one inch.
� Windows should be inspected
for the exterior condition of
their frames, sills and sashes,
and for overall operation and

Residential Inspection 13
The glazing putty in this window is deteriorated in some locations. Repairs will be time
consuming.
fit. The interior condition and
hardware of windows will be
examined during the interior
inspection. There are eight
types of windows and six types
of frame material in general
use in residential buildings.
Frame materials are plastic,
aluminum, steel, wood, plastic-
clad wood, and metal-clad
(steel or aluminum) wood.
Window types are double hung,
single hung, casement, hori-
zontal sliding, projected out or
awning, projected in, and fixed.
In addition to these, there are
jalousies: glass louvers on an
aluminum or steel frame.
The glazing compound or
putty around glass panels in
older sashes should be exam-
ined especially carefully since
this is often the most vulnera-
ble part of the window and its
repair is time consuming.
Examine glazing tapes or strips
around glass panels in steel or
aluminum sashes for signs of
deterioration such as hardened
sealant or poor fit. Check
metal sashes for weep holes
that have been blocked by
paint, sealant, or dirt. Weep
holes are usually easy to clean.
Check windows that are not
protected from the weather for
the presence of essential flash-
ing at the head.
For windows close to the
ground or easily accessible
from flat roofs, note the
degree of physical security pro-
vided by the windows and their
locks.
In hurricane regions, check
all windows and glass doors
that are not protected by shut-
ters to determine if they have
been tested for impact resis-
tance to windborne debris. If
they have not been so tested,
determine if plywood panels
can be installed for their pro-
tection at the time of a hurri-
cane warning.
� Weather stripping. Window
and door weather stripping is
generally of three types: metal,
foam plastic, or plastic strip-
ping. Check each type for fit.
Check metal for dents, bends,
and straightness. Check foam
plastic for resiliency and plas-
tic stripping for brittleness and
cracks. Make sure the weather
stripping is securely held in
place.

Residential Inspection14
� Shutters. Window shutters are
generally of two types: decora-
tive and functional. Decorative
shutters are fixed to the exteri-
or wall on either side of a win-
dow. Check the shutter’s condi-
tion and its mounting to the
wall. Functional shutters are
operable and can be used to
close off a window. Assess the
adequacy of these shutters for
their purpose: privacy, light
control, security, or protection
against bad weather. Check
their operation and observe
their condition and fit.
Shutters close to the ground
can be examined from the
ground. Shutters out of reach
from the ground should be
examined during the interior
inspection when windows are
examined.
In hurricane regions, check
shutters to see if the shutter
manufacturer has certified
them for hurricane use. If they
provide protection to windows
and glass doors, determine if
they have been tested for
impact resistance to windborne
debris.
� Awnings. Windows and glazed
exterior doors sometimes have
awnings over them, usually for
sun control, but sometimes for
decoration or protection from
the weather. Awnings are usu-
ally made of metal, plastic, or
fabric on a metal or plastic
frame. Some are fixed in place,
while others are operable and
can be folded up against the
exterior wall. Check the condi-
tion of awnings. Assess the
adequacy of the attachment to
the exterior wall. Fold up and
unfold operable awnings and
note the ease of operation. If
an awning is used for sun con-
trol, assess its effectiveness
and its effect on energy con-
servation.
� Storm windows and doors
should be examined for opera-
tion, weathertightness, overall
condition, and fit. Check the
condition of screen and glass
inserts; if they are in storage,
locate, count, and inspect them.
Check also to determine if the
weep holes have been blocked
by paint, sealant, dirt, or other
substances. Opening weep
holes is usually easy to do.
� Garage doors should be exam-
ined for operation, weather-
tightness, overall condition,
and fit. Doors without motors
should be manually opened
and closed. Doors with motors
should be operated using each
of the operators on the system
(key lock switch or combina-
tion lock key pad where con-
trol must be accessible on the
exterior, remote electrical
switch, radio signal switch, or
photoelectric control switch).
Check the operation for
smoothness, quietness, time of
operation, and safety. Check
for the presence and proper
operation of the door safety
reversing device. Observe
exposed parts of the installa-
tion for loose connections,
rust, and bent or damaged
pieces.
Garage doors are made of
wood, hardboard on a wood
frame, steel, glass fiber on a
steel frame, glass fiber, and
aluminum. All come with
glazed panes in a wide variety
of styles. Check wood and
hardboard for rot and water
damage, check hardboard for
cracking and splitting, check
steel for rust, check glass fiber
for ultraviolet light deteriora-
tion, and check aluminum for
dents.
In hurricane regions, exam-
ine garage doors, especially
single doors on two-car gar-
ages, to determine if the
assembly (door and track) has
been tested for hurricane wind
loads or has been reinforced.
� Safety Glazing. G l a z e d
entrance doors including storm
doors, sliding glass patio doors,
and glazing immediately adja-
cent to these doors, but exclud-
ing jalousie doors, should be
fully tempered, wire, or lami-
nated glass or an approved
plastic material. In addition,
glazing adjacent to any surface
normally used for walking
must be safety glazing. Safety
glazing is a building code
requirement that applies to
both new and replacement
glazing.
2.4
Decks, Porches, and
Balconies
Decks, porches, and balconies are
exposed to the elements to a
greater extent than most other
parts of a building and are there-
fore more susceptible to deterio-
ration. Inspect for the following:
� Condition. Examine all porch,
deck, and balcony supports for
signs of loose or deteriorated

Residential Inspection 15
components. See Section 4.7
for the inspection of wood
structural components. Mas-
onry or concrete piers should
be plumb and stable; check
them in accordance with Sec-
tion 4.4. Make sure that struc-
tural connections to the build-
ing are secure and protected
against corrosion or decay.
Examine porch floors for
signs of deflection and deterio-
ration. Where the porch floor
or deck is close to the level of
the interior floor, look for
signs of water infiltration at
the door sill and check for a
positive pitch of the porch
floor or deck away from the
exterior wall.
� Exterior railings and stairs.
Inspect the condition of all
exterior stairs and railings.
Every stair with more than
The joint between the two parts of this support creates a hinge that can affect the roof
three steps should have a
structure.
handrail located 34 to 38 inch-
es (865 to 965 mm) above the
edges of the stair tread. Shake
all railings vigorously to check
their stability, and inspect
their fastenings. Most codes
for new construction require
that porches, balconies, and
decks located more than 30
inches (760 mm) above the
ground have guards not less
than 36 inches (915 mm) high
and intermediate rails that will
not allow the passage of a
sphere 4 inches (100 mm) in
diameter. Check wooden steps
for proper support and
strength and for rot and insect
infestation. Inspect steel stairs
for rust, strength, and attach-
ment. Deteriorated stairs
A rotted corner post on a screened porch. In this case, the rotted section of the post and a
should be repaired or r e p l a c e d .
small section of the floor beneath it were removed and replaced with sound wood.

Residential Inspection16
Stair treads should be as level
as possible without holding
water. Stair riser heights and
tread depths should be, respec-
tively, uniform.
2.5
Pitched Roof Coverings
Pitched or steep sloped roofs are
best inspected when direct
access is gained to all their sur-
faces. Use binoculars to inspect
roofs that are inaccessible or
that cannot be walked on. Look
for deteriorated or loose flash-
ing, signs of damage to the roof
covering, and valleys and gutters
clogged with debris. Carefully
examine exterior walls and trim
for deterioration beneath the
eaves of pitched roofs that have
no overhang or gutters. There
are four categories of pitched
roof covering materials and their
condition should be checked as
follows:
� Asphalt shingles. Asphalt or
“composition” shingles have a
service life of about 20 years
for the first layer and about 15
years for a second layer added
over the first layer, depending
on their weight, quality, and
exposure. When they begin to
lose their granular covering
and start to curl they should
be replaced. No more than two
layers of asphalt shingles
should normally be in place at
any one time. If a second layer
of asphalt shingles has been
applied, check to see if all the
flashing materials (galvanized
steel, aluminum, rubber) in the
first layer were removed and
Vulnerable roof areas
replaced with new flashing at
the second layer.
Check the roof slope. A
slope of 4 in 12 or steeper is
referred to as normal. A slope
of between 3 in 12 and
4 in 12 is referred to as low.
No asphalt shingle roof should
be less steep than 3 in 12. If
the roof has a normal slope,
check the underlayment if pos-
sible. It should be at least a
single layer of 15-pound (6.8
kg) asphalt saturated felt. Low-
slope roofs should have at
least two such felt layers. If ice
dam flashing at overhanging
eaves is needed (see Section
2.8) or present, make sure it
extends three feet beyond the
plane of the interior face of the
exterior wall below for a low-
slope roof and two feet for a
normal-slope roof.
� Wood shingles or shakes. This
type of covering has a normal
life expectancy of 25 to 30
years in climates that are not
excessively hot and humid, but
durability varies according to
wood species, thickness, the
slope of the roof, whether
shingles are made of heart-
wood, and whether they have
been periodically treated with
preservative. Shakes are hand-

Residential Inspection 17
This slate roof should be carefully investigated since it has a makeshift repair. Other problems include the chimney, which is too low, and the vent
pipe, which is too narrow.
split on at least one face and
either tapered or straight.
Shingles are sawn and tapered.
Check the roof slope. The min-
imum slope for wood shingles
is 3 in 12 and the minimum
slope for shakes is 4 in 12. As
wood shingles and shakes age,
they dry, crack, and curl. In
damp locations they rot.
Replace them when more than
one-third show signs of deterio-
ration. These materials are easi-
ly broken. They should not be
walked on during the inspec-
tion. If the roof is historic or
relatively complex, consult a
wood roofing specialist.
� Metal roofing. Metal can last
50 years or more if properly
painted or otherwise main-
tained. Metal roofs may be
made of galvanized iron or
steel, aluminum, copper, or
lead; each material has its own
unique wearing characteristics.
Inspect metal roofs for signs of
rusting or pitting, corrosion
due to galvanic action, and
loose, open, or leaking seams
and joints. The slope of metal
roofing can be from one-half
inch per foot (1:24) to very
steep. The types of metal,
seams, and slope determine
the construction details. There
are three basic seam types—
batten, standing, and flat—as
well as flat and formed metal
panels. Snow guards are need-
ed on steeper slopes and in
locations with heavy, long-
lasting snow, bracket and pipe
snow guards also may be nec-
essary. Low-slope metal roofs
that are coated with tarlike
material are probably patched
or have pin holes and cannot
be counted on to be leak-free.
If the roof is historic or rela-
tively complex, consult a metal
roof specialist.

Residential Inspection18
� Slate, clay tile, and asbestos
cement shingles. These roof
coverings are extremely
durable and, if of high quality
and properly maintained, may
last the life of the structure.
Check the roof slope. The mini-
mum slope for roofs of these
materials is 4 in 12. Slate shin-
gles should be secured by cop-
per nails except in the very dri-
est of climates; look at the
underside of the roof sheath-
ing in the attic or check the
nails on broken shingles. Nail
heads should be covered with
sealant. Nails for tile roofs
should be non-corroding. All of
these roof coverings are brittle
materials and easily broken,
and should not be walked on
during the inspection. Use
binoculars to look for missing,
broken, or slipping pieces.
Slate is particularly susceptible
to breakage by ice or ice dams
in the winter, and should
therefore be especially well
drained. Snow guards are need-
ed on steeper slopes, and in
locations with heavy, long-
lasting snow, snow guards also
may be necessary. Moss will
sometimes grow on asbestos
cement shingles; it should be
removed with a cleaner to pre-
vent capillary water leaks.
Slate, clay tile, and asbestos
shingles should be repaired or
replaced by a qualified roofer.
Examine the underside of the
roof later during the interior
i n s p e c t i o n .
2.6
Low-Slope Roof Coverings
A roof that is nearly level or
slightly pitched is called a low-
slope roof. No roof should be
The built-up roof and flashings in this photograph are in poor condition. Patching may work temporarily, but the roof and flashings should be
replaced.

Residential Inspection 19
dead level flat; it must have at
least a slight slope to drain.
Problems in low-slope roofs are
common and more difficult to
diagnose than pitched roof prob-
lems because the path of water
leakage through flat roofs is often
quite hard to trace. Look for signs
of ponded water due to either
improper drainage or sagging of
the roof deck. If the cause is a
sagging deck, it should be struc-
turally corrected before it wors-
ens. Low-slope roofs are expensive
to repair, so extra care should be
taken in their examination.
Inspect the flashing and joints
around all roof penetrations,
including drains, soil stacks,
chimneys, skylights, hatchways,
antenna mountings, and other
roof-mounted elements. Note if
metal flashings need painting or
reanchoring and if asphaltic or
rubber flashings are brittle or
cracked. Check parapet wall caps
and flashing for signs of damage
due to wall movement.
Examine all portions of the roof
covering. Look for signs of previ-
ous repairs that may indicate
trouble spots. There are four cate-
gories of low-slope roof covering
materials and they should be
inspected as follows:
� Built-up roofing. Built-up roofs
are composed of several layers
of roofing felt lapped and
cemented together with bitumi-
nous material and protected by
a thin layer of gravel or crushed
stone. Built-up roofs vary great-
ly in life span, but those used in
residential buildings usually
last about 20 years, depending
on their quality, exposure, num-
ber of plies, and the adequacy
of their drainage. Because built-
up roofs are composed of sev-
eral layers, they can contain
moisture in the form of water
or water vapor between layers.
Moisture not only accelerates
deterioration, it can also leak
into a building. Look for crack-
ing, blistering, alligatoring, and
wrinkling, all of which may indi-
cate the need for roof replace-
ment or repair. Consult an
experienced roofer for a further
evaluation if you are in doubt.
Test: An infrared or nuclear scanner
can be used to detect areas of mois-
ture in built-up roofs. Once located,
these areas can be more thoroughly
checked with a moisture meter or a
nuclear meter. Such tests must be
performed by a trained roofing
inspector and are normally used to
determine areas that need replace -
ment on very large roofs.
� Single-ply membrane
roofing. A single-ply mem-
brane roof consists of plastic,
modified bitumen, and synthet-
ic rubber sheeting that is laid
over the roof deck, usually in a
single ply and often with a top
coating to protect it from ultra-
violet light degradation. Single-
ply roofs are installed in three
basic ways: fully adhered,
mechanically attached, and
loose laid with ballast. If prop-
erly installed and properly
maintained, a single-ply roof
should last 20 years. Roof pen-
etrations and seams are the
most vulnerable parts of sin-
gle-ply membrane roofing and
should be carefully checked.
The material is also susceptible
to ultraviolet light deteriora-
tion. A protective coating can
be used to protect it, but the
coating should be reapplied
periodically. Check carefully
for surface degradation on an
unprotected roof and fading of
the coating on a protected
roof. Check also for signs of
water ponding and poor
drainage.
� Roll roofing. Roll roofing con-
sists of an asphalt-saturated,
granule-covered roofing felt
that is laid over the roof deck.
It can only provide single- or
two-ply coverage. Inspect roll
roofing for cracking, blistering,
surface erosion, and torn sec-
tions. Seams are the most vul-
nerable part of roll roofing, and
should be carefully checked for
separation and lifting. Also
check for signs of water pond-
ing and poor drainage.
� Metal roofing. See Section 2.5.
The underside of the low-slope
roof should be examined during
the interior inspection. If it is
inaccessible, look for signs of
water leakage on interior ceilings
and walls.
2.7
Skylights
From the exterior, check all sky-
lights for cracked or broken glaz-
ing material, adequate flashing,
and rusted or decayed frames.
Skylights will be checked again
during the interior inspection.
Leaking skylights are common.
Replacement skylights must com-
ply with the building code.

Residential Inspection20
The gutters on this low-slope roof are deteriorating largely because of the accumulated detritus that they hold. They should be inspected and
cleaned periodically.
2.8
Gutters and Downspouts
Buildings with pitched roofs can
have a variety of drainage sys-
tems. With a sufficient overhang,
water can drain directly to the
ground without being intercepted
at the roof edge. See Section 1.1.
Usually, pitched roofs end in gut-
ters that are drained by down-
spouts.
Low-slope roof drainage is accom-
plished in one of three ways:
without gutters or downspouts,
with gutters and downspouts, or
by downspouts that go down
through a building’s interior.
Drainage without gutters and
downspouts can damage the exte-
rior wall with overflow. If the roof
has no gutters and downspouts
or interior downspouts, carefully
examine the exterior walls for
signs of water damage.
Gutter and downspout materials
are usually galvanized steel, alu-
minum, copper, or plastic.
� Gutters should have a mini-
mum ratio of gutter depth to
width of 3 to 4; the front edge
should be one-half inch
(13 mm) lower than the back
edge; and four inches is
considered the minimum width
except on the roofs of canopies
and small porches. Make cer-
tain all gutters are clean and
slope uniformly, without low
areas, to downspouts. If there
is a screen or similar device to
prevent anything but water
from flowing into the gutter,
check its condition, fit, and
position, to be sure water real-
ly can enter the gutter. Check
gutters without screens or sim-
ilar devices to be sure that bas-
ket strainers are installed at
each downspout. Check the
physical and functional

Residential Inspection 21
Eave protection against ice dams
Dormer gutters improperly discharging onto the roof
condition of all gutters. Joints
should be soldered or sealed
with mastic. Also examine the
placement of gutters: the
steeper the roof pitch, the
lower the gutter placement. On
roofs with lower slopes make
sure gutters are placed close to
the roof’s surface. Hangers
should be placed no more than
three feet apart. Where ice and
snow are long lasting, hangers
should be placed no more than
18 inches (460 mm) apart.
Wherever a gutter is exposed,
check the strength of its fas-
tening to the roof fascia or
building exterior. Rusted fas-
teners and missing hangers
should be replaced.
� Ice dams can form on pitched
roof overhangs in cold climates
subject to prolonged periods
of freezing weather, especially
those climates with a daily
average January temperature
of 30 ºF (-1 º;C) or less. Heat
loss through the roof and heat
from the sun (even in freezing
temperatures) can cause snow
on a roof to melt. As water
runs down the roof onto the
overhang, it freezes and forms
an ice dam just above the gut-
ter. The ice dam traps water
from melting snow and forces
it back under the shingles and
into the building’s interior.
Check the edge of the roof
overhang for evidence of ice
dams and observe the eaves
and soffit for evidence of dete-
rioration and water damage.
Check gutters and the immedi-
ately adjacent roofing for the
presence of electrical de-icing
cables, which may be evidence

Residential Inspection22
of an ice dam problem. When
the interior inspection is made,
check the inside of exterior
walls and adjacent ceilings for
signs of water damage. If the
house has an attic, check the
underside of the roof deck at
exterior walls for signs of
water damage.
� Downspouts should be
checked for size. Seven square
inches is generally the mini-
mum except for small roofs or
canopies. Check downspout
attachments; there should be
attachments or straps at the
top, at the bottom, and at each
intermediate joint. Check
straps for rust, deformation,
and failed or loose fasteners.
Check the capacity of the
drainage system. At least one
downspout is usually needed
for each 40 feet (12 m) of gut-
ter. For roofs with gutters,
make sure that downspouts are
clear and that they discharge
so water will drain away from
the foundation. See Section 1.1.
For low-slope roofs without
gutters, interior downspouts
cannot be examined from the
roof, but check that basket
strainers are in place. During
the interior inspection, examine
areas through which interior
downspouts pass for signs of
water damage.
On buildings with multiple
roofs, one roof sometimes
drains to another roof. Where
that happens, water should not
be discharged directly onto
roofing material. Check to be
sure that water is always
directed to a gutter and that
higher gutters discharge to
lower gutters through down-
spouts.
Occasionally, wooden gut-
ters and downspouts are used,
usually in older or historic res-
idences. They may be built
into roof eaves and concealed
by roof fascias. Wooden gut-
ters are especially susceptible
to rot and deterioration and
should be carefully checked.
Pitched roofs in older build-
ings may end at a parapet wall
with a built-in gutter integrated
with the roof flashing. Here,
drainage is accomplished by a
scupper (a metal-lined opening
through the parapet wall that
discharges into a leader head
box that in turn discharges to
a downspout). Check the leader
head box to be sure it has a
strainer. Check the scupper for
deterioration and open seams
and check all metal roof flash-
ings, scuppers, leader head
boxes, and downspouts to
make certain they are made of
similar metals.
2.9
Chimneys
Chimneys should project at least
two feet above the highest part of
a pitched roof and anything else
that is within 10 feet (3 m). A
chimney should project at least
three feet from its penetration
from the roof (required minimum
heights may vary slightly). Check
the local building code. If the
chimney is not readily accessible,
examine what you can with binoc-
ulars from the highest vantage
point you can find.
Flues should not be smaller in
size than the discharge of the
appliance they serve. The mini-
mum flue area for a chimney con-
nected to a fireplace is normally
50 square inches (320 cm
2
) for
round linings, 64 square inches
(410 cm
2
) for rectangular linings,
and 100 square inches (650 cm
2
)
for an unlined chimney. Be
extremely cautious about unlined
chimneys; check the local build-
ing code. Flues should extend a
minimum of four inches above
the top of a masonry chimney.
The height between adjacent flues
in a multiple flue chimney with-
out a hood should vary approxi-

mately four inches to avoid down-
drafts. The same is true of a
chimney with a hood unless a
withe of masonry completely sep-
arates every flue.
Masonry chimneys without hoods
should have stone or reinforced
concrete caps at the top. Cement
washes with or without reinforc-
ing mesh are also used, but they
are the least durable. Some
masonry chimneys have hoods
over the flues. Hoods on masonry
chimneys consist of stone or rein-
forced concrete caps supported
on short masonry columns at the
perimeter of chimney tops, or
sheet metal caps supported on
short sheet metal columns. The
height of a hood above the top of
the highest flue should be at least
25 percent greater than the nar-
rowest dimension of the flue.
Check the condition of chimney
tops and hoods. If a cement wash
is not properly sloped or is exten-
sively cracked, spalled, or dis-
plays rust stains, it should be
replaced. Reinforced concrete

Residential Inspection 23
caps and stone caps with minor
shallow spalling and cracking
should be repaired. Those with
extensive spalling or cracking
should be replaced. Sheet metal
hood caps with minor rust or cor-
rosion should be repaired, but if
rust or corrosion is extensive,
replacement is needed.
Metal spark screens are some-
times used on wood and coal-
burning fireplace chimneys.
Check the condition and fit of
spark screens. Dirty or clogged
screens adversely affect draft and
should be cleaned.
Where a masonry chimney is
located on the side of a pitched
roof, a cricket is needed on the
higher side to divert water around
the chimney. Check the cricket to
be sure that its seams are water-
tight, that it is properly flashed
into the chimney and roofing, and
that it extends the full width of
the chimney.
In seismic zones, check the brac-
ing of masonry chimneys from
the top of the firebox to the cap,
and particularly the portion pro-
jecting above the roof. Consider
consulting a structural engineer
to determine the need for addi-
tional bracing or strengthening.
If the chimney is prefabricated
metal encased in an exterior
chase of siding, check the chase
top to be sure it is properly inter-
locked with the metal chimney’s
counterflashing so that the as-
sembly is watertight. Also check
the chase top for slope: water
should drain off the enclosure.
Check for the presence of a termi-
nal metal rain cap and make cer-
tain the flue terminates not less
than two inches and not more
than eight inches above the enclo-
sure top.
If the chimney is prefabricated
metal and not encased, check the
adjustable flashing at the roof to
be sure it is tightly sealed to the
chimney, preferably with counter-
flashing, and check for the pres-
ence of a stack cap.
2.10
Parapets and Gables
In seismic zones, check the
bracing of masonry parapets and
gables. Consider consulting a
structural engineer to determine
the need for additional bracing or
strengthening.
2.11
Lightning Protection
Lightning is a problem in some
locations. Check the local build-
ing code. Lighting protection may
be required to prevent powerline
surge damage to electrical service,
telephone service, or radio and
television leads; to protect tall
trees close to buildings; or to pro-
tect an entire building.
A lightning protection system is
an interconnected aggregation of
lightning rods, bonding connec-
tions, arresters, splicers, and
other devices that are installed on
a building or tree to safely con-
duct lightning to the ground.
Lightning protection components
and systems are identified by
Underwriters Laboratories in
three classes. Class I includes
ordinary buildings (including resi-
dences) under 75 feet (22 m) in
height. A Class I lightning protec-
tion system consists of lightning
rods located on the roof and on
projections, such as chimneys;
main conductors that tie the
lightning rods together and con-
nect them with a grounding sys-

tem; bonds to metal roof struc-
tures and equipment; arresters to
prevent powerline surge damage;
and ground terminals, usually
rods or plates driven or buried in
the earth. Lightning protection
systems should be examined by a
certified technician.
Using Appendix D, consult the
following sources for technical
information about lightning
protection systems:
� Lightning Protection Institute,
Installation Code, LPIB175.
� National Fire Protection
Association, NFPA 780,
Standard for the Installation of
Lightning Protection Systems.
� Underwriters Laboratories, Inc.,
UL 96, Lightning Protection
Components and UL 96A,
Installation Requirements for
Lightning Protection Systems.

Residential Inspection24
3
Building Interior
Following the inspection of the
site and the building’s exterior,
move indoors and systematically
inspect all interior spaces, includ-
ing basement or crawl space, fin-
ished rooms, halls and stairways,
storage spaces, and attic. Begin
either at the lowest level and
work up or at the attic and work
down. Examine the overall quali-
ty and condition of the building’s
construction and finish materi-
als. If the interior has unique
woodwork or other stylistic fea-
tures, consider how these may be
incorporated to best advantage
in the building’s reuse. Look for
patterns of water damage or
material deterioration that indi-
cate underlying problems in the
structural, electrical, plumbing, or
HVAC systems. These systems
will be inspected separately after
the interior inspection has been
c o m p l e t e d .
When universal design is a part of
a rehabilitation project, consult
HUD publication R e s i d e n t i a l
Remodeling and Universal Design
for detailed information about
doors, kitchens, bathrooms, laun-
dry areas, closets, stairs, win-
dows, and floor surfaces.
3.1
Basement or Crawl Space
The basement or crawl space is
often the most revealing area in
the building and usually provides
a general picture of how the
building works. In most cases,
the structure is exposed
Clues to water problems in basements
An uncovered earth floor in a crawl space can significantly increase moisture within the
building.

Residential Inspection 25
Termite infestation is most common in basements and crawl spaces, particularly near
foundation walls. Probe all suspect areas thoroughly.
overhead, as are the HVAC distri-
bution system, plumbing supply
and DWV lines, and the electrical
branch circuit wiring.
� Moisture. One of the most
common problems in small
residential structures is a wet
basement. Examine walls and
floors for signs of water pene-
tration such as dampness,
water stains, peeling paint,
efflorescence, and rust on
exposed metal parts. In fin-
ished basements, look for
rotted or warped wood panel-
ing and doors, loose floor tiles,
and mildew stains.
Determine the source of any
moisture that may be present.
It may come through the walls
or cracks in the floor, or from
backed-up floor drains, leaky
plumbing lines, or a clogged
air conditioner condensate line.
If moisture appears to be com-
ing through the walls, re-exam-
ine the roof drainage system
and grading around the exteri-
or of the building (the problem
could be as simple as a clogged
gutter). Recheck the sump
pump, if there is one, to be
sure the discharge is not
draining back into the base-
ment. Look for unprotected or
poorly drained window wells,
leaking exterior faucets, and
signs of leakage in the water
supply line near the building.
See Section 6.2 for water dis-
tribution system problems. If
foundation walls are cracked,
examine them in accordance
with Section 4.4.
Check the elevation of an
earthen floor in a crawl space
If the water table on the site is
high or the drainage outside
the building is poor, the crawl
space floor should not be
below the elevation of the
exterior grade.
If the basement or crawl
space is merely damp or
humid, the cause simply may
be lack of adequate ventilation,
particularly if the crawl space
has an earthen floor.
Check the ventilation. By
measurement and calculation,
compare the free area of vents
with the plan area of the crawl
space. The free vent area to
crawl space area ratio should
be 1 to 150 in a crawl space
with an earthen floor and 1 to
1,500 in a crawl space with a
vapor barrier of one perm or
less over the earthen floor. If
the calculated ratio is less, con-
sider adding ventilation, partic-
ularly in hot and humid cli-
mates, and especially if mois-
ture is present.
Check the location of the
vents through the foundation or
exterior wall. There should be
one vent near every corner of
the crawl space to promote
complete air movement. Check
vents for screens. They should
have corrosion resistant mesh
in good condition with maxi-
mum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) open-
ings. If the ventilation appears
to be inadequate and additional
vents cannot be cut in the
foundation or exterior wall eco-
nomically, consider adding a
vapor barrier and mechanical
v e n t i l a t i o n .
� Fungal and insect infestation.
Look for signs of fungal
growth on wood, particularly in
unventilated crawl spaces.

Residential Inspection26
Inspect all foundation walls,
piers, columns, joists, beams,
and sill plates for signs of ter-
mites and other wood inhabit-
ing insects in accordance with
Section 4.7. Also see Appendix
B, Wood Inhabiting Organisms.
� Thermal insulation. Examine
the amount and type of insu-
lating material, if any, above
unheated basements and crawl
spaces. Determine the amount
of insulation required for the
space and whether additional
insulation can or should be
added. Check for adequate
vapor barriers.
� Structural, electrical, plumb-
ing, and HVAC systems.
Understand enough about the
layout of each system to make
an informed inspection of the
remainder of the building’s
interior. A more complete
assessment of these systems
will be performed later.
� Note the type of structural
s y s t e m (wood frame, masonry
bearing wall, etc.). Locate main
support columns and posts,
major beams, and bearing walls.
� Find the main electrical
panel box, if it is in the base-
ment, and note how the branch
circuits are generally distrib-
uted. Note also the type of
wiring that is used.
� Trace the path of the main
water supply line and check
the composition of all piping
materials.
� Observe the general loca -
tion of the heating/cooling
unit, if it is in the basement,
and the general layout of the
HVAC distribution system.
� Locate the access to the
crawl space, check that it is
large enough for a person to
enter, observe the interior of
the crawl space, and if mechan-
ical equipment is located
inside, check that access is
large enough for any required
maintenance.
3.2
Interior Spaces, General
This section deals with inspection
procedures that are common to
all interior spaces, including fin-
ished attics and basements.
Examine the following elements
and conditions of interior spaces:
� Walls and ceilings. Check the
general condition of all sur-
faces, ignoring cosmetic imper-
fections. Look for cracks and
peeling paint or wallpaper.
Note signs of exterior water
penetration or interior leakage.
Whenever possible, probe
behind wallpaper, paneling,
ceiling tiles, and other cover-
ings for problems that may
have been concealed but not
corrected.
Look for sags and bulges in
old plaster work. Gently tap
and push on the plaster; if an
area sounds hollow or feels
flexible, it is a good indication
that the plaster has separated
from its backing. If such areas
Interior clues to structural problems

Residential Inspection 27
are found, it may be best to Large wall and ceiling cracks
replaster or overlay the wall or may indicate structural
ceiling with wallboard. problems. See Sections 4.3
Wall and ceiling cracks are through 4.5 for cracks associ-
usually caused by building set- ated with masonry wall prob-
tlement, deflection, warping of lems and Section 4.7 for cracks
wood structural elements, or associated with structural
small seasonal movements of wood framing problems.
building components due to Inspect drywall-covered
temperature and humidity vari- walls and ceilings by checking
ations. Seasonal movements for nail popping, joint cracks,
will make some cracks regular- and other signs of deteriora-
ly open and close; these may tion or failure, such as rust
be filled with a flexible, paint- stains at fasteners and corner
able sealant, but otherwise can- beads.
not be effectively repaired. Examine paneled walls by
Cracks due to settlement, de- pushing or tapping on the pan-
flection, or warping can be eling to determine if it is se-
repaired if movement has curely attached. Look for de-
stopped, as is often the case. lamination of veneers. If the
Check the heating source in every room. This particular heater, when tested, was
paneling is obviously not origi-
nal, try to look behind it to
see what problems may be
covered up.
Lift suspended ceiling pan-
els and observe above them.
Check the condition of the
original ceiling, if any. Tiled
ceilings should be examined
similarly. On top floors, in-
spect for ceiling penetrations
that may form thermal bypass-
es to the unconditioned spaces
above.
� Exterior walls. In buildings
built after 1960, try to deter-
mine if the exterior walls are
insulated and contain a vapor
barrier. Vapor barriers should
be placed on the interior side
of the insulation in cold cli-
mates and on the exterior side
of the insulation in warm,
moist climates.
� Floors. Examine the
floor’s finish or covering.
Inspect hardwood floors to
determine if they will need
cleaning or sanding. If sanding
is required, be sure to check
(by removing a floor register or
piece of baseboard trim) how
much the floor thickness has
been reduced by previous
sandings. Too much sanding
will expose floor nails and, if
present, tongue-and-groove
joints.
Inspect resilient floors and
carpeting for their overall con-
dition and quality. If they are
to be replaced, check that their
floor underlayment is sound.
If the floor feels springy,
sagging, or unstable, inspect it
in accordance with Section 4.7.
operable and safe.

Residential Inspection28
� Interior doors. Inspect the con-
dition of doors and door
frames including the interior of
entrance doors and storm
doors. Check hardware for fin-
ish, wear, and proper function-
ing. Binding doors or out-of-
square frames may indicate
building settlement. See
Section 4.4.
� Windows. Inspect window sash
and frames for damage and
deterioration. Operate each
window, including storm win-
dows and screens, to determine
smoothness, fit, and apparent
weathertightness. Pay particu-
lar attention to casement win-
dows. When open they are easi-
ly damaged by wind and hinge
damage may keep them from
closing properly. Also carefully
check casement operating hard-
ware to be sure it operates
smoothly and easily. Note the
type and condition of glass in
each window and assess its
effect on energy use. If possi-
ble, determine if the window
has a thermal break frame.
Check for the presence and
adequacy of security hardware.
Examine the functioning of
sash cords and weights in older
double hung windows. Open
windows above the ground
floor (or others not fully in-
spected from the outside) and
check their exterior surfaces,
frames, sills, awnings, and
shutters, if any.
Test: Air infiltration through windows
and doors can be checked by the test
method described in ASTM E783,
Standard Test Method for Field
Measurement of Air Leakage T h r o u g h
Installed Windows and Doors.
The test should be performed by an
experienced technician.
Test: Water penetration through win-
dows and doors can be checked by
the test method described in ASTM
E1105, Standard Test Method for
Field Determination of Water Pene-
tration of Installed Exterior Windows,
Curtain Walls, and Doors by Uniform
or Cyclic Static Air Pressure Differ-
ence. The test should be performed
by an experienced technician.
Consider window-related code
requirements for natural light,
ventilation, and egress capabili-
ty. Most codes require the
following:
� Natural light. Habitable
rooms should be provided with
natural light by means of exte-
rior glazed openings. The area
required is a percentage of the
floor area, usually eight per-
cent.
� Ventilation. Habitable rooms
should be provided with opera-
ble windows. Their required
opening size is a percentage of
the floor area, usually four per-
cent. A mechanical ventilation
system can be provided in lieu
of this requirement.
� Egress. Every sleeping room
and habitable basement room
should have at least one opera-
ble window or exterior door for
emergency egress or rescue.
Egress windows should have a
minimum net clear opening of
5.7 square feet (0.53 m2), with a
clear height of at least 24 inch-
es (610 mm), a clear width of at
least 20 inches (510 mm), and a
sill height not more than 44
inches (1120 mm) above the
floor. Emergency egress or res-
c u e windows and doors should
not have bars or grilles unless
they are releasable from inside
without a key, tool, or special
knowledge.
� Closets. Inspect all closets for
condition and usability. It is
best that they have a clear
depth of at least 24 inches
(610 mm). Check all shelving
and hanging rods for adequate
bracing. Check for proper type
and location of closet light fix-
tures; lights positioned close to
shelves present both a haz-
ardous condition and an
impediment to the use of
shelves.
� Trim and finishes. Examine
baseboards, sills, moldings,
cornices, and other trim for
missing or damaged sections
or pieces. Replacement trim
may no longer be readily
obtainable, so determine if
trim can be salvaged from
more obscure locations in the
building.
� Convenience outlets and light-
ing. Look for signs of inade-
quate or unsafe electrical ser-
vice as described here and in
Chapter 5. Generally speaking,
each wall should have at least
one convenience outlet and
each room should have one
switch-operated outlet or over-
head light. Examine the condi-
tion of outlets and switches
and feel them for overheating.
Make sure they are mounted
on outlet boxes and that light
fixtures are securely attached
to walls or ceilings.
Operate switches and look
for dimmed or flickering lights
that indicate electrical prob-
lems somewhere in the circuit.

Residential Inspection 29
The electrical system will be re-
examined more thoroughly
later in the inspection. Also
check the light switches for
sparks (arcing) when switches
are turned on and off. Switches
that are worn should be
replaced.
� HVAC source. As described
here and in Chapter 7, locate
the heating, cooling, or venti-
lating source for every room. If
there is a warm air supply reg-
ister but no return, make sure
doors are undercut one inch
(25 mm) for air flow.
With the HVAC system acti-
vated, check the heat source in
each room and make sure it is
functioning. The HVAC system
will be more completely exam-
ined later in the inspection.
� Skylights. Examine the under-
sides of all skylights for signs
of leakage and water damage.
Inspect skylight components
for damage, deterioration, and
weathertightness. Operate
openable skylights to deter-
mine their smoothness of oper-
ation, fit, and apparent weath-
ertightness.
3.3
Bathrooms
Examine bathrooms in accordance
with the procedures for other
interior rooms, and additionally
inspect:
� Electrical service. Wherever
possible, switches and outlets
should not be within arm’s
reach of the tub or shower.
Consider installing ground
fault interrupters (GFIs) in the
outlets. See Chapter 5.
Check the condition and
operation of all switches, out-
lets, and light fixtures.
If there is an exhaust fan,
check its operation. It should be
properly ducted to an attic vent
or the building’s exterior.
� Plumbing. Examine all exposed
plumbing parts for leaking or
signs of trouble or deteriora-
tion. Inspect the lavatory for
secure attachment and sup-
port. Check the operation of all
fixtures and decide which fix-
tures and trim should be
replaced.
Check the condition of all
plumbing fixtures by examin-
ing for chipping, scratches,
mold, stains, and other defects.
Check the condition and
operation of the lavatory, toi-
let, tub, and shower.
A common problem in bath-
rooms is leakage around tubs
and showers. If possible, in-
spect the ceiling below each
bathroom for signs of water
damage or recent patching and
painting.
Whirlpool baths should be
operated for at least 20 min-
utes. Check how well a con-
stant water temperature is
maintained. Examine jets for
evidence of mold and mildew
and determine if the piping
should be flushed out.
Determine the flushing
capacity of the toilet. If it is
not a water-saving fixture, con-
sider replacing it with a water-
saving toilet with a 1.6 gallon
(6 L) flushing capacity. Operate
the toilet. Assess its bowl
cleaning ability, especially if it
is a water-saving fixture.
Pressure assisted toilets use
water pressure to compress air
in a tank that makes the 1.5 to
1.6 gallon (5.7 to 6 L) flush very
effective in cleaning the fixture
bowl and preventing buildup in
the soil pipe. Operate the toilet.
Listen for excessive noise from
vibration due to loose pieces of
equipment, check for leaks, and
look for rust on the tank and
p i p i n g .
Check for a faulty shower
pan by covering the shower
drain tightly and filling the
shower base with about an
inch of water. Let stand for at
least an hour, if possible. Look
for signs of water leakage on
the ceiling below. The presence
of excessive sealant around the
shower base or drain may indi-
cate attempts to remedy a
shower pan leak by preventing
water from reaching the pan.
This is only a temporary solu-
tion and the pan should be
properly repaired.
If there is a medicine
cabinet, check its condition
and check its door fit and
operation.
� Tub and shower enclosures.
Check the condition, fit, and
operation of tub and shower
enclosures. Note whether any
glazing is safety glazing, as
required by the building code
for new installation and
replacement.
� Ceramic tile. Look for dam-
aged or missing tiles, or tiles
that have been scratched, pit-
ted, or dulled by improper
cleaning. Check the condition

Residential Inspection30
This kitchen cabinetry is plain but adequate.
of all grouted and caulked
joints. If a portion of the tile is
defective or missing, all tile
may have to be replaced since
finding additional tiles of
matching size, color, and tex-
ture may be impossible.
� Ventilation. The bathroom
should be ventilated by either
a window, an exhaust fan, or a
recirculation fan. Poor ventila-
tion will be indicated by
mildew on the ceiling and
walls.
3.4
Kitchens
Examine kitchens in accordance
with the inspection procedures
for other interior rooms, and
additionally inspect:
� Counters and cabinetry.
Check countertops for cracks
or food traps and examine
kitchen cabinets carefully for
signs of vermin infestation.
Look for missing, broken, or
damaged hardware and cabi-
net parts. Check doors and
drawers for fit and smooth
operation, and wall cabinets
for secure attachment. Com-
pare the cost of replacement
to the cost of reconditioning.
� Electrical service. D e t e r m i n e
the adequacy and safety of elec-
trical service to the kitchen, as
described here and in Chapter
5. As a guide, new residential
buildings are usually required
to have a ground fault inter-
rupter (GFI) of at least one
20 amp/120 volt circuit in all
outlets over a countertop used
for portable kitchen appli-
ances. Separate circuits are
also required for each major
appliance as follows:
Refrigerator 20 amp/120 volt
Dishwasher 20 amp/120 volt
Garbage 20 amp/120 volt
disposal
Range 40 to 50 amp/
240 volt

Residential Inspection 31
Operate all electrical appli-
ances simultaneously, includ-
ing exhaust fans, to determine
that they are connected and
can run steadily without over-
loading their circuits.
� Plumbing. Visually inspect the
condition of the sink for chip-
ping, scratches, stains, and
other defects. Decide whether it
should be replaced. Check
faucets for corrosion and prop-
er operation. Make sure an air
gap exists between the faucet
and the flood rim to prevent
possible back-siphoning. See
Chapter 6.
Turn the faucets on and off
several times and look for
drips and leaks in both the
supply and drainage lines. Fill
the sink and check that it
drains promptly. Operate the
disposal and dishwasher listen-
ing and watching for smooth
operation. Look for leaks in
plumbing connections. Check
for the existence of an air vent
for the dishwasher unless
there is no disposal or unless
the dishwasher pumps to the
top outlet of the disposal.
Check the spray hose. Decide
whether either appliance
should be replaced.
� Ventilation. See that exhaust
fans and range hoods are duct-
ed to the outside and not to a
cupboard, attic, crawl space, or
wall. A recirculation range
hood fan is acceptable. Check
the filter medium. Ducts,
hoods, and filters should be
free of grease buildup.
Operate exhaust fans and
vented range hoods to deter-
mine whether they are func-
tional and whether they should
be kept or replaced.
3.5
Storage Spaces
Inspect all closets and other stor-
age spaces for cleanliness, func-
tionality, proper lighting, and
means of adequate ventilation.
The rotted supports beneath this stair were repaired by scabbing on small blocks of wood, which is insufficient. The supports should be
replaced and the source of moisture investigated.

Residential Inspection32
3.6
Stairs and Hallways
Inspect stairs and hallways as
follows:
� Light. Stairs and hallways
should be well lighted and
have three-way light controls.
Public stair and hallway lights
in multifamily buildings should
be operated from centralized
house controls.
Check the operation of all
stair and hallway lights.
� Smoke detectors. Stairs and
hallways are the appropriate
location for smoke detectors.
Detectors should be located on
or near the ceiling, near the
heads of stairs, and away from
the corners.
Check the operation of all
smoke detectors by activating
them with a smoke source or
by pushing their test buttons.
� Stair handrails and guardrails.
Handrails are normally
required to be 34 to 38 inches
(865 to 965 mm) above the
stair nosing on at least one
side of all stairs with three or
more risers. Guardrails are
required on open sides of stair-
ways and should have interme-
diate rails that will not allow
the passage of an object
4 inches (100 mm) in diameter.
Shake all railings vigorously to
check their stability and
inspect their fastenings.
� Stair treads and risers. Check
that all treads are level and
secure. Riser heights and tread
depths should be, respectively,
as uniform as possible. As a
guide, stairs in new residential
buildings must have a
maximum riser of 7-3/4 inches
(197 mm) and a minimum
tread of 10 inches (254 mm).
Inspect the condition and fas-
tening of all stair coverings.
� Stair width and clearance.
Stairs should normally have a
minimum headroom of 6’-8“
(2030 mm) and width of 3’-0”
(915 mm). For multifamily
buildings, check the local hous-
ing code for minimum dimen-
sions of public hallways and
stairs.
� Structural integrity of stairs.
Check that all stairs are struc-
turally sound. Examine base-
ment stairs where they meet
the floor and where they are
attached to the floor joists
above. See Section 4.7.
3.7
Laundries and
Utility Rooms
Laundry areas and utility rooms
in small residential buildings are
usually located in the basement
or off the kitchen. Inspect them
as follows:
� Laundries. Look for leaks or
kinks in plumbing connections
to the washer and examine
electrical or natural gas con-
nections to the dryer. Inspect
dryer venting and make sure it
exhausts to the outside and is
not clogged or otherwise
restricted. Gas dryer vents that
pass through walls or com-
bustible materials must be
metal.
Examine the laundry tub, if
one exists, and decide whether
it should be replaced. Check its
plumbing and its capacity to
handle discharged water from
the washer.
In multifamily laundry
areas, examine floors and walls
for water damage. The laundry
should have a floor drain.
Determine whether the laundry
is of proper size and in the
proper location for the planned
rehabilitation.
Operate washers and dryers
and observe their functioning.
Listen for noise that indicates
excessive wear. Determine
whether they should be replaced.
� Furnace rooms. Rooms con-
taining fuel-burning equipment
should not be located off a
sleeping room in a single fami-
ly residence, and must be in a
publicly accessible area in a
multifamily building. Check
local code requirements for
applicable fire safety and com-
bustion air criteria.
3.8
Fireplaces and Flues
Inspect fireplaces and flues as
follows:
� Fireplaces. Inspect the firebox
for deterioration or damage. If
there is a damper, check its
operation. Make sure the
hearth is of adequate size to
protect adjacent combustible
building materials, if any. A
depth from the face of the fire-
place of 20 inches (510 mm)
and a width that extends one
foot (305 mm) beyond the fire-
place opening on either side is
a minimum for older fire-
places. Also check local codes.

Residential Inspection 33
Burn some newspaper to
check the draw. Discoloration
around the mantel may indi-
cate a smoky fireplace with
poor draw.
� Flues. Check the flue lining in
masonry chimneys. It should
be tight along its entire length.
Linings should be intact, unob-
structed, and appropriate for
the fuel type. It is difficult to
properly examine flue linings
visually, and a mirror may be
helpful. An obstructed flue can
usually be opened by a chim-
ney sweep, but consult a chim-
ney expert if the integrity of
the flue is in doubt. Analyze
unlined chimneys for the pos-
sible installation of metal lin-
ers. If there is an attic, use it to
examine chimney construction
more closely. See Section 7.2
for clearances around smoke
pipes.
� Smoke pipe connections.
Check that the smoke pipes
from furnaces, water heaters,
stoves, and related devices are
tightly connected to the chim-
ney and that they do not enter
a fireplace flue. See additional
requirements in Section 7.2.
� Ash dump and pit. If the fire-
place has an ash dump at the
bottom of the firebox, check
the operation, fit, and condi-
tion of the door and check the
shaft to the ash pit to be cer-
tain it is unobstructed and not
overflowing with ashes. If the
chimney has an ash pit, check
the operation, fit, and condi-
tion of the pit access door. The
fit should be tight enough to
prevent dust and ash from
escaping.
The structural condition of chim-
neys should be inspected in
accordance with Section 4.6.
3.9
Attics and Roof Truss
and Joist Spaces
Attics are defined here as uncon-
ditioned spaces between the roof
and the ceiling or walls of the
building’s inhabited rooms. In
small residential buildings with
pitched roofs, attics are usually
partially or fully accessible. In
buildings with low-slope roofs,
they may be inaccessible or virtu-
ally nonexistent. Inspect all acces-
sible attic spaces as follows:
� Roof leaks. Look for signs of
water leakage from the roof
above and try to locate the
source of leakage by tracing its
path. This may be difficult to
do beneath built-up roofs or
beneath loosely laid and
mechanically fastened single-
ply roofs, since water may trav-
el horizontally between layers
of roofing materials. Determine
the extent of any damage and
the probable cost of repairs.
� Attic ventilation. Signs of inade-
quate ventilation are rusting
nails (in roof sheathing, soffits,
and drywall ceilings), wet or
rotted roof sheathing, and
excessive heat buildup in
attics. Where attics exist but
are inaccessible, check if
access could be provided
through ceilings or gable ends.
Check for adequate attic venti-
lation by calculating the ratio
of the free area of all vents to
the floor area. Free area of
vents is their clear, open area.
If a vent has an insect screen,
its free area is reduced by half.
The vent free area to floor area
ratio should be 1 to 150. If the
calculated ratio is less, consid-
er adding ventilation, especial-
ly in hot and humid climates.
When an attic also contains an
occupied space, check that the
ventilation from the uncondi-
tioned, unoccupied areas at the
eaves is continuous to the
gable or ridge vents. Also
check that the free area of eave
vents is approximately equal to
the free area of ridge or gable
vents. If ventilation appears to
be inadequate and additional
vents cannot be added eco-
nomically, consider adding
mechanical ventilation.
� Roof truss and joist space
ventilation. Most buildings
with low-slope roofs and some
buildings with pitched roofs do
not have attics. Instead, these
buildings have ceilings at the
bottom of joists, rafters, or
trusses. The truss space and
the space between each joist or
rafter and above the ceiling
needs ventilation. Look for
vents below the eaves and
check to see that the ratio of
free vent area to roof area is
1 to 150. If the calculated ratio
is less, consider adding ventila-
tion. Open one or more of the
vents if possible. Probe the
ventilating cavity to determine
the amount of insulation and
free air space and try to assess
the general condition of the
surrounding building compo-
nents. It is difficult to inspect
for ventilation in these

Residential Inspection34
Methods of insulating and ventilating low-slope roof structures
buildings without removing a
part of the ceiling to measure
the free depth and width of
ventilation space and to deter-
mine whether the truss, joist,
or rafter spaces contain insula-
tion. If there is no evidence of
water damage from condensa-
tion, an intrusive investigation
is usually not warranted. At
ridge, cornice, eave, or soffit
vents, check for the presence
of insect screens. If insect
screens are present, check
their condition.
� Vents. Check the condition of
ridge, gable, cornice, eave, and
soffit vents. Look for rusted or
broken screens and rusted
frames. Make sure openings
are clear of dirt and debris. At
larger ventilation openings on
a building’s exterior and where
louvered grilles are used, such
as at gables, check for the
presence of one-half-inch-
square (13 x 13 mm) 14 or
16 gauge aluminum mesh bird
screen. If there is none or it is
in poor condition, consider
having new bird screen
installed.
� Thermal insulation. Examine
the amount and type of exist-
ing insulating material. Check
to see that insulation faced
with a vapor barrier has been
installed face-side down with
the vapor barrier closest to the
conditioned space, and that
vapor barriers are properly
located between the ceiling and
the first layer of insulation.
Determine the proper amount
of insulation to the attic and
whether additional insulation
is needed. If attic insulation is
placed against the roof sheath-
ing, check for a ventilated air
space between the insulation
and the sheathing. If there is
no air space, check for the
presence of moisture and dete-
rioration of sheathing and
rafters. Ensure that insulation
is held away from recessed
lighting fixtures, and inspect
spaces around vents, stacks,
ducts, and wiring for thermal
bypasses. Inspect attic doors
or access hatches, heating or
cooling ducts that pass
through the attic, and whole-
house attic fans for thermal
bypasses. Check the local juris-
diction for thermal resistance
(R) requirements.

Residential Inspection 35
Methods of ventilating pitched roof structures over habitable spaces
A split ceiling joist or trust chord can be easily repaired by propping it back in place and
attaching new structural pieces to each side.
� Exhaust ducts and plumbing
stacks. Check that all plumb-
ing stacks continue through
the roof and do not terminate
in the attic and that they are
not broken or damaged. Also
check that exhaust ducts are
not broken or damaged and do
not terminate in the attic but
either continue through the
roof, gable, or wall or vent
directly to a ridge vent.
� Structural conditions. Inspect
the roof structure in accor-
dance with Section 4.7.
3.10
Whole Building
Thermal Efficiency Tests
Several whole building tests can
be performed to help evaluate the
thermal efficiency of the building
envelope.
Test: A building pressurization test
can be used to determine air infiltra-
tion and exfiltration. The test is partic -
ularly useful for “tightening up” an
older building. See ASTM E779,
Standard Test Method for Determining
Air Leakage Rate by Fan Pressuriza-
tion. A tracer gas test may also be
used; see ASTM E741, Standard Test
Method for Determining Air Change in
a Single Zone by Means of a Tracer
Gas Dilution. Such tests are usually
performed by an energy specialist or
an HVAC technician.
Test: A hand-held infrared scanner
can be used to detect building “hot
spots” due to interior air leakage or
excessive heat loss through uninsu-
lated building components. This test
should be performed in cold weather
when the building is heated; the
greater the differential between inside
and outside temperatures, the more

Residential Inspection36
accurate the results. Infrared scan-
ners are commercially available; their
use varies by manufacturer. Thermo-
graphy can be used for the same pur-
pose, but it requires much more
expensive equipment and a trained
operator. Thermographic tests should
be performed by an energy specialist,
mechanical engineer, or others with
the proper training and equipment.
3.11
Sound Transmission
Control Between
Dwelling Units
Check the floors and walls be-
tween dwelling units for adequacy
of sound transmission control
using the current building code
for guidance. Floors that separate
dwelling units, and floors that
separate a dwelling unit from a
public or service area should have
an Impact Insulation Class (IIC) of
not less than 45. IIC is determined
in accordance with ASTM E492,
Standard Method of Laboratory
Measurement of Impact Sound
Transmission Through Floor-
Ceiling Assemblies Using the
Tapping Machine. Walls and floors
that separate dwelling units in
two-family residences, and walls
that separate townhouses, should
have a Sound Transmission Class
(STC) of not less than 45. STC is
determined in accordance with
ASTM E90, Standard Method for
Laboratory Measurement of Air-
borne Sound Transmission Loss of
Building Partitions and Elements.
Technical data that identifies STC
and IIC attenuation for different
types of construction is provided
by product manufacturers and
trade associations, such as the
Gypsum Association or the
National Concrete Masonry Assoc-
iation. See the Gypsum Assoc-
iation’s publication GA-530,
Design Data—Gypsum Products,
and the National Concrete Mas-
onry Association’s Tek Note 13-1,
Sound Transmission Class Ratings
for Concrete Masonry Walls.
3.12
Asbestos
Asbestos is a naturally occurring
fibrous mineral used in many
construction products. It is con-
sidered to be a carcinogen. Asbes-
tos has been used in sealant,
putty, and spackling compounds;
in vinyl floor tiles, backing for
vinyl sheet flooring, and flooring
adhesives; in ceiling tiles; in tex-
tured paint; in exterior wall and
ceiling insulation; in roofing shin-
gles; in cement board for many
uses including siding; in door gas-
kets for furnaces and wood-burn-
ing stoves; in concrete piping; in
paper, mill board, and cement
board sheets used to protect
walls and floors around wood-
burning stoves; in fabric connec-
tors between pieces of metal
ductwork; in hot water and steam
piping insulation, blanket cover-
ing, and tape; and as insulation
on boilers, oil-fired furnaces, and
coal-fired furnaces. Use of asbes-
tos has been phased out since
1978, but many older houses con-
tain asbestos-bearing products.
Products containing asbestos are
not always a health hazard. The
potential health risk occurs when
these products become worn or
deteriorate in a way that releases
asbestos fibers into the air. Of
particular concern are those
asbestos-containing products that
are soft, that were sprayed or
troweled on, or that have become
crumbly. The Environmental
Protection Agency believes that so
long as the asbestos-bearing
product is intact, is not likely to
be disturbed, and is in an area
where repairs or rehabilitation
will not occur, it is best to leave
the product in place. If it is dete-
riorated, it may be enclosed,
coated or sealed up (encapsulat-
ed) in place, depending upon the
degree of deterioration. Other-
wise, it should be removed.
A certified environmental profes-
sional should perform the inspec-
tion and make the decision
whether to enclose, coat, encapsu-
late, or remove deteriorated
asbestos-containing products.
Testing by a qualified laboratory
as directed by the environmental
professional may be needed in
order to make an informed deci-
sion. Encapsulation, removal, and
disposal of asbestos products
must be done by a qualified
asbestos-abatement contractor.
For more information consult the
Guidance Manual: Asbestos
Operations and Maintenance Work
Practices, available from the
National Institute of Building
Sciences.

Residential Inspection 37
3.13
Lead
Lead has been determined to be a
significant health hazard if
ingested, especially by children.
Lead damages the brain and ner-
vous system, adversely affects
behavior and learning, slows
growth, and causes problems relat-
ed to hearing, pregnancy, high
blood pressure, nervous system,
memory, and concentration.
� Lead-based paint. Most homes
built before 1940 used paint
that was heavily leaded.
Between 1940 and 1960, no
more than half the homes built
are thought to have used
heavily leaded paint. In the
period from 1960 to 1980,
many fewer homes used lead-
based paint. In 1978, the U.S.
Consumer Product Safety
Commission (CPSC) set the
legal limit of lead in most
types of paint to a trace
amount. As a result, homes
built after 1978 should be
nearly free of lead-based paint.
In 1996, Congress passed the
final phase of the Residential
Lead-Based Paint Hazard
Reduction Act, Title X, which
mandates that real estate
agents, sellers, and landlords
disclose the known presence of 
lead-based paint in homes built
prior to 1978.
Lead-based paint that is in
good condition and out of the
reach of children is usually not
a hazard. Peeling, chipping,
chalking, or cracking lead-
based paint is a hazard and
needs immediate attention.
Lead-based paint may be a
hazard when found on surfaces
that children can chew or that
get a lot of wear and tear, such
as windows and window sills,
doors and door frames, stairs,
railing, banisters, porches, and
fences. Lead from paint chips
that are visible and lead dust
that is not always visible can
both be serious hazards. Lead
dust can form when lead-based
paint is dry scraped, dry
sanded, or heated. Dust also
forms when painted surfaces
bump or rub together, such as
when windows open and close.
Lead chips and dust can get on
surfaces and objects that peo-
ple touch. Settled lead dust can
re-enter the air when people
vacuum, sweep, or walk
through it.
If the building is thought to
contain lead-based paint, con-
sider having a qualified profes-
sional check it for lead haz-
ards. This is done by means of
a paint inspection that will
identify the lead content of
every painted surface in the
building and a risk assessment
that will determine whether
there are any sources of
serious lead exposure (such as
peeling paint and lead dust).
The risk assessment will also
identify actions to take to
address these hazards. The
federal government is writing
standards for inspectors and
risk assessors. Some states
may already have standards in
place. Call local authorities for
help with locating qualified
local professionals. While
home test kits for lead are
available, the federal govern-
ment is still testing their
reliability. These tests should
not be the only method used
before doing rehabilitation or
to ensure safety.
For more information on
lead-based paint consult the
HUD Office of Lead Hazard
Control Web site at http://
www.hud.gov:80/lea.
� Lead in drinking water is a
direct result of lead that is part
of the plumbing system itself.
Lead solder was used in pipe
fittings in houses constructed
prior to 1988. Lead has been
used in plumbing fixtures such
as faucets, and in some older
homes the service water pipe
from the main in the street to
the house is made of lead.
The transfer of lead into
water is determined primarily
by exposure (the length of time
that water is in contact with
lead). Two other factors that
affect the transfer are water
temperature (hot water dis-
solves lead quicker than cold
water) and water acidity (“soft”
water is slightly corrosive and
reacts with lead).
The current federal standard
for lead in water is a limit of
15 parts per billion. The only
way to find out whether there
is lead in the house’s water is
to have the water tested by an
approved laboratory. Two sam-
ples should be tested: water
that has been sitting in the
pipes for at least four hours,
and water that has been
allowed to flow not less than
one minute before the sample
is taken. Tests are inexpensive
($15 to $25).

Residential Inspection38
If there is evidence of lead
in the system, consider having
water tested for lead. If the
house has a water filter, check
to see if it is certified to
remove lead.
For more information on lead in
drinking water call the Environ-
mental Protection Agency’s Safe
Drinking Water Hotline:
1-800-462-4791 or visit the Web
site of the EPA Office of Water at
http://www.epa.gov/safewater.
For more information on lead
hazards in general, call the
National Lead Information Center
clearinghouse: 1-800-424-LEAD.
For the hearing impaired, call TTY
1-800-526-5456.
3.14
Radon
Radon is a colorless, odorless,
and tasteless gas that is present
in varying amounts in the ground
and in water. Radon is produced
by the natural radioactive decay
of uranium deposits in the earth.
Prolonged exposure to radon in
high concentrations can cause
cancer. The EPA has set guide-
lines for radon levels in residen-
tial buildings.
� Airborne radon. The EPA rec-
ommends that mitigation mea-
sures be undertaken in resi-
dential buildings when radon
concentrations are 4 picocuries
per liter (4 pCi/L) of air and
above.
The radon concentration in
a house varies with time and is
affected by the uranium-
radium content in the soil, the
geological formation beneath
the house, the construction of
the house, rain, snow, baro-
metric pressure, wind, and
pressure variations caused by
the periodic operation of
exhaust fans, heating systems,
fireplaces, attic fans, and range
fans. Radon concentrations are
variable and may be high in
one house and low in an adja-
cent house. To determine if a
house has a radon problem, it
must be tested.
Test: A long-term test is the most
accurate method of determining the
average annual radon concentration.
However, because time is usually
limited, there is a three- to seven-day
test that uses a charcoal canister. It is
available from most home do-it-your-
self stores or through radon testing
service companies.
� Waterborne radon. A house’s
domestic water supply from its
well can contain radon. There
are locations with well water
containing 40,000 or more
pCi/L. The health problems
from drinking water with
radon are insignificant com-
pared to breathing airborne
radon, but radon can be re-
leased into the air when water
is run into a plumbing fixture
or during a shower. It takes a
high concentration of radon in
water to produce a significant
concentration in the large vol-
ume of air in a house. While
there is no maximum estab-
lished at this time for radon in
water, consider removing
radon at the water service
entrance when the level
exceeds 10,000 pCi/L.
Test: Private well water testing is nor-
mally not a part of radon testing.
Therefore, if the house has a private
well, consult the local health depart-
ment to determine whether water test-
ing in the house’s area is recom-
mended. How this is to be done
should be determined by a listed
radon mitigation contractor.
If a building is found to have a
radon problem, consult a certified
radon mitigation contractor who
has met the requirements for list-
ing under the EPA’s Radon Con-
tractor Proficiency Program about
mitigation procedures.
For more information on radon
mitigation see Ventilation for Soil
Gases, chapter 7 in The Rehab
Guide, Volume 1, Foundations,
available from HUD or full text
online at http://www.pathnet.org.
3.15
Tornado Safe Room
If a building is located in a
tornado-risk area, and if it has a
tornado shelter or safe room, it
should be investigated by a struc-
tural engineer for structural
adequacy.

Residential Inspection 39
4
Structural System
Small residential buildings do not
have for the most part inherent
structural problems. Even many
19th-century buildings, that often
show signs of settlement, may
have only minor structural faults
that can be readily remedied.
Major structural problems, when
they do occur, are usually quite
obvious. It is the less obvious
problems that require careful in-
spection and informed diagnosis.
Such problems are often detected
through a pattern of symptoms
rather than any one symptom.
This chapter describes signs of
structural distress, deterioration,
and damage by material type:
masonry (the most difficult to
assess), wood, iron and steel, and
concrete. If applicable, also refer
to Appendix A, The Effects of Fire
on Structural Systems, and
Appendix B, Wood Inhabiting
Organisms.
4.1
Seismic Resistance
If the building is in seismic zones
2B, 3, and 4 (California, Idaho,
Nevada, Oregon, Washington, and
portions of Alaska, Arizona, Ark-
ansas, Hawaii, Missouri, Montana,
New Mexico, Utah, and Wyoming),
have a structural engineer check
the following conditions for struc-
tural vulnerability. Note that
wood frame buildings with brick
or stone veneer are still consid-
ered wood frame.
Figure 4.1
Assessing Structural Capacity
Unless there is obvious overloading, significant deterioration
of important structural components, or additional loading is
anticipated, there is usually little need to verify the building’s
structural design or to recompute its structural capacity. A
thorough visual inspection of its structural components is all
that is normally necessary. On some occasions, however, ceil-
ings or other building elements may have to be opened for a
selective inspection of critical structural members. A suffi-
cient number of members must be examined to afford a rea-
sonable assurance that they are representative of the total
structure.
Test: A laboratory test may be helpful in determining the strength of a
masonry wall section or some other structural component. A represen-
tative sample of the material or component in question must be
removed from the structure for the test, which should be performed
under the guidance of a qualified structural engineer and conducted by
a certified testing laboratory. Refer to the ASTM tests listed in Sections
4.3, 4.8, and 4.9.
If doubt remains about the building’s structural capacity
after visual inspection, laboratory tests may be the next step.
Also, if the building’s structural loading is to be dramatically
increased during its rehabilitation by such things as a water
bed, stone kitchen countertop, tile flooring, or heavy stove
and oven, a quantitative analysis should be made of all the
structural members involved. Simple calculations may be
made in accordance with Ambrose’s Simplified Engineering
for Architects and Builders or, when wood-supported spans
are involved, the use of the span tables in CABO One- and
Two-Family Dwelling Code, the International Residential Code
for One- and Two-Family Dwellings, or the local building
code may be sufficient. More complex calculations should be
performed by a qualified structural engineer in accordance
with ASCE 11, Guideline for Structural Condition Assessment
of Existing Buildings.
� Wood frame buildings that are
not physically anchored to
their foundations. Such build-
ings may be vulnerable to
shifting or sliding.
� Wood frame buildings and
wood-framed portions (porch-
es, for example) or other build-
ings when they are supported
above ground on either short

Residential Inspection40
wood studs (cripple walls) or
on piers of stone, masonry, or
concrete. Such buildings may
be vulnerable to tilting or
falling over.
� Unreinforced and inadequate-
ly reinforced masonry build-
ings. Such buildings may be
vulnerable to total or partial
collapse due to inadequate
reinforcement or to inadequate
anchorage of roofs and walls
to the floors. Use as a refer-
ence Seismic Strengthening
Provisions for Unreinforced
Masonry Bearing Wall
Buildings, Appendix Chapter 1
of the Uniform Code for
Building Conservation.
� Buildings of any type that
have irregular shapes. Such
buildings may be vulnerable to
partial collapse.
� Wood frame and masonry
buildings with more than one
story above grade where the
story at grade is a large unob-
structed open space, such as a
garage. Such buildings may be
vulnerable to collapse of the
story at grade.
� Wood frame and masonry
buildings with more than one
story above grade that are
constructed on sloping hill-
sides, and buildings of any
type of construction and
height that are constructed on
steep slopes of 20 ºF (-7 ºC) or
more. Such buildings may be
vulnerable to sliding.
If the building is in seismic zone
2A (Connecticut, Massachusetts,
Rhode Island, South Carolina, and
portions of Georgia, Illinois, Ind-
iana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maine,
New Hampshire, New Jersey, New
York, North Carolina, Oklahoma,
Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Ver-
mont, and Virginia) and has more
than two stories above grade,
consider having a structural engi-
neer check for the last two condi-
tions (large unobstructed open
space at grade and sloped sites).
Buildings not of wood frame or
masonry construction, such as
stone, adobe, log, and post and
beam structures, as well as build-
ings with more than one type of
construction in any seismic zone,
should be investigated by a struc-
tural engineer to determine their
seismic vulnerability.
Masonry bearing wall buildings in
seismic zones 2B, 3, and 4 should
be investigated by a structural
engineer for the presence of rein-
forcing steel. Use as a reference
Seismic Strengthening Provisions
for Unreinforced Masonry Bearing
Wall Buildings, Appendix Chapter
1 of the Uniform Code for Build-
ing Conservation.
Have a structural engineer check
the anchorage of wood framed
structures to their foundations
and investigate all such structures
supported on cripple walls or
piers in seismic zones 2, 3, and 4.
In all seismic zones, a structural
engineer should investigate build-
ings with more than one story
above grade where the story at
grade is a large unobstructed
open space or the building is on a
sloping hillside and in seismic
zones 2B, 3, and 4, buildings with
an irregular shape.
4.2
Wind Resistance
The coasts of the Gulf of Mexico,
the south- and mid-Atlantic coast,
the coastal areas of Puerto Rico,
the U.S. Virgin Islands and Hawaii
as well as the U.S. territories of
American Samoa and Guam are
vulnerable to hurricanes in the
late summer and early fall. Hur-
ricanes are large, slow moving,
damaging storms characterized
by gusting winds from different
directions, rain, flooding, high
waves, and storm surges. Winter
storms along the mid- and north-
Atlantic coast can be more dam-
aging than hurricanes because of
their greater frequency, longer
duration, and high erosion im-
pacts on the coastline. Even in
states not normally considered
susceptible to extreme wind
storms, there are areas that exper-
ience dangerously high winds.
These areas are typically near
mountain ranges and include the
Pacific Northwest coast. Other
extreme wind areas include the
plains states, which are especially
subject to tornadoes.
In addition to the direct effects of
high winds and winter on build-
ings, hurricanes and other severe
storms generate airborne debris
that can damage buildings.
Debris, such as small stones, tree
branches, roof shingles and tiles,
building parts and other objects,
is picked up by the wind and
moved with enough force to dam-
age and even penetrate windows,
doors, walls, and roofs. When a
building’s exterior envelope is
breached by debris, the building
can become pressurized,

Residential Inspection 41
subjecting its walls and roof to
much higher damaging wind pres-
sures. In general, the stronger the
wind, the larger and heavier the
debris it can carry and the greater
the risk of severe damage.
If the building is in a hurricane or
high-wind region, have a structur-
al engineer check its structural
system for continuity of load
path, including resistance to uplift
forces. If there is an accessible
attic, check for improper attach-
ment of the roof sheathing to the
roof framing members by looking
for unengaged or partially
engaged nails. Check for the
presence of hurricane hold-down
clips for joists, rafters, and truss-
es at the exterior wall. Examine
the gable end walls and the roof
trusses for lateral bracing. Check
to see whether the exterior
wall and other load-bearing walls
are securely attached to the
f o u n d a t i o n .
4.3
Masonry, General
All exposed masonry should be
inspected for cracking, spalling,
bowing (bulges vertically), sweep-
ing (bulges horizontally), leaning,
and mortar deterioration. Before
beginning a detailed masonry
inspection, determine which walls
are load-bearing and which are
not. Usually this can be done by
examining the beams and joists in
the building’s basement or crawl
space or attic. Note also whether
the walls are solid masonry or
masonry cavity, or whether they
are non-structural brick or stone
veneer. The overall quality of the
building’s construction, and often
A common masonry wall crack probably caused by thermal or moisture expansion. If
possible, monitor such cracks over a period of time to see if they’re active. Active cracks
should be sealed with a flexible sealant; inactive cracks may be pointed.
that of its neighborhood, will be a
good indicator of the condition of
its masonry.
There may be a substantial differ-
ence in the masonry walls in
buildings built during the last 40
to 50 years compared to those
constructed earlier. Walls became
thinner as designers began to
exploit more effectively the com-
pressive strength of masonry by
using higher strength masonry
materials and mortars. This
change came at the expense of
flexibility as such walls are often
more brittle than their massive
ancestors and, therefore, more
subject to stress-induced damage.
Tests: Two methods of testing are
sometimes useful for assessing
masonry. Probe holes can be drilled
through the joints or masonry units
with a masonry bit and probed with a
stiff wire (or, if available, a fiber optic
device) to determine a wall’s thick-
ness and the adequacy of its mortar.
The probe holes are patched after the
investigation has been completed. A
hammer test can be used to deter-
mine the structural soundness of
masonry units and their bond to the
mortar. The masonry is tapped lightly
with a hammer and the resonance of
the sound produced is evaluated. Two
tests may also be useful: ASTM
E518, Standard Test Methods for
Flexural Bond Strength of Masonry ,
and ASTM E519, Standard Test
Method for Diagonal Tension (Shear)
in Masonry Assemblages. See a qual-
ified masonry consultant for the
proper use of these tests on existing
masonry.

Residential Inspection42
The brick shown here is highly spalled from
the effects of excessive moisture penetra-
tion and subsequent freezing. The damage
cannot be repaired, although individual
bricks can be replaced and the mortar
pointed. The new mortar should be of the
same composition as the old.
� Masonry cracking. Although
masonry can deform elastically
over long periods of time to
accommodate small amounts
of movement, large movements
normally cause cracking.
Cracks may appear along the
mortar joints or through the
masonry units. Cracking can
result from a variety of prob-
lems: differential settlement of
foundations, drying shrinkage
(particularly in concrete block),
expansion and contraction due
to ambient thermal and mois-
ture variations, improper sup-
port over openings, the effects
of freeze-thaw cycles, the
Building settlement due to cut and fill excavation
Differential settlement caused by variable soil types
corrosion of iron and steel wall
reinforcement, differential
movement between building
materials, expansion of salts,
and the bulging or leaning of
walls. These problems are more
fully discussed in Sections 4.4
and 4.5.
Cracks should always be
evaluated to determine their
cause and whether corrective
action is required. Look for

Residential Inspection 43
Evidence of frost heaving
An extreme case of structural failure in a masonry wall due to foundation settlement. The wall
and foundation must be completely rebuilt.
signs of movement. A clean
crack indicates recent move-
ment; a dirty or previously
filled crack may be inactive
(a pocket lens may be useful
for such an examination).
Correlate the width of larger
cracks to the age of the build-
ing. A one-half-inch crack in a
new building may be a sign of
rapid settlement, but in a
building 50 years old, it may
indicate a very slow movement
of only 1/100 of an inch
(0.25 mm) per year. In each
case the cause and treatment
may differ.
Test: Crack movement can be mea-
sured with a commercially available
joint movement indicator. This device
is temporarily fastened over the crack
and a scribe records movement over
a period of time. Cyclical movements
may take six months or more to mea-
sure, but diurnal movements can be
recorded over a few days. Hand
measurements can also be made of
crack movements, but these will be
less precise and require repeated
field visits.
Cracks associated with thermal
expansion and contraction may
open and close with the sea-
son. These are cyclical cracks,
which may gradually expand as
accumulating mortar debris
jams them farther apart after
each cycle. Such cracks should
be cleaned and protected by
flexible sealants; remortaring
cyclical cracks will hold them
open and cause more cracking.
When there are masonry
problems, it is advisable to
procure the services of a struc-
tural engineer. If problems
appear to be due to differential

Residential Inspection44
settlement, a soils engineer
also may be required.
� Mortar deterioration. The two
important qualities of mortar
are its ability to bond to
masonry and its internal
strength. A sign of poorly
made mortar may be random
cracking at the bond joint.
Until about the end of the 19th
century, the standard mortar
for masonry was a mixture of
sand and pure lime or lime-
possolan-sand. These low
strength mortars gave masonry
the ability to absorb consider-
able strain. Accordingly, the
tendency to crack was reduced
and when cracks did appear in
the mortar joints, they were to
a great extent capable of chem-
ical reconstitution or “self heal-
ing.” Thus, the age of the
building may be a good clue in
evaluating its mortar problems.
Older mortar (or mortar of any
age that uses hydrated lime)
will be softer and may require
pointing, but otherwise may be
responsible for a sound wall.
Most often, mortar deterio-
ration is found in areas of ex-
cessive moisture, such as near
leaking downspouts, below
windows, and at tops of walls.
In such cases the remedy is to
redirect the water flow and
point the joints. Pointing
should be performed with mor-
tar of a composition similar to
or compatible with the original
mortar. The use of high
strength mortar to point mor-
tar of a lower strength can do
serious damage to the masonry
since the pointing can’t “flex”
with or act in a similar way to
the rest of the joint. It is useful
to remember that mortar acts
as a drainage system to equal-
ize hydrostatic pressure within
the masonry. Nothing should
be done to reduce its porosity
and thereby block water flow
to the exterior surface.
Test: To determine the composition
(percentage of lime and other materi-
als) of existing mortar, remove a sam-
ple and have it chemically analyzed
by a testing laboratory. This should be
done under the supervision of a quali-
fied structural engineer.
� Deterioration of brick
masonry units. The spalling,
dusting, or flaking of brick
masonry units may be due to
either mechanical or chemical
damage. Mechanical damage is
caused by moisture entering
the brick and freezing, result-
ing in spalling of the brick’s
outer layers. Spalling may con-
tinue or may stop of its own
accord after the outer layers
that trapped the interior mois-
ture have broken off. Chemical
damage is due to the leaching
of chemicals from the ground
into the brick, resulting in
internal deterioration. External
signs of such deterioration are
a dusting or flaking of the
brick.
Very little can be done to
correct existing mechanical
and chemical damage except to
replace the brick. Mechanical
deterioration can be slowed or
stopped by directing water
away from the masonry sur-
face and by pointing mortar
joints to slow water entry into
the wall. Surface sealants
(damp proofing coatings) are
rarely effective and may hasten
deterioration by trapping mois-
ture or soluble salts that inev-
itably penetrate the wall and in
turn cause further spalling.
Chemical deterioration can be
slowed or stopped by adding a
damp proof course (or inject-
ing a damp proofing material)
into the brick wall just above
the ground line. Consult a
masonry specialist for this type
of repair.
4.4
Masonry Foundations
and Piers
Inspect stone, brick, concrete, or
concrete block foundations for
signs of the following problems
(this may require some digging
around the foundation):
� Problems associated with dif-
ferential settlement. Uneven
(differential) settlement can be
a major structural problem in
small residential buildings,
although serious settlement
problems are relatively uncom-
mon. Many signs of masonry
distress are incorrectly diag-
nosed as settlement-related
when in fact they are due to
moisture and thermal
movements.
Indications of differential
settlement are vertical distor-
tion or cracking of masonry
walls, warped interior and exte-
rior openings, sloped floors,
and sticking doors and win-
dows. Settlement most often
occurs early in the life of a
building or when there is a
dramatic change in under-
ground conditions. Often such

Residential Inspection 45
settlement is associated with
improper foundation design,
particularly inadequate footers
and foundation walls. Other
causes of settlement are:
� soil consolidation under the
footings
� soil shrinkage due to the
loss of moisture to nearby
trees or large plants
� soil swelling due to inade-
quate or blocked surface or
house drainage
� soil heaving due to frost or
excessive root growth
� gradual downward drift of
clay soils on slopes
� changes in water table level
� soil erosion around footers
from poor surface drainage,
faulty drains, leaking water
mains or other underground
water movements (occasional-
ly, underground water may
scour away earth along only
one side of a footer, causing its
rotation and the subsequent
buckling or displacement of
the foundation wall above)
� soil compaction or move-
ment due to vibration from
heavy equipment, vehicular
traffic, or blasting, or from
ground tremors (earthquakes).
Gradual differential settlement
over a long period of time may
produce no masonry cracking
at all, particularly in walls with
older and softer bricks and
high lime mortars; the wall will
elastically deform instead.
More rapid settlements, how-
ever, produce cracks that
taper, being largest at one end
and diminishing to a hairline at
This pier has been overstressed by movement of the porch and column. The entire assembly
should be rebuilt.
the other, depending on the
direction and location of settle-
ment below the wall. Cracking
is most likely to occur at cor-
ners and adjacent to openings,
and usually follows a rough
diagonal along mortar joints
(although individual masonry
units may be split). Settlement
cracks (as opposed to the
similar-appearing shrinkage
cracks that are especially
prevalent in concrete block)
may extend through contigu-
ous building elements such as
floor slabs, masonry walls
above the foundation, and inte-
rior plaster work. Tapering
cracks, or cracks that are near-
ly vertical and whose edges do
not line up, may occur at the
joints of projecting bay

Residential Inspection46
windows, porches, and addi-
tions. These cracks indicate
differential settlement due to
inadequate foundations or
piers under the projecting
element.
Often settlement slows a
short time after construction
and a point of equilibrium is
reached in which movement no
longer occurs. Minor settle-
ment cracking is structurally
harmful only if long-term
moisture leakage through the
cracks adversely affects build-
ing elements. Large differential
settlements, particularly
between foundation walls and
interior columns or piers, are
more serious because they will
cause movements in contigu-
ous structural elements such
as beams, joists, floors, and
roofs that must be evaluated
for loss of bearing and, occa-
sionally, fracture.
Should strengthening of the
foundation be required, it can
be accomplished by the addi-
tion of new structural ele-
ments, such as pilasters, or by
pressure-injecting concrete
epoxy grout into the founda-
tion wall. If movement contin-
ues and cracking is extensive,
it is possible that the problem
can only be rectified by under-
pinning. Older buildings with
severe settlement problems
may be very costly to repair.
Seek the advice of a structural
or soils engineer in such cases.
� Problems associated with
masonry piers. Masonry piers
are often used to support
internal loads on small resi-
dential buildings or to support
The effect of soil pressure on foundation walls
projecting building elements
such as bay windows, porches,
and additions. In some cases
they support the entire struc-
ture. Piers often settle differen-
tially and over a long period of
time (particularly when they
are exposed to the weather)
they tend to deteriorate. Com-
mon problems are:
� Settlement or rotation of
the pier footing, which causes
a lowering or tilting of the pier
and subsequent loss of bearing
capacity. Wood frame struc-
tures adjust to this condition
by flexing and redistributing
their loads or by sagging (see
Section 4.7). Masonry walls
located over settled piers will
crack.
� Frost heaving of the footing
or pier, a condition caused by
the lack of an adequate footing
or one of insufficient depth.
This will result in raising or
tilting the pier, and in structur-
al movement above it similar
to that caused by settlement or
rotation of the footing. Such a
condition is most common
under porches.
� Physical deterioration of the
pier due to exposure, poor
construction, or overstressing.
Above-ground piers exposed to
the weather are subject to
freeze-thaw cycles and subse-
quent physical damage. Piers
for many older residential
structures are often of poorly
constructed masonry that dete-
riorates over the years. A sign
of overstressing of piers is ver-
tical cracking or bulging.
� Loss of bearing of beams,
joists, or floors due to the
above conditions or due to
movements of the structure
itself.
Piers should be examined
for plumbness, signs of

Residential Inspection 47
results in patterns of cracking
similar to that caused by dif-
ferential settlement: tapering
cracks that widen as they move
diagonally upward. These
cracks usually form during the
building’s first year, and in
existing buildings will appear
as “old” cracks and exhibit no
further movement. Although
such cracks are often mistaken
for settlement cracks, shrink-
age cracks usually occur in the
middle one-third of the wall
and the footer beneath them
remains intact. Shrinkage
cracking is rarely serious, and
in an older building may have
How backfilling can affect foundation walls been repaired previously. If the
wall is unsound, its structural
integrity sometimes can be
restored by pressure-injecting
concrete epoxy grout into the
cracks or by adding pilasters.
� Sweeping or horizontal crack-
How horizontal cracks relate to foundation wall movement
ing of the foundation walls.
The sweeping or horizontal
cracking of brick or concrete
block foundation walls may be
caused by improper backfilling,
vibration from the movement
of heavy equipment or vehicles
close to the wall, or by the
swelling or freezing and heav-
ing of water saturated soils
adjacent to the wall. Like dry-
ing shrinkage, sweeping or hor-
izontal cracking may have
occurred during the original
construction and been compen-
sated for at that time. Such
distress, however, is potentially
serious as it indicates that the
vertical supporting member
(the foundation wall) that is
carrying a portion of the struc-
ture above is “bent” or
settlement, condition, and their
adequacy in accepting bearing
loads. Check their width to
height ratio, which should not
exceed 1:10. Those that are
deficient should be repaired or
replaced. When appearance is
not a factor (as is often the
case), piers can be supplement-
ed by the addition of adjacent
supports.
� Cracking associated with dry-
ing shrinkage in concrete
block foundation walls. The
shrinkage of concrete block
walls as they dry in place often

Residential Inspection48
“broken.” It may be possible to
push the wall back into place
by careful jacking, and then
reinforcing it with the addition
of interior buttresses or by
pressure-injecting concrete
epoxy grout into the wall. If
outside ground conditions
allow, the wall can be relieved
of some lateral pressure by
lowering the ground level
around the building. When
expansive soils are suspected
as the cause of the cracking,
examine the exterior for
sources of water such as bro-
ken leaders or poor surface
drainage. Suspect frost heaving
if the damage is above local
frost depth or if it occurred
during an especially cold
p e r i o d .
4.5
Above-Ground
Masonry Walls
Inspect above-ground stone,
brick, or concrete block walls for
signs of the following problems:
� Brick wall cracking associated
with thermal and moisture
movement. Above-ground
brick walls expand in warm
weather (particularly if facing
south or west) and contract in
cool weather. This builds up
stresses in the walls that may
cause a variety of cracking pat-
terns, depending on the config-
uration of the wall and the
number and location of open-
ings. Such cracks are normally
cyclical and will open and close
with the season. They will grow
wider in cold weather and nar-
rower in hot weather. Look for
cracking at the corners of long
walls, walls with abrupt
changes in cross section (such
as at a row of windows), walls
with abrupt turns or jogs, and
in transitions from one- to two-
story walls. These are the weak
points that have the least
capacity for stress. Common
moisture and thermal move-
ment cracking includes:
� Horizontal or diagonal
cracks near the ground at
piers in long walls due to hori-
zontal shearing stresses
between the upper wall and the
wall where it enters the
ground. The upper wall can
thermally expand but its move-
ment at ground level is moder-
ated by earth temperatures.
Such cracks extend across the
piers from one opening to an-
other along the line of least re-
sistance. This condition is nor-
mally found only in walls of
substantial length.
� Vertical cracks near the end
walls due to thermal move-
ment. A contracting wall does
not have the tensile strength to
pull its end walls with it as it
moves inward, causing it or the
end walls to crack vertically
where they meet.
� Vertical cracks in short off -
sets and setbacks caused by
the thermal expansion of the
longer walls that are adjacent
to them. The shorter walls
are “bent” by this thermal
movement and crack vertically.
� Vertical cracks near the top
and ends of the facade due to
the thermal movement of the
wall. This may indicate poorly
bonded masonry. Cracks will
tend to follow openings
upward.
� Cracks around stone sills
or lintels caused by the expan-
sion of the masonry against
both ends of a tight-fitting
stone piece that cannot be
c o m p r e s s e d .
Cracks associated with thermal
and moisture movement often
present only cosmetic prob-
lems. After their cause has
been determined, they should
be repaired with a flexible
sealant, since filling such cyclic
cracks with mortar will simply
cause the masonry to crack in
another location. Cracks
should be examined by a struc-
tural engineer and may require
the installation of expansion
joints.
� Brick wall cracking associated
with freeze-thaw cycles and
corrosion. Brick walls often ex-
hibit distress due to the expan-
sion of freezing water or the
rusting of embedded metals.
Such distress includes:
� Cracking around sills,
cornices, eaves, chimneys,
parapets, and other elements
subject to water penetration,
which is usually due to the
migration of water into the
masonry. The water expands
upon freezing, breaking the
bond between the mortar and
the masonry and eventually
displacing the masonry itself.
The path of the water through
the wall is indicated by the pat-
tern of deterioration.
� Cracking around iron or
steel lintels, which is caused by
the expansive force of

Residential Inspection 49
Despite the loss of masonry, this arch is intact and can be repaired with matching bricks.
corrosion that builds up on the
surface of the metal. This
exerts great pressure on the
surrounding masonry and dis-
places it, since corroded iron
can expand to many times its
original thickness. Structural
iron and steel concealed within
the masonry, if exposed to
moisture, can also corrode, and
cause cracking and displace-
ment of its masonry cover.
Rust stains usually indicate
that corrosion is the cause of
the problem. Check to make
sure the joint between the
masonry and the steel lintel
that supports the masonry
over an opening is clear and
Walls that extend above ceiling joists

Residential Inspection50
open. If the joint has been
sealed, the sealant or mortar
should be removed.
These conditions usually can
be corrected by repairing or
replacing corroded metal com-
ponents and by repairing and
pointing the masonry. Where
cracking is severe, portions of
the wall may have to be recon-
structed. Cracks should be
examined by a structural
e n g i n e e r .
� Wall cracking or displacement
associated with the structural
failure of building elements.
Structure-related problems,
aside from those caused by dif-
ferential settlement or earth-
quakes, are usually found over
openings and (less commonly)
under roof eaves or in areas of
structural overloading. Such
problems include:
� Cracking or displacement
of masonry over openings,
resulting from the deflection
or failure of the lintels or
arches that span the openings.
In older masonry walls with
wood lintels, cracking will
occur as the wood sags or
decays. Iron and steel lintels
also cause cracking as they
deflect over time. Concrete and
stone lintels occasionally bow
and sometimes crack.
Masonry arches of brick or
stone may crack or fail when
there is wall movement or when
their mortar joints deteriorate.
When such lintel deflections
or arch failures occur, the
masonry above may be sup-
porting itself and will exhibit
step cracks beginning at the
edges of the opening and
joining in an inverted “V”
above the opening’s midpoint.
Correcting such problems usu-
ally means replacing failed
components and rebuilding the
area above the opening.
Occasionally masonry arches
fail because the walls that sur-
round them cannot provide an
adequate counterthrust to the
arch action. This sometimes
happens on windows that are
too close to the corners of a
wall or bay. In such cases, the
masonry arch pushes the
unbraced wall outward, caus-
ing it to crack above the open-
ing near or just above the
spring of the arch. When this
occurs, the end walls must be
strengthened.
� Cracking or outward dis -
placement under the eaves of
a pitched roof due to failure in
the horizontal roof ties that
results in the roof spreading
outward. The lateral thrust of
the roof on the masonry wall
may cause it to crack horizon-
tally just below the eaves or to
move outward with the roof.
The roof will probably be leak-
ing as well. When this occurs,
examine the roof structure
carefully to ascertain whether
there is a tying failure. If so,
additional horizontal ties or
tension members will have to
be added and, if possible, the
roof pulled back into place.
The damaged masonry can
then be repaired. The weight
also can be transferred to inte-
rior walls. Jacking of the ridge
and rafters is possible too.
� Cracking due to overload -
ing (or interior movement),
which is fairly uncommon, but
may be caused by a point load
(often added during an alter-
ation) bearing on a wall of
insufficient thickness. If the
member has been concealed,
such a problem will be difficult
to investigate. The addition of
interior wall supports or brac-
ing, however, may correct the
source of the problem by
relieving the load.
� Cracking due to ground
tremors from nearby con -
struction, heavy vehicular
traffic, or earthquakes, which
is roughly vertical in direction
and occurs more toward the
center of the building. Build-
ings exhibiting such cracking
should be treated on a case-by-
case basis, since serious struc-
tural damage has possibly
taken place. Consult a struc-
tural engineer experienced in
such matters.
� Bulging of walls. Masonry
walls sometimes show signs of
bulging as they age. A wall
itself may bulge, or the bulge
may only be in the outer withe.
Bulging often takes place so
slowly that the masonry
doesn’t crack, and therefore it
may go unnoticed over a long
period of time. The bulging of
the whole wall is usually due
to thermal or moisture expan-
sion of the wall’s outer surface,
or to contraction of the inner
withe. This expansion is not
completely reversible because
once the wall and its associat-
ed structural components are
“pushed” out of place, they can
rarely be completely “pulled”
back to their original positions.

Residential Inspection 51
The effects of the cyclical
expansion of the wall are cum-
ulative, and after many years
the wall will show a detectable
bulge. Inside the building, sep-
aration cracks will occur on the
inside face of the wall at
floors, walls, and ceilings.
Bulging of only the outer
masonry withe is usually due
to the same gradual process of
thermal or moisture expansion:
masonry debris accumulates
behind the bulge and prevents
the course from returning to
its original position. In very old
buildings, small wall bulges
may result from the decay and
collapse of an internal wood The V3 rule for wall stability
lintel or wood-bonding course,
which can cause the inner
course to settle and the outer
course to bulge outward.
When wall bulges occur in
solid masonry walls, the walls
may be insufficiently tied to
the structure or their mortar
may have lost its bond
strength. Large bulges must be
tied back to the structure; the
star-shaped anchors on the
exterior of masonry walls of
many older buildings are exam-
ples of such ties (check with
local building ordinances on
their use). Small bulges in the
outer masonry course often
can be pinned to the inner
course or dismantled and
rebuilt.
� Leaning of walls. Masonry
walls that lean (invariably out-
ward) represent a serious, but
uncommon, condition that is
usually caused by poor design A bowed brick veneer wall
and construction practices,
particularly inadequate

Residential Inspection52
A deteriorated parapet wall that badly needs repointing. Fortunately, the wall has not yet exhibited serious movement, but it will if left unrepaired.
structural tying or poor foun- When large areas or whole � Cracks caused by wood
dation work. When tilting or walls lean, rebuilding the wall, frame shrinkage, which are
leaning occurs, it is often asso- and possibly the foundation, most likely to be found around
ciated with parapets and other may be the only answer. fixed openings where the inde-
upper wall areas, especially
those with heavy masonry cor-
Test: A wall is usually considered
unsafe if it leans to such an extent
pendent movement of the
veneer wall is restrained. These
nices cantilevered from the
that a plumb line passing through its
cracks are also formed early in
wall. Leaning can produce sep-
center of gravity does not fall inside
the life of the building and can
aration cracking on the end
the middle one-third of its base
be repaired by pointing.
walls and cracking on the inte-
(called the V3 rule). In such an event,
� Bulging, which is caused by
rior wall face along floors, consult a structural engineer.
inadequate or deteriorated ties
walls, and ceilings. Leaning
� Problems associated with
between the brick and the wall
walls can sometimes be tied
brick veneer walls. Brick
to which it is held.
back to the structure and
thereby restrained. In such
cases, the bearing and connec-
tions of interior beams, joists,
floors, and roof should be
examined.
veneer walls are subject to the
forces of differential settle-
ment, moisture- and thermal-
related cracking, and the
effects of freezing and corro-
sion. Common problems pecu-
� Vertical cracking at corners
or horizontal cracking near
the ground caused by thermal
movement of the wall, which
is similar to that in solid
masonry or masonry cavity
liar to brick veneer walls are:
walls, but possibly more

Residential Inspection 53
pronounced in well-insulated
buildings because of the
reduction in the moderating
effect from interior tempera-
tures. Thermal cracks are
cyclic and should be filled with
a flexible sealant. Where there
is severe cracking, expansion
joints may have to be installed.
� Problems associated with
parapet walls. Parapet walls
often exhibit signs of distress
and deterioration due to their
full exposure to the weather,
the splashing of water from
the roof, differential move-
ment, the lack of restraint by
vertical loads or horizontal
bracing, and the lack of ade-
quate expansion joints. Typical
parapet problems include:
� Horizontal cracking at the
roof line due to differential
thermal movement between
the roof line and the wall
below, which is exposed to
moderating interior tempera-
tures. The parapet may eventu-
ally lose all bond except that
due to friction and its own
weight and may be pushed out
by ice formation on the roof.
� Bowing due to thermal and
moisture expansion when the
parapet is restrained from
lengthwise expansion by end
walls or adjacent buildings.
The wall will usually bow out-
ward since that is the direction
of least resistance.
� Overhanging the end walls
when the parapet is not re-
strained on its ends. The prob-
lem is often the most severe
when one end is restrained and
the other is not.
� Random vertical cracking
near the center of the wall
due to thermal contraction.
� Deterioration of parapet
masonry due to excessive
water penetration through
inadequate coping or flashing,
if any, which when followed by
freeze-thaw cycles causes
masonry spalling and mortar
deterioration.
Carefully examine all parapet
walls. Check their coping and
flashing for watertightness and
overall integrity. In some cases,
structurally unsound parapets
can be stabilized and their
moisture and thermal move-
ments brought under control
by the addition of expansion
joints. In other cases, the wall
may require extensive repair or
rebuilding. All repairs should
include adequate expansion
joints.
� Fire damage to brick masonry
walls. Masonry walls exposed
to fire will resist damage in
proportion to their thickness.
Examine the texture and color
of the masonry units and
probe their mortar. If they are
intact and their basic color is
unchanged, they can be consid-
ered serviceable. If they under-
go a color change, consult a
qualified structural engineer
for further appraisal. Hollow
masonry units should be exam-
ined for internal cracking,
where possible, by cutting into
the wall. Such units may need
replacement if seriously dam-
aged. Masonry walls plastered
on the fire side may have been
sufficiently protected and will
have suffered few, if any, ill
effects. See also Appendix A,
Effects of Fire on Structural
Systems.
4.6
Chimneys
Chimneys, like parapets, have
greater exposure to the weather
than most building elements, and
have no lateral support from the
point where they emerge from the
roof. Common problems are:
� Differential settlement of the
chimney caused by an inade-
quate foundation. If the chim-
ney is part of an exterior wall,
it will tend to lean away from
the wall and crack where it is
joined to other masonry. In
some cases, the chimney can
be tied to the building. Consult
a structural engineer.
� Deterioration of masonry near
the top due to a deteriorated
cap that allows water into the
masonry below and exposes it
to freeze-thaw cycles. This cap
is often made of a tapered
layer of mortar, called a
cement wash, that cracks and
breaks after several years.
Check the cap. If it is mortar
and the chimney has a hood,
repair the mortar. If it is mor-
tar and the chimney does not
have a hood, replace the mor-
tar with a stone or concrete
cap. If the cap is stone or con-
crete, repair it or replace it.
Also see Section 2.9.
� Leaning of the chimney where
it projects above the roof due
to deteriorated mortar joints
caused either by wind-induced
swaying of the chimney or by

Residential Inspection54
sulfate attack from flue gases
and particulates within the
chimney when the chimney is
not protected by a tight flue
liner. Deteriorated mortar
joints should be pointed, and
unstable chimneys or those
with a noticeable lean should
be dismantled and rebuilt.
Chimney-mounted antennas
should be removed if they
appear to be causing structural
distress.
4.7
Wood Structural
Components
Wood structural components in
small residential buildings are
often directly observable only in
attics, crawl spaces, or base-
ments. Elsewhere they are con-
cealed by floor, wall, and ceiling
materials. Common signs of
wood structural problems are
sloping or springy floors, wall
and ceiling cracks, wall bulges,
and sticking doors and windows,
although many such problems
may be attributable to differen-
tial settlement of the foundation
or problems with exterior mason-
ry bearing walls (see Sections 4.4
and 4.5).
When failures in wood structural
components occur, they usually
involve individual wood members
and rarely result in the failure of
the entire structure. Instead, an
elastic adjustment takes place
that redistributes stresses to
other components in the building.
A deteriorated chimney cap. Mortar, rather than concrete, is often improperly used (as it was
The four types of problems com-
here) to cap the chimney. The masonry below will eventually deteriorate unless the cap is
monly associated with such com-
replaced.
ponents in small residential

Residential Inspection 55
buildings are 1) deflection and
warping, 2) fungal and insect
attack, 3) fire, and 4) connection
failure and improper alteration.
Inspect for these problems as fol-
lows:
� Deflection, warping, and asso-
ciated problems. Some deflec-
tion of wood structural com-
ponents or assemblies is com-
mon in older buildings and
normally can be tolerated, un-
less it causes loss of bearing
or otherwise weakens connec-
tions or it opens watertight
joints in roofs or other critical
locations. Deflection can be
arrested by the addition of
supplemental supports or
strengthening members. Once
permanently deflected, how-
ever, a wood structural compo-
nent cannot be straightened.
Warping of individual wood
components almost always
takes place early in the life of a
building. It will usually cause
only superficial damage, al-
though connections may be
loosened and occasionally
there may be a loss of bearing.
Look for the following prob-
lems associated with wood
structural components:
� Loss of bearing in beams
and joists over foundation
walls, piers, or columns due to
movements caused by long-
term deflection of the wood
beams or joists, differential
movements of the foundation
elements, localized crushing,
or wood decay. Check the bear-
ing and connections of all
exposed structural elements
that are in contact with the
foundation and look for
Some reasons for column settling
The sagging floor is caused by settlement of a basement support. It may be possible to jack
the floor and its adjacent wall into a level position, but this should be done slowly and
carefully.

Residential Inspection56
symptoms of bearing failure
where these elements are con-
cealed, such as bowing or slop-
ing in the floor above, and
cracking or tilting of founda-
tion walls, piers, and columns.
� Sagging, sloping, or spring -
ing of floors due to foundation
settlement, excessive spans,
cut or drilled structural ele-
ments, overloading, or removal
of supporting walls or columns
on the floor above or below.
Each case must be diagnosed
separately. In older buildings,
columns or walls that helped
support or stabilize the floor
above may have been removed
during a previous alteration;
conversely, partitions, bath-
rooms, kitchens, or similar
remodelings may have been
placed on a floor not designed
to support such additional
loads. Depending on the cir-
cumstances, sagging, sloping,
or springing floors may be any-
thing from an annoyance to an
indication of a potentially seri-
ous structural problem. Check
below the floor for adequate
supports and bearing and for
sound connections between
structural elements. Look for
signs of supporting walls that
have been removed, missing
joist hangars, and for inappro-
priate cuts or holes in joists
for plumbing, electric, or HVAC
lines or ducts. Also look for
signs of insect or fungal attack.
Test: Roll a marble or similar heavy
round object over suspect floor areas
to determine the direction and degree
of slope, if any.A carpenter’s level
also can be used. For large or com-
plex areas, a transit or laser level is
more appropriate.
� Floor sagging near stairway
openings due to gradual de-
flection of the unsupported
floor framing. This is a com-
mon problem in older houses
and usually does not present a
structural problem. Correction,
if desired, will be difficult
since the whole structural as-
sembly surrounding the stair
has deformed. Look for signs
that a supporting wall below
the opening has been removed.
Where this has occurred, struc-
tural modification or the addi-
tion of a supporting column
may be required.
� Floor sagging beneath door
jambs resulting from improper
support below the jamb. This
can be a structural concern. If
needed, additional bracing can
be added between the joists
where the sag occurs, but with
some difficulty if above a fin-
ished ceiling.
� Cracking in interior walls
around openings, which may
be caused by inadequate,
deflected, or warped framing
around the openings; differen-
tial settlement; or on the interi-
or of masonry load-bearing
walls, by problems in the exte-
rior masonry wall. Cracking
due to framing problems is
usually not serious, although it
may be a cosmetic concern
that can be corrected only by
breaking into the wall. See
Sections 4.4 and 4.5 for crack-
ing caused by differential
settlement or masonry wall
p r o b l e m s .
� Sagging in sloped roofs
resulting from too many layers
of roofing material, failure of
fire retardant plywood roof
sheathing, inadequate bracing,
or undersized rafters. Some-
times three or more layers of
shingles are applied to a roof,
greatly increasing its dead
load. Or, when an attic story
has been made into a habitable
space or otherwise altered, col-
lar beams or knee walls may
have been removed. A number
of factors, such as increases in
snow and wind loads, poor
structural design, and con-
struction errors result in
undersized rafters. Check for
all these conditions.
� Failure of Fire Retardant
Plywood (FRP) used at party
walls between dwelling units in
some townhouses, row houses,
and multiple dwellings is not
uncommon. Premature failure
of the material is due to exces-
sive heat in the attic space. On
the exterior, sagging of the
roof adjacent to a party wall
often is evident. On the interior,
check for darkening of the ply-
wood surface, similar to char-
ring, as an indication of failure
that requires replacement of
the FRP with a product of com-
parable fire resistance and
structural strength.
� Spreading of the roof down -
ward and outward due to
inadequate tying. This is an
uncommon but potentially seri-
ous structural problem. Look
for missing collar beams, inad-
equate tying of rafters and ceil-
ing joists at the eaves, or inad-
equate tying of ceiling joists
that act as tension members
from one side of the roof to

Residential Inspection 57
the other. Altered trusses can
also cause this problem. Check
trusses for cut, failed, or
removed members, and for fas-
teners that have failed, been
completely removed, or
partially disconnected.
Spreading can be halted by
adequate bracing or tying, but
there may be damage to
masonry walls below the eaves
(see Section 4.5). It is possible
that the roof can be jacked
back to its proper position.
Consult a structural engineer.
� Deflection of flat roofs due
to too great a span, overload-
ing, or improper support of
joists beneath the roof. This is
a common problem and is usu-
ally of no great concern unless
it results in leaking and subse-
quent damage to the structure,
or unless it causes water to
pond on the roof, thereby cre-
ating unacceptable dead loads.
In both cases, the roof will
have to be strengthened or
releveled.
� Fungal and insect attack. The
moisture content of properly
protected wood structural
components in buildings usual-
ly does not exceed 10 to 15
percent, which is well below
the 25 to 30 percent required
to promote decay by the fungi
that cause rot or to promote
attack by many of the insects
that feed on or inhabit wood.
Dry wood will never decay.
Inspect all structural and
non-structural wood compo-
nents for signs of fungus and
insect infestation, including
wood stains, fungi, termite
shelter tubes, entry or exit
A common location of fungal and insect infestation is where wood door frames touch concrete
or earth at grade.
holes, signs of tunneling, soft
or discolored wood, small piles
of sawdust or “frass,” and
related signs of infestation.
Test: Probe all suspect wood with a
sharp instrument and check its mois-
ture content with a moisture meter.
Wood with a meter reading of more
than 20 to 25 percent should be thor-
oughly examined for rot or infesta-
tion. Sound wood will separate in
long fibrous splinters, but decayed
wood will lift up in short irregular
pieces. See Appendix B, Wood In-
habiting Organisms, for more detailed
i n f o r m a t i o n .
Exterior building areas or
components that should be
checked are:
� Places where wood is in
contact with the ground, such
as wood pilings, porch and
deck supports, porch lattices,
wood steps, adjacent fences,
and nearby wood piles.

Residential Inspection58
� Foundation walls that might
harbor shelter tubes, including
tubes in the cracks on wall
surfaces.
� Frames and sills around
basement or lower level
window and door frames, and
the base of frames around
garage doors.
� Wood framing adjacent to
slab-on-grade porches or
patios.
� Wood near or in contact
with roofs, drains, window
wells, or other areas exposed
to periodic wetting from rain
or lawn sprinklers, etc.
Interior areas or components
to be checked for rot or infes-
tation are:
� Spaces around or within
interior foundation walls and
floors, crawl spaces, piers,
columns, or pipes that might
harbor shelter tubes, including
cavities or cracks.
� The sill plate that covers the
foundation wall, and joists,
beams, and other wood compo-
nents in contact with it.
� Wood frame basement
partitions.
� Baseboard trim in slab-on-
grade buildings.
� Subflooring and joists below
kitchen, bathroom, and laundry
areas.
� Roof sheathing and framing
in the attic around chimneys,
vents, and other openings.
Damage to wood from fungal
or insect attack usually can be
repaired at a reasonable cost
by replacing or adding supple-
mental support to affected
components after the source of
the problem has been correct-
ed. Damage is rarely severe
enough to seriously affect the
structural stability of a build-
ing, although individual
members may be badly deterio-
rated. Consult an exterminator
when evidence of insect attack
is found.
� Fire-damaged wood. When
exposed to fire, wood first
“browns,” then “blackens,”
then ignites and begins to char
at a steady rate. The charred
portion of the wood loses its
structural strength, but the
clear wood beneath does not,
unless it undergoes prolonged
heating.
The remaining strength of
wood exposed to fire can be
determined by removing the
char and estimating the size
and strength of the new cross
section. Damaged structural
members may be reinforced by
bolting additional structural
members in a configuration
that restores their original de-
sign strength. Consult a struc-
tural engineer before repairing
major structural beams or gird-
ers. See also Appendix A,
Effects of Fire on Structural
Systems.
� Connection failure and
improper alteration. Open-web
wood trusses are commonly
used in small residential build-
ings as roof and floor struc-
tures. Those trusses with wood
chords and wood webs usually
use metal plate connectors.
Where there is evidence of
moisture, examine connectors
for corrosion and for loss of
embedment due to distortion
of truss members. Also check
glue laminated timber beams
for delamination where there is
evidence of moisture. Where
possible, examine truss, rafter,
and joist hangers for corrosion
and proper nailing.
Buildings are often altered
incrementally by the addition
of pipes and ducts when unfin-
ished spaces, such as base-
ments and attics, are made
habitable or when kitchens and
bathrooms are remodeled. Ob-
serve joists, rafters, and beams
for holes cut through them,
especially for any size cutouts
at or near their top or bottom.
Observe wood trusses for cuts
through chords and webs of
open web trusses and webs and
flanges of plywood trusses.
4.8
Iron and Steel
Structural Components
Metal structural components used
in small residential buildings are
usually limited to beams and pipe
columns in basements, angles
over small masonry openings, and
beams over long spans elsewhere
in the structure. These compo-
nents are almost always made of
steel, although in buildings erect-
ed before 1890 to 1900 they may
be of cast or wrought iron. While
cast iron is weaker in tension
than steel, when found in small
buildings it is rarely of insuffi-
cient strength unless it is deterio-
rated or damaged.
Problems with iron and steel
structural components usually

Residential Inspection 59
This fire-damaged wood should be carefully probed to determine the extent of charring. In this case, the wood was replaced.
center on corrosion. Inspect them
as follows:
� Lintels and other embedded
metal components in exterior
masonry walls can corrode
and in time become severely
weakened themselves. Rain and
snow often contain carbonic,
sulfuric, nitric, or hydrochloric
acid that lowers the pH of rain
water, thereby accelerating cor-
rosion. Check all embedded
iron and steel to determine its
condition.
Make sure lintels have ade-
quate bearing. Corrosion can
also displace surrounding
masonry; see Section 4.5.
� Columns should be checked
for adequate connections at
Joist notching and drilling criteria

Residential Inspection60
their base and top, and for cor-
rosion at their base if they rest
at ground level. Eccentric (off-
center) loading or noticeable
tilting of columns should be
remedied.
� Beams should be checked for
bearing, adequate connections
to the structure, and deflec-
tion. Bearing can be significant-
ly reduced on pilasters, piers,
or columns in differentially
settled buildings; inspect such
conditions carefully (see
Section 4.4). Beams in small
residential buildings rarely
deflect. If deflection is found,
however, the cause should be
determined and supplemental
supports or plates should be
added to correct the problem.
� Fire damage to iron and steel
structural components should
be carefully inspected. Iron
and steel rapidly lose their
load-bearing capacity when
exposed to fire and will under-
go considerable expansion and
distortion. In general, a struc-
tural iron or steel member that
remains in place with negligi-
ble or minor distortions to its
web, flanges, or end connec-
tions should be considered ser-
viceable. Sagging or bent mem-
bers, or those with a loss in
bearing capacity should be
replaced or reinforced with
supplemental plates.
Test: When the quality or composition
of an iron or steel structural compo-
nent is in doubt, a small sample of the
metal (called a “coupon”) may be
removed from a structurally unimpor-
tant location and sent to a testing labo-
Failure of a concrete lintel and sill due to differential settlement of the building. Permanent
ratory for evaluation. The sample
should be tested in accordance with
repairs will be quite expensive. Note the makeshift shoring of the lintel.

Residential Inspection 61
ASTM E8, Standard Test Methods for
Tension Testing of Metallic Materials,
and ASTM E9, Standard Test Meth-
ods of Compression Testing of Metallic
Materials at Room Te m p e r a t u r e. Such
work should be performed under the
auspices of a structural engineer.
4.9
Concrete Structural
Components
Concrete is commonly used for
grade and below-grade level
floors and for footings. It also
may be used for foundations,
beams, floors above grade, porch-
es or patios built on grade, exteri-
or stairs and stoops, sills, and
occasionally as a precast or
poured-in-place lintel or beam
over masonry openings. Concrete
structural components are rein-
forced. Welded steel wire mesh is
used in floors at and below grade,
patios built on grade, walks and
drives, and short-span, light-load
lintels. All other concrete struc-
tural components usually are
reinforced with steel bars.
Inspect for the following:
� Cracking at corners or open-
ings in concrete foundations
below masonry exterior walls
due to drying shrinkage of con-
crete walls that are prevented
from contracting by the mass
of the masonry above. This
cracking will occur early in the
life of the building. Minor
cracks can be filled with mor-
tar and major cracks with con-
crete epoxy grout.
� Cracking of interior slabs on
grade is usually due to shrink-
age or minor settlement below
the slab. If cracking is near and
parallel to foundation walls, it
may have been caused by the
movement of the walls or foot-
ers (see Section 4.4). Cracking
can also result from soil swell-
ing beneath the slab, a condi-
tion that may be caused by
water from clogged or broken
basement or footer drains.
Rarely is such cracking struc-
turally harmful to the building.
� Cracking of exterior concrete
elements, such as porches,
patios, and stairs, is usually
due to heaving from frost or
nearby tree roots, freeze-thaw
cycles, settlement, or a combi-
nation of these conditions. It is
compounded by the use of
deicing salts. Such cracking
rarely presents a structural
problem to the building, but is
often a practical problem that
can best be remedied by
replacing the concrete and pro-
viding the new work with more
stable support. Cracks in exist-
ing concrete elements that are
not seriously deteriorated may
be cyclical and can be filled
with a flexible sealant.
� Fire damage to concrete struc-
tural components should be
thoroughly evaluated. Concrete
heated in a building fire will
lose some compressive
strength, although when its
temperature does not exceed
550 ºF (290 ºC) most of its
strength eventually will be
recovered. If the concrete sur-
face is intact, it can usually be
assumed to be in adequate
condition. Superficial cracking
can be ignored. Major cracks
that could influence structural
behavior are generally obvious
and should be treated on a
case-by-case basis. Cracks can
be sealed by injecting concrete
epoxy grout. Paints are avail-
able to restore the appearance
of finely cracked or crazed
concrete surfaces. See also
Appendix A, Effects of Fire on
Structural Systems.
Tests: Two specialized tests may
sometimes be useful for estimating
the quality, uniformity, and compres-
sive strength of in-situ concrete. The
first is the Windsor Probe, a device
that fires a hardened steel probe into
concrete. See ASTM C803, Standard
Test Method for Penetration Resis-
tance of Hardened Concrete. The
second test is the Schmidt Hammer,
which measures the rebound of a
hardened steel hammer dropped on
concrete. See ASTM C805, Standard
Test Method for Rebound Number of
Hardened Concrete.
For additional information about
inspecting and repairing concrete,
consult the following publications
from the American Concrete
Institute: ACI 201.1R, Guide for
Making a Condition Survey of
Concrete in Service; ACI 364.1R,
Guide for Evaluation of Concrete
Structures Prior to Rehabilitation;
and ACI 546.1R, Concrete Repair
Guide.

Residential Inspection62
5
Electrical System
Electrical systems for small resi-
dential buildings are usually sim-
ple in concept and layout.
Primary components are the ser-
vice entry, panelboard, and
branch circuits. In unaltered
buildings built since about 1940,
the electrical system is likely to
be intact and safe, although it
may not provide the capacity
required for the planned reuse of
the building. Electrical capacity
can be easily increased by bring-
ing additional capacity in from
the street and adding a larger
panelboard between the service
entry and the existing panel.
Existing circuits can continue to
use the existing panel and new
circuits can be fed through the
new panel.
The electrical systems of small
residential buildings built prior
to about 1940 may require over-
haul or replacement, depending
on rehabilitation plans and the
condition of the electrical system.
Parts of these older systems may
function very adequately and
they can often be retained if the
rehabilitation is not extensive
and the load-carrying capacity is
a d e q u a t e .
A thorough and informed assess-
ment of the electrical system will
determine the extent to which it
can be reused. This assessment
should be conducted only by a
qualified electrician who is expe-
rienced in residential electrical
work.
When universal design is a part of
a rehabilitation, consult HUD pub-
lication Residential Remodeling
and Universal Design for detailed
information about electrical
devices.
Assess the capacity of the build-
ing’s existing electrical service in
accordance with Figure 5.1.
The safety standards for the fol-
lowing assessment procedures are
generally based on the require-
ments of the National Electrical
Code.
5.1
Service Entry
Inspect for the following condi-
tions in the electrical service
between the street and the main
panelboard:
� Overhead wires. Check that
overhead wires from the street
are no lower than 10 feet
above the ground, not in con-
tact with tree branches or
other obstacles, and not reach-
able from nearby windows or
other accessible areas. Make
sure that the wires are securely
attached to the building with
insulated anchors, and have
drip loops where they enter the
weatherhead. Spliced connec-
tions at the service entrance
should be well wrapped, and
bare wires from the street
should be replaced by the utili-
ty company. Wires should not
be located over swimming
pools.
� Electric meter. Check that the
electric meter and its base are
weatherproof, and that the
meter is functional, has not
been tampered with, and is
securely fastened. Advise the
utility company of any prob-
lems with the meter.
� Seismic vulnerability. If the
building is in a seismic zone,
check the electrical service for
vulnerability to differential
movement between the exteri-
or and interior. Look for
flexible connections.
� Service entrance conductor.
Ensure that the service en-
trance conductor has no
splices and that its insulation
is completely intact. If the
main panelboard is located
inside the building, the con-
ductor’s passage through the
wall should be sealed against
moisture. Where aluminum
conductors are used, their ter-
minations at all service equip-
ment should be cleaned with
an oxide inhibitor and tight-
ened by an electrician or
replaced with equal capacity
copper conductors. When it is
necessary to replace an over-
head service entry, have it
replaced with an underground
service entry.
� Type of power available. Not
every jurisdiction provides the
same kind of electrical power.
Philadelphia, for example, has
two-phase electrical power in
some locations rather than the
more common single-phase.
Check with the power company
to determine the characteris-
tics of the power available.

Residential Inspection 63
5.2
Main Panelboard
(Service Equipment)
The main panelboard is the distri-
bution center for electric service
within the building and protects
the house wiring from overloads.
Inspect the panelboard as follows:
� Condition and location. Check
the overall condition of the
panelboard. Water marks or
rust on a panel mounted inside
the building may indicate water
infiltration along the path of
the service entrance conductor.
Panelboards mounted outdoors
should be watertight and tam-
per proof. Panels mounted
indoors should be located as
closely as possible to where
the service entrance conductor
enters the building and should
be easily accessible. The panel-
board should have a workable
and secure cover.
� Amperage rating. The amper-
age rating of the main discon-
nect should not be higher than
the amperage capacity of the
service entrance conductor or
the panelboard. If the rating is
higher (indicating unapproved
work has been done), more
branch circuits may be con-
n e c t e d to it than the service en-
trance conductor is capable of
supplying. This is a serious haz-
ard and should be corrected.
� Voltage rating. The voltage
rating of the panelboard (as
marked on the manufacturer’s
data plate) should match the
voltage of the incoming electri-
cal service.
Figure 5.1
Assessing Electrical Service Capacity
(Ampacity)
To determine the capacity (measured in amperes) of the
building’s existing electrical service at the main panel-
board, check the following:
� The ampacity of the service entry conductor, which may
be determined by noting the markings (if any) on the
conductor cable and finding its rated ampacity in the
National Electrical Code, Table 310-16, or applicable
local code. If the service entry conductor is in conduit,
look for markings on the conductor wires as they
emerge from the conduit into the panelboard. If all con-
ductors are unmarked, have an electrician evaluate
them.
� The ampere rating on the panelboard or service discon-
nect switch, as listed on the manufacturer’s data plate.
� The ampere rating marked on the main circuit breaker
or main building fuse(s). This rating should never be
higher than the above two ratings; if it is, the system
should not be used until it is evaluated by an electrician.
The building’s service capacity is the lowest of the above
three figures. Once the service ampacity has been deter-
mined, compare it to the estimated ampacity the building
will require after rehabilitation. If the estimated ampacity
exceeds the existing ampacity, the building’s electrical ser-
vice will need upgrading. The method for estimating
required ampacity is found in the National Electrical Code,
Article 220.
Similarly, the service capacity of each branch circuit can be
determined by checking the markings on each branch cir-
cuit conductor. If no markings can be found, a plastic wire
gauge may be used to measure the wire size (with the
power disconnected), although an experienced person can
often determine the size by eye. Find the ampere rating of
the conductor, either by its markings or wire size, in the
National Electrical Code, Table 310-16, or applicable local
code.

Residential Inspection64
Typical electrical service entry and main panelboard for a single family residence. This type of
grounding applies only if the water pipe is metal. If the water pipe is plastic, a separate driven
ground rod is required.
Test: The actual voltage rating of the
incoming electrical service can be
checked with a voltmeter. This test
should be performed by an electri-
cian. Usually three service conduc-
tors indicates 120/240 volt current,
and two conductors indicates 120
volt current.
� Grounding. Verify that the pan-
elboard is properly grounded.
Its grounding conductor
should run to an exterior
grounding electrode or be
clamped to the metal water
service inlet pipe between the
exterior wall and the water
meter. If it is attached on the
house side of the meter, the
meter should be jumpered to
ensure proper electrical conti-
nuity to the earth. Make sure
that the ground conductor is
securely and properly clamped
to the pipe—often it is not, and
occasionally it is disconnected
altogether. Ensure also that the
grounding conductor is not
attached to a natural gas pipe,
to an inactive pipe that may be
cut off on the exterior side of
the wall, or to a pipe that is
connected to a plastic water
service entry line. If the ground-
ing conductor is attached to an
exterior grounding electrode
driven into the earth, verify
that the electrode is installed
in accordance with local code.
Many older buildings will have
the ground connected to the
cold water pipe. If this is the
case and the building needs to
conform to the current code, an
alternate ground is required.

Residential Inspection 65
Typical service equipment
Test: An electrical ground (resis-
tance-to-ground) test may be used to
determine whether the electrical sys-
tem is well grounded to the earth.
The test requires the use of an ohm-
meter and should be performed by
an electrician.
� Overcurrent protection. Check
the rating of the fuse or circuit
breaker for each branch circuit.
The amperage of the fuse or
circuit breaker should not
exceed the capacity of the
wiring in the branch circuit it
protects. Most household cir-
cuits use #14 copper wire,
which should have 15 amp
protection. There may be one
or more circuits with #12 cop-
per wire, which should have 20
amp protection. Large appli-
ances, such as electric water
heaters and central air condi-
tioners, may require 30 amp
service, which is normally sup-
plied by #10 copper wire. If
there is an electric range, it
would require a 40 or 50 amp
service with #6 copper wire.
Central air conditioning equip-
ment will have an overcurrent
protection requirement on the
nameplate. Aluminum wire
must be one size larger than
copper wire in each case (e.g.,
#14 to #12), but it should not
be used for 15 and 20 amp
circuits. See Figure 5.1 for
determining wire size.
Make sure that no circuit
has a fuse or circuit breaker
with a higher ampere rating
than its wiring is designed to
carry. Air conditioners and
other equipment with motors
may have circuit breakers up
to 175 percent ampacity of the
conductor rating to allow for
starting current. Look near the
panelboard for an inordinate
number of new or blown fuses,
or breakers taped in the “on”
position. Be suspicious of 20 or
25 amp fuses on household
lighting circuits. These are
signs of frequent overloads
and inadequate electrical ser-
vice. Other indications of over-
loading are the odor of burned
insulation, evidence of melted
insulation, discolored copper
contact points in the fuse hold-
ers, and warm fuses or circuit
breakers.
Test: Flip all circuit breakers on and
off manually to make sure they are in
good operating condition. A commer-
cially available circuit breaker and
resistance tester, which can simulate
an overload condition, can be used to
test each breaker. Such a test should
be performed by an electrician. Note

Residential Inspection66
This knob and tube wiring is in good condition except for a piece of broken insulation (top of photograph).
that this test is not recommended for
computers, VCRs, clocks, and many
similar devices.
Many older residential build-
ings have more than one panel-
board or fused devices. Check
that all supplementary overcur-
rent devices are located in
metal boxes and that they are
not in the vicinity of easily
ignitable materials. All panel-
boards must have covers. It
should be possible to turn off
all electrical power to a
dwelling from a single location.
5.3
Branch Circuits
The oldest types of residential
wiring systems are seldom
encountered today. They include
open wires on metal cleats, wiring
laid directly in plaster, and wiring
in wooden molding. These sys-
tems proved quite hazardous. The
oldest wiring system that may
still be acceptable, and one still
found fairly often in houses built
before 1930, is “knob and tube.”
This system utilizes porcelain
insulators (knobs) for running
wires through unobstructed
spaces, and porcelain tubes for
running wires through building
components such as studs and
joists. Note whether knob and
tube wiring splices are mechani-
cally twisted, soldered, and taped,
as required. Knob and tube wiring
should be replaced during reha-
bilitation; but if it is properly
installed, needs no modification,
has adequate capacity, is properly
grounded, has no failed insula-
tion, and is otherwise in good
condition, it can be an acceptable
wiring system and is still legal in
many localities. Check with local
building code officials. Also check
the terms and conditions of the
home insurance policy in force to
see if knob and tube wiring is
excluded. The greatest problem
with such wiring is its insulation,
which turns dry and brittle with
age and often falls off on contact,
leaving the wire exposed.

Residential Inspection 67
The armored cable and junction box are in good condition and can be reused, even if
the lighting fixture is relocated.
Insulation that can be seen to
have failed also will likely have
failed where wiring is concealed.
If any failed insulation is
observed, the knob and tube
wiring should be replaced.
Other approved wire types
include:
� NM (non-metallic) cable, often
called by the trade name
“Romex,” a plastic covered-
cable for use in dry locations
(older NM cable may be cloth
covered).
� NMC, similar to NM but rated
for damp locations.
� UF (underground feeder), a
plastic-covered waterproof
cable for use underground.
� AC (armored cable), also called
BX, a flexible metal-covered
cable.
� MC (metal-clad cable), a flexi-
ble metal-covered cable with a
green insulated ground
conductor.
� EMT (electrical metallic tub-
ing), also called “thinwall,” a
metal conduit through which
the wires are run in areas
where maximum protection is
required.
Check branch circuits for the
following:
� Marking. The function of each
branch circuit should be clearly
and legibly marked at its dis-
connect, fuse, circuit breaker,
or on the directory on the
panelboard.
� Connected loads. Trace branch
circuit conductors to deter-
mine that their connected load
does not exceed their rating
(e.g., a 30 amp clothes dryer
connected to a 20 amp circuit).
Generally speaking, each
dwelling unit should have two
to four 15 amp circuits for
lighting and convenience out-
lets; two 20 amp circuits for
appliances in the kitchen, din-
ing, and laundry areas; and
separate circuits of appropriate
ampacity for large appliances
such as dryers, ranges, dispos-
als, dishwashers, and water
heaters. See Section 3.4 for
additional kitchen electrical
service information. Check the
size and length of all branch
circuit wiring against the
requirements of the local elec-
trical code. Buildings built
before 1980 may be considered
to have an inadequate number
of circuits because present day
codes require a separate laun-
dry circuit and a separate cir-
cuit for the bathroom recepta-
cle. For air conditioning units,
many local codes will allow one
wire size smaller than called
for in the disconnect.
Test: A voltmeter may be used to
measure voltage drop due to exces-
sive branch circuit length, poor wiring
connections, or undersized wire.
Measurements must be made under
a connected load. This test should be
performed by an electrician.
� Grounding. It is best that all
circuits be grounded to the
panelboard, but this was not
required by the National

Residential Inspection68
Electrical Code prior to 1965.
Do not assume that circuits in
metal cable are grounded with-
out testing each outlet. A l s o ,
do not assume that three-
prong plug convenience out-
lets are connected to ground.
Remove each one to observe
the presence of a connected
ground wire. Check to see
whether GFI (ground fault
interruption) type receptacles
have been installed in laun-
dries, kitchens, and bath-
rooms, and test their opera-
tion. These types of recepta-
cles were not required before
1990, but are easily installed
as replacements.
Test: Commercially available circuit
analyzers can be used for checking
the following circuit conditions: open
ground, open hot, open neutral,
hot/ground reversed, hot/neutral
reversed. Operation of these
analyzers varies by manufacturer.
� Condition and safety. Check
that all wire types and equip-
ment are installed properly in
accordance with good practice.
Check the conductors’ expo-
sure to possible damage or
abrasion. Look for proper fas-
tening, clearance, and frayed or
damaged insulation. Make cer-
tain that all wire splices are
made in work boxes and that
all boxes for splices and
switches have cover plates.
Check all exterior receptacles
to make sure they are of the
waterproof type.
Test: A megohm test may be used for
detecting deteriorated insulation. It
requires a Megger tester and oper-
ates at high voltage. With the electri-
cal service disconnected, branch
circuits should read at least one
megohm to ground. If lights or appli-
ances are connected to the circuit,
readings should be at least 500,000
ohms. This test should be performed
by an electrician. A visual inspection
of insulation on accessible circuits
will usually determine whether addi-
tional tests should be performed by
an electrician.
Look for unprotected wire runs
through ducts and other inap-
propriate areas. Inspect for evi-
dence of “handyman tamper-
ing” (e.g., unconventional
splices), and if found in one
location, expect it to be more
widespread. Check for surface-
mounted lamp cord extension
wiring. It is dangerous and
must be removed. It is best to
remove all unused wiring or
wiring that will be abandoned
during rehabilitation work to
avoid future confusion or
misuse.
� Aluminum wire. Aluminum
wire was used in residential
buildings primarily during
the 1960s and early 1970s.
Inspect with local code require-
ments in mind. Be sure that
aluminum wire is attached only
to approved devices (marked
“CO-ALR” or “ICU-AL”) or to
approved connectors. Problems
with aluminum wiring occur at
connections, so feel all cover
plates for heat, smell for a dis-
tinctive odor in the vicinity of
outlets and switches, and look
for sparks and arcing in
switches or outlets and for
flickering lights. Also check for
the presence of an oxide inhib-
itor on all aluminum wire con-
nections. All such conditions
should be corrected. Alum-
inum wire should not be used
on 15 and 20 amp circuits.
Whenever possible, aluminum
wire and its devices should be
replaced with copper wire and
devices appropriate for copper.
If aluminum wiring is not
replaced, it must be frequently
inspected and maintained.
� Smoke Detectors. Check to see
if buildings have functioning
smoke detectors. Detectors
should be wired to a power
source, and also should con-
tain a battery. Most likely,
buildings built before 1970 will
not have detectors, but they
should be added.

Residential Inspection 69
6
Plumbing System
A thorough assessment of the
plumbing system will determine
the extent to which it, like the
electrical system, can be reused.
Older piping in particular may
require replacement, but other
parts of the system may function
very adequately and can be
retained if rehabilitation is not
extensive. Also see Sections 3.3
and 3.4 for additional plumbing
information.
If the plumbing system appears
to be functioning properly after
checking, consider the effects of
additional loads that may be
imposed on the system by any
rehabilitation that might be
planned for the building.
Assess the capacity of the build-
ing’s existing plumbing system in
accordance with Figure 6.1.
6.1
Water Service Entry
Inspect the following water ser-
vice components:
� Curb valve (also known as the
curb cock or curb stop). The
curb valve is located at the
junction of the public water
main and the house service
main, usually near the street.
Locate it and check its accessi-
bility and condition. The curb
valve is usually the responsi-
bility of the municipal water
department.
� House service main. The
house service main begins at
the curb valve and ends at the
inside wall of the building at
the master shutoff valve. The
main is normally laid in a
straight run between the two
and its location can thereby be
traced. Codes require that the
main be at least 10 feet (3 m)
away from the sanitary sewer
or located on a plane one foot
above it. Mains made of galva-
nized steel last about 20 to 30
years under normal soil and
water conditions, although
joints may leak sooner. If the
building is approaching or
more than 40 years old, con-
sider replacing the main.
Test: Leaks in the main can be
detected by inspecting for unex-
plained sources of ground water over
the path of the main or by listening
with a stethoscope for underground
water flow. Stop all water flow inside
the building before using this device.
If the water meter is located near the
street, leaks in the service main can
also be detected by turning off all
water in the building and watching the
meter to see whether it continues to
register a water flow.
Check the main where it enters
the building; older lines are some-
times made of lead.
Test: If a lead main is found, have the
water analyzed and replace the piping
if lead content exceeds 50 parts per
billion (0.05 ppm).
� Master shutoff valve. A mas-
ter shutoff valve should be
located where the house ser-
vice main enters the building.
If the water meter is located
inside the building, look for
another water meter outside of
the building and two shutoff
valves, one on the street side
and one on the house side. If a
valve appears corroded or
damaged, have a plumber
check to see that it is operable
and not frozen into the open
position. The shutoff valve
should include a bleed valve
for draining the building’s inte-
rior distribution piping.
� Water meter. The water meter
is normally the property of the
municipal water company and
may be located near the street,
adjacent to the house, or with-
in the house. Check the meter
connections and supports, and
inspect for adjacent plumbing
constrictions that may reduce
the building’s water pressure.
If the water meter is located
inside the house, look for two
shutoff valves, one on the
street side and one on the
house side of the meter.
� Seismic vulnerability. If the
building is in seismic zones 3
or 4 (California and portions of
Alaska, Arkansas, Hawaii, Ida-
ho, Missouri, Montana, Nevada,
Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, and
Washington), check the water
service for vulnerability to dif-
ferential movement where the
piping enters the building.
Look for adequate clearance.

Residential Inspection70
Figure 6.1
Assessing Water Supply Capacity
The minimum size of the water service entry should
be approximately as follows:
Number of Size of galvanized Size of type K
dwelling steel pipe copper pipe
units served (NPS/DN) (NPS/DN)
Test: The capacity of the interior water dis-
tribution piping should be checked by run-
ning the water in all the fixtures in a fixture
group (such as a bathroom) and observ-
ing whether water flow is adequate. Wa t e r
flow can be more precisely tested at each
fixture by using a water pressure gauge to
determine the fixture’s pressure in psi, or
by clocking the time it takes to fill a gallon
1 1 to 1-1/4 inch 3/4 to 1 inch
(25 to 32 mm) (20 to 25 mm)
2 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inch 1 to 1-1/4 inch
(32 to 40 mm) (25 to 32 mm)
3, 4 1-1/2 to 2 inch 1 to 1-1/4 inch
(40 to 50 mm) (25 to 32 mm)
The following minimums should generally apply to
fixture supply pipes within the building (these are
code minimums; 15 psi [103 kPa] at each fixture is
preferable to the lower figures listed here):
Minimum Minimum Minimum
pipe size flow rate flow
(NPS/DN) pressure
jug from each fixture (e.g., a kitchen sink
faucet should be able to fill a gallon jug in
24 seconds; that is, 60 seconds divided
by 2.5 gpm).
If the service entry is correctly sized but
water flow is low throughout the build-
ing, the problem will either be the juris-
diction’s water pressure or it will be
somewhere between the building inlet
and the first fixtures on the line. Check
for external restrictions in the supply
main, such as undersized piping (partic-
ularly around the water meter), partially
closed valves, or kinks in the piping. If
there are no apparent external restric-
tions, the piping is probably clogged by
Kitchen sink 1/2“ (15 mm) 2.5 gpm 8 psi
rust and/or mineral deposits and should
(9.5 L/min) (55 kPa)
be replaced. If water flow is low in only
Lavatory 3/8” (10 mm) 2.0 gpm
(7.5 L/min)
8 psi
(55 kPa)
one set of fixtures, examine the fixture
risers in a like manner and inspect
plumbing fixtures for flow restrictors,
Shower 1/2“ (15 mm) 3.0 gpm 8 psi clogged aerators, or malfunctioning
(11.5 L/min) (55 kPa) faucets. If water flow is lower in hot
Bathtub 1/2” (15 mm) 4.0 gpm
(15 L/min)
8 psi
(55 kPa)
water faucets than cold, suspect prob-
lems with the water heater or, more
likely, buildup of rust and mineral
Toilet 3/8“ (10 mm) 3.0 gpm 8 psi deposits in the supply lines, since this
(11.5 L/min) (55 kPa) buildup occurs faster in hot water.
Dishwasher 1/2” (15 mm) 2.75 gpm 8 psi If new fixtures are to be added to the
(10.5 L/min) (55 kPa) distribution system, have a plumber
Laundry 1/2“ (15 mm) 4.0 gpm
(15 L/min)
8 psi
(55 kPa)
determine whether the existing piping
can carry the additional load by check-
ing the size and condition of the piping
Hose bib 1/2” (15 mm) 2.5 gpm 8 psi
(9.5 L/min) (55 kPa)
and calculating the water demands of
the fixture(s) to be added.

Residential Inspection 71
6.2
Interior Water Distribution
All piping, regardless of composi-
tion, should be checked for wet
spots, discoloration, pitting, min-
eral deposits, and leaking or dete-
riorated fittings. Fixture risers
tend to remain in better condition
than supply mains, so their in-
spection is not as critical. The
water flow from all fixtures
should be checked.
Test: To check water flow, run several
plumbing fixtures at once and
observe the flow rate at the smallest
spout. Rusty water indicates that gal-
vanized steel is present somewhere
in the line or, if it only appears from
the hot water side, that there is rust in
the water heater.
Inspect the following water distri-
bution components:
� Distribution piping. Distri-
bution piping consists of sup-
ply mains and fixture risers.
Most supply mains can be
inspected from the basement
or from crawl spaces, but the
fixture risers are usually con-
cealed within walls and cannot
be readily examined. The two
most important factors in
assessing distribution piping
are the piping’s material and
age.
Test: Pressure test any piping
suspected of having leaks.
Typical water distribution system schematic for a single-family residence

Residential Inspection72
Galvanized pipe sections removed from an older house. Mineral deposits and corrosion within the pipe had severely reduced water flow to the
plumbing fixtures.
� Galvanized steel piping is
subject to rusting and accumu-
lating more mineral deposits
than most other piping materi-
als. Depending on the quality
of the pipe and its joints and
the mineral content of the
water it carries, the service life
of galvanized steel piping is
anywhere from 20 to 50 years.
Rusted fittings and rust-col-
ored water, particularly from
hot water lines, are signs of
advanced deterioration. Low
rates of flow and low water
pressure are likely to be
caused by galvanized steel
piping clogged with rust and
mineral deposits. During reha-
bilitation, if galvanized steel
piping is exposed, consider
replacing it.
� Brass piping is of two vari-
eties, yellow and red. Red is
more common and has the
longer service life—up to 70 or
more years. The service life of
yellow brass is about 40 years.
Old brass piping is subject to
pinhole leaking due to pitting
caused by the chemical
removal of its zinc content by
minerals in the water. Often,
water leaking from the pinhole
openings will evaporate before
dripping and leave whitish
mineral deposits. Whitish
deposits may also form around
threaded joints, usually the
most vulnerable part of a brass
piping system. Brass piping
with such signs of deteriora-
tion should be replaced.
� Copper piping came into
widespread use in most parts
of the country in the 1930s
and has a normal service life of
50 or more years. Copper lines
and joints are highly durable
and usually not subject to clog-
ging by mineral deposits. Such

Residential Inspection 73
piping need not be replaced
unless there are obvious signs
of deterioration, leakage, or
restriction of water flow. Leak-
age usually occurs near joints
and at supports.
� Plastic piping (ABS, PE, PB,
PVC, and CPVC) is a relatively
new plumbing material and, if
properly installed, supported,
and protected from sunlight
and mechanical damage, should
last indefinitely. However, there
are several class action lawsuits
pending at this time concerning
polybutylene pipe and fittings
used inside and outside build-
ings. Funds resulting from
these suits are controlled by
local jurisdictions. Check with
local authorities or consumer
advocate groups for details.
Some codes restrict the use of
plastic piping. Consult the local
building official.
Some newer buildings use a
manifold off the water main to
distribute cold water and a
manifold off the water heater to
distribute hot water. From the
manifold, flexible plastic pipes
are snaked through floors and
walls to each plumbing fixture.
Check manifolds closely for
signs of corrosion and leaks.
When testing water flow, all the
fixtures off a manifold should
be run at the same time.
� Lead piping may be found in
very old structures and may
pose a health hazard to build-
ing occupants.
Test: If lead piping is found, have the
water analyzed for lead content and
replace the piping if lead content
exceeds 50 parts per billion
(0.05 ppm).
� Mixed metal piping that is a
mixture of galvanized steel and
copper or brass piping is a
sign of potential trouble and
should be closely inspected for
corrosion due to galvanic
action. Where pipes of dissimi-
lar metals are connected, be
certain a dielectric coupling
separates them. Also, metal
pipes and dissimilar metal sup-
ports need to be separated to
avoid corrosion. Check connec-
tions to plumbing and HVAC
equipment, such as water
heaters and boilers, to be cer-
tain that pipes and connections
are the same metal or, if of dif-
ferent metals, that a dielectric
coupling separates them. No
separation is needed between
metal and plastic pipe.
� Thermal protection. Examine
all water distribution lines for
exposure to freezing condi-
tions and look for signs of pre-
vious water damage from burst
joints or piping. Determine
whether the piping remains
exposed to freezing and
whether any planned rehabili-
tation work will block the mod-
erating effects of the building’s
interior temperature from any
part of the piping. Consider
the costs and benefits of insu-
lating hot water lines during
the building’s rehabilitation.
6.3
Drain, Waste, and
Vent Piping
Determine drain, waste, and vent
(DWV) capacity as described in
Figure 6.2. Inspect the DWV pip-
ing as follows:
� Fixture traps. Fixture traps are
generally U-shaped and de-
signed to hold a water seal that
blocks the entry of sewer
gasses through the fixture
drain. Check all fixture drains
for evidence of water seal loss;
such drains usually emit the
odor of sewer gas. The water
seal in water closets can be
visually verified, while other
fixtures can be checked with a
dipstick.
Test: Refill any empty traps and dis-
charge their fixtures to determine
whether the water seal was lost due
to a plumbing malfunction or through
evaporation due to lack of use. If,
after operation, the traps are again
“pulled,” the problem is caused either
by self-siphonage because of
improper plumbing design, obstruc-
tions in the venting system, or the
lack of a vent. In this case, first check
for the presence of S-traps under the
fixture, which may cause the self-
siphonage and are no longer allowed
by plumbing codes. If S-traps are not
present, thoroughly check the venting
system. Even if all plumbing fixtures
are to be replaced, this assessment
process should be performed to
reveal problems in the overall system.
� Vents. Vents equalize the
atmospheric pressure within
the waste drainage system to
prevent siphoning or “blowing”
of the water seals in the build-
ing’s fixture traps. Vents

Residential Inspection74
should be unobstructed and
open high enough above the
roof to prevent snow closure.
Vents that terminate outside
an exterior wall or terminate
near a building opening (such
as a dormer window) are pro-
hibited by building codes,
although under certain
conditions they may be accept-
able. Check vent lines for dam-
age caused by building move-
ment or settlement or by the
sagging of individual building
components.
Test: Discharge several fixtures simul-
taneously while observing fixture
traps; water movement greater than
one inch in the trap indicates inade-
quate or obstructed venting that must
be corrected. Also, fill a sink, lavatory,
or tub with water and listen to the fix-
ture drain. If a gurgling sound is
heard, it usually indicates a venting
problem.
Typical DWV piping schematic for a single-family residence
Figure 6.2
Assessing
DWV Capacity
The installed capacity of
an existing DWV system
can be estimated by
measuring the size of
each DWV stack and,
using the local plumb-
ing code, finding the
allowable number of fix-
tures that can drain into
it. This is a relatively
simple process.
An S-trap that can cause self-siphonage and loss of the water seal. All such traps should be
replaced.

Residential Inspection 75
� Drain lines. Drain lines direct
waste water from the fixture
trap through the building to
the sewer. Because the waste
drainage system operates by
gravity, drain lines must be of
adequate size and slope to
function properly. Minimum
slope should be 1/8 inch per
foot (1:00) Cleanouts should be
located near the juncture of all
main vertical drain pipes that
enter the building drain. Check
for low spots on long horizon-
tal runs caused by inadequate
support, and for damage or
distress caused by building set-
tlement or movement. Check
also for drains with pipes of
dissimilar metals that are not
Figure 6.3
Assessing Hot Water Heater Capacity
Water heater capacity is determined by the heater’s storage
capacity and its recovery rate, or the time it takes to reheat
the water in its tank. Recovery rates vary with the type of
fuel used. Generally, gas- or oil-fired heaters have a high
recovery rate and electric heaters have a low recovery rate.
Low recovery rates can be compensated for by the provision
of larger storage capacity.
Water heaters are sized according to the number of people
living in the house and the type of heat source used:
Gas
30 gallon (115 L) 3 to 4 people
40 gallon (150 L) 4 to 5 people
separated by a dielectric cou-
50 gallon (190 L) 5 and more people
pling to prevent corrosion.
Metal pipes with dissimilar
metal supports need to be sep-
Electric
arated to avoid corrosion. 40 to 42 gallon (115 to 160 L) 3 to 4 people
Test: Test the waste drainage system
by discharging several fixtures simul -
taneously. Look for “boiling” or back-
up in the lowest fixture in the building.
This indicates a clogged or malfunc-
tioning main building drain between
the building and the public sewer.
Most often such a problem is caused
by tree roots that have clogged the
line.
Test: Oil of peppermint or smoke can
be used to check the hydraulic
integrity of DWV systems by inserting
either substance in the system (the oil
through a roof vent, the smoke
through a trap) and then checking
throughout the structure for signs of a
pungent odor or smoke. This test
should be performed by a plumber.
&#65533; House trap. Some communities
require the installation of a
house trap on the building
drain. This trap is usually
50 to 52 gallon (190 to 200 L) 4 to 5 people
65 gallon (250 L) 5 and more people
Oil
30 gallon (115 L) any number of people
A qualified plumber or mechanical engineer should deter-
mine the size of replacement units based on rehabilitation
plans.
If a spa or whirlpool bath is in the house and the water is
heated by either gas or electricity, an additional capacity of
10 gallons (40 L) is needed.
located inside the building by side the foundation wall.
the foundation wall. It is Inspect the trap cleanout and
U-shaped and requires a sepa- check to see that the vent is
rate vent that terminates out- unobstructed from the outside.

Residential Inspection76
6.4
Tank Water Heaters
Tank water heaters consist of a
glass-lined or vitreous enamel-
coated steel tank covered by an
insulated sheet metal jacket. They
are gas-fired, oil-fired, or electri-
cally heated.
� Gas-fired tank water heaters
have an average life expectancy
of about 11 to 13 years and a
high recovery rate.
� Oil-fired heaters have an aver-
age life similar to that of gas-
fired heaters. Their recovery
rate is also high.
� Electric water heaters have a
longer service life—about 14
years. They have a low recov-
ery rate and thus require a
larger storage tank.
Dates of tank manufacture are
usually listed on the data plate
(often in a simple 1995 code in
the serial number; 0595, for
instance, would mean manufac-
tured in May 1995), and since
water heaters are usually installed
within several months of manu-
facture, the age of the tank often
can be approximated. Plan to
replace a tank near the end of its
life expectancy. Assess water
heater capacity in accordance
with Figure 6.3. Inspect tank
water heaters as follows:
� Plumbing components. Check
that the hot and cold water
lines are connected to the
proper fittings on the tank;
often they are reversed, caus-
ing a loss of fuel efficiency.
There should be a shutoff
valve on the cold water supply
This water heater tank had a threaded plug where its temperature-pressure relief valve should
line. Heavy mineral or rust have been, an unsafe condition that should be corrected immediately.

Residential Inspection 77
deposits around the tank fit-
tings are usually a sign that
the tank is nearing the end of
its service life.
Test: If the tank’s age or general con-
dition cannot be determined from
observation, consider having a
plumber drain some water from the
tank and inspect for sediment and
rust.
Check for signs of leakage on
the bottom of the tank, such as
rust or water stains on or near
fuel burning components or on
the floor. Leaking tanks cannot
usually be repaired and, there-
fore, must be replaced entirely.
Heavy rusting of the tank inte-
rior indicates that the tank
should be replaced, although
the presence of some sediment
and rust is normal. The tank
should be drained regularly to
remove this normal amount of
sediment and rust. Check for
the existence of a tempera-
ture/pressure relief valve on
top of the tank or on the hot
water line leading from the
tank (it should not be on the
cold water line), and for a dis-
charge pipe that extends from
the valve to a few inches from
the floor or to a floor drain or
the building exterior, depend-
ing on local code requirements.
Test: If necessary, the pressure relief
valve can be tested by pressing the
test lever, but since it may stick open,
do not perform this test without hav-
ing a replacement valve available and
the necessary tools for replacement.
The soot that has accumulated below the draft hood of this water heater indicates a severely clogged flue or chimney, or more commonly, back-
drafting caused by insufficient make-up air.

Residential Inspection78
� Fuel-burning components. On
gas- and oil-fired tank water
heaters, check the flue for
upward pitch (1/4 inch per
foot [1:50] minimum with no
flat spots), tightness of the fit-
tings, and overall condition
and integrity. A clogged flue or
chimney will deposit soot on
top of the tank under the draft
hood. On oil-fired water
heaters, check for a barometric
damper in the flue and verify
that it moves freely.
Test: Check that the burners have an
adequate supply of combustion air by
using a draft gauge or match to test
the draft.
Inspect the ignition compo-
nents and look for clogged
burners and signs of flashback,
such as soot on the heater near
the burner. The fuel burning
components can be repaired or
replaced, but consider the cost-
effectiveness of such repairs in
terms of the expected remain-
ing service life of the water
heater.
� Seismic vulnerability. If the
building is in seismic zones 3
or 4 (California and portions of
Alaska, Arkansas, Hawaii,
Idaho, Missouri, Montana,
Nevada, Oregon, Utah, Wyo-
ming, and Washington), check
the water heater for the pres-
ence of seismic bracing to the
floor or other structural
member.
6.5
Tankless Coil
Water Heaters
(Instantaneous
Water Heaters)
Tankless coil water heaters con-
sist of small diameter pipes
coiled inside of or in a separate
casing adjacent to a hot water or
steam boiler. They are designed
for a specific rate of water flow,
usually three to four gallons per
minute. Since demand for domes-
tic hot water can easily exceed
this flow, such heaters often have
an associated storage tank to
satisfy periods of high demand.
Thus the recovery rate of a tank-
less coil water heater is instanta-
neous for low demand and will
vary for high demand depending
on the size of the storage tank, if
any. The life expectancy of a tank-
less coil water heater is limited
only by the possible long-term
deterioration of its coils and by
the service life of the boiler to
which it is attached. Since the
boiler must operate through the
summer in order for the water
heater to function, such water
heaters are usually considered
inefficient.
Check tankless coil water heaters
as follows:
� Plumbing components. Inspect
the plumbing connections and
joints around the heater
mounting plate for rust, water
stains, and mineral deposits.
Tighten the mounting plate
and repair the connections if
required.
Test. Turn on the hot water in two or
more plumbing fixtures to check the
water flow. If it is low, suspect a
buildup of mineral deposits within the
coil. Such deposits can often be
flushed from the coil by a plumber.
� Controls. Inspect the function-
ing of the aquastat (device that
activates the boiler when heat
is needed for producing hot
water).
Test: Run hot water until the
boiler fires. Boiler water temperature
should not drop below 180 ºF (82 ºC)
on the water gauge; if it does, the
aquastat needs adjustment.
Check for the presence of a
pressure relief valve on the hot
water side of the coil or on the
auxiliary storage tank. The
valve should be connected to a
discharge pipe that extends to
a few inches from the floor, or
the building’s exterior, depend-
ing on local code requirements.
Test: The relief valve should be
tested by pressing the test lever, but
as it may stick in the open position,
the test should not be performed
without having a replacement valve
available and the necessary tools for
r e p l a c e m e n t .
6.6
Water Wells
and Equipment
Assess well capacity as described
in Figure 6.4. Check water wells
and equipment as follows:
� Location and water quality.
Wells that supply drinking
water should be located uphill
from the building supplied and
from any storm or sanitary
sewer system piping. Codes

Residential Inspection 79
usually require that the well be
a minimum of 50 feet (15 m)
from a septic tank and 100
feet (30 m) from any part of
the absorption field; however,
local codes may have different
separation distances based on
the percolation rates of the
local soils. Well water can be
more corrosive than city water
and may contain radon.
Test: Water should be analyzed for
the presence of bacterial contamina-
tion, for its mineral content, and for
the presence of radon. The local
health department normally will pro-
vide such an analysis. There should
be no measurable coliforms.
� Depth and casing. Most locali-
ties now require wells to be
more than 50 feet (15 m) in
depth and encased in a steel,
wrought iron, or plastic pipe.
The casing should extend sev-
eral inches above its surround-
ing concrete cover, which
should slope away from and
completely protect the casing.
The casing should be tightly
sealed where the pump and
power lines enter it and pro-
tected from flooding and other
threats to its sanitary integrity.
� Pumps. Two kinds of deep well
pumps are in common use, the
jet pump and the submersible
pump. A jet pump is mounted
above the well casing, and two
pipes should extend into it; if
there is only one pipe leading
into the casing, the well is less
than 25 feet deep and may not
meet code. Submersible pumps
are located at the bottom of
the well casing (submerged)
and a single discharge pipe
and an electrical supply cable
Figure 6.4
Assessing Well Capacity
A water well serving a single-family residence should be
capable of sustaining at least a 4-gallon-per-minute flow
(a 5- to 7-gpm [19 to 26 L/min] flow is preferable) with a
peak flow capacity of 12 gpm (45 L/min).
Test: To check the well’s capacity, run water simultaneously from sev-
eral faucets for 30 minutes or more. Note pressure fluctuations, if any.
Near the end of the test, look for mud or cloudiness in the water; this
indicates that the well has insufficient capacity for normal use.
Wells serving more than one residence should have propor-
tionately larger capacities. A more exacting capacity test can
be performed by a well specialist.
extend from the top of the
casing. The life expectancy of
deep well pumps is 10 years
or longer, depending on the
type. Submersible pumps are
usually the most long lasting
and trouble free. Check that
pump and plumbing compo-
nents at the well are protected
from freezing.
� Pressure tank and switch. A
tank under low air pressure (a
hydropneumatic tank) should
be located in either the well
house or the building’s base-
ment. This tank regulates
water pressure and flow; when
air pressure is lost (as air is
absorbed in the water over
time), the tank becomes water-
logged and causes the pump to
be activated every time water
is used. Look for this condi-
tion; it can be remedied by
pumping air back into the
tank. Newer tanks contain an
air bag. A pressure switch on
the tank keeps the water
pressure within a predeter-
mined 20 psi (140 kPa) range
(usually 20 to 40 psi [140 to
275 kPa], 30 to 50 psi [205 to
345 kPa], or 40 to 60 psi [275
to 415 kPa]).
Test: Check the pressure tank and
switch by running the water and see-
ing whether the pump activates at the
lower pressure limit and stops at the
upper pressure limit. If pressure slow-
ly goes down in the tank without
water being drawn from the system,
the tank or some other part of the
system is leaking, and the problem
should be found and corrected.
Pressure tanks and switches
have an average life expectancy
of 5 to 10 years, but may last
much longer. Check the tank
for the presence of a pressure
relief valve.

--
--
Residential Inspection80
6.7
Septic Systems
Assess septic system capacity as
described in Figure 6.5. Check
septic systems as follows:
� Location and layout. Septic
systems should be located
downhill from the building. No
storm water should be directed
into the septic system, as this
can flood it and force solids
into the absorption field, there-
by destroying the field. Suffi-
cient room should exist on the
Figure 6.5
Assessing Septic Capacity
Plumbing codes normally require the following septic tank
capacities (check the local code for exact requirements):
Single-family, Multi-family, Capacity
number of bedrooms one bedroom each
1 to 2 750 gallons
(2840 L)
3 1000 gallons
(3785 L)
property to relocate the ab-
sorption field, which has an
average life expectancy of 20
to 30 years under proper use.
Do everything possible to de-
termine the layout of the exist-
ing septic system, as the ab-
sorption field should not be
disturbed by new construction
and vehicular traffic, or cov-
ered by fill. The field often can
be located by the presence of
greener vegetation in dry sum-
mer weather or by melting
snow in winter.
� Septic tank. The septic tank
should be watertight and, for a
single-family house, have a
minimum capacity of 1000 gal-
lons (3800 L). If properly main-
tained, it should have been
pumped every several years.
Ask to see the tank’s pumping
records. Lack of periodic
pumping will cause solids to
be carried into the absorption
field, clogging the leaching
beds and shortening their use-
ful life.
� Absorption field. The absorp-
tion field should be adequately
sized to handle its service
4 2 units 1200 gallons
(4545 L)
5 to 6 3 units 1500 gallons
(5680 L)
4 units 2000 gallons
(7570 L)
The capacity of the septic system’s absorption field depends
on its layout and on the percolation qualities of the sur-
rounding soil.
Test: The absorption field’s capacity should be checked by running
water into several plumbing fixtures for 30 to 60 minutes and observ-
ing the trap in the lowest building fixture. If the water in the trap
“boils,” backs up, or makes a gurgling sound, the absorption field is
clogged or inadequately sized. In either case, it will probably have to
be replaced. See a local septic system specialist to determine
replacement needs. It is very difficult to test septic systems where the
house has been vacant for 30 days or more.
Other signs of a clogged absorption field are the presence of
dark green vegetation over the leaching beds throughout the
growing season (caused by nutrient-laden wastes being
pushed up through the soil), wet or soggy areas in the field,
or distinct sewage odors. These signs all indicate the proba-
ble need to replace the absorption field.
loads without clogging or over- vice records for the system. If
flowing. Try to locate the origi- the company that serviced the
nal design information and ser- installation can be identified,

Residential Inspection 81
Example of a typical septic system layout with a detail of the absorption field piping
Cross section of a typical two-compartment septic tank
additional work is needed. A
qualified plumber or mechani-
cal engineer should determine
the capacity of the system
based on the renovation plans.
� Grease trap. Some houses have
grease traps in the septic sys-
tem to prevent grease from
getting into and clogging the
absorption field. This trap
should be inspected for grease
buildup.
Test: To check whether runoff on the
site is coming from the absorption
field, put dye capsules in the waste
water and return later to check the
color of any runoff.
6.8
Gas Supply
in Seismic Regions
Inspect the following features of
the gas service:
� Service entrance. If the build-
ing is in seismic zones 3 or 4
(California and portions of
Alaska, Arkansas, Hawaii,
Idaho, Missouri, Montana,
Nevada, Oregon, Utah, Wyo-
ming, and Washington), check
the gas service for vulnerability
to differential movement
where the piping enters the
building. Look for adequate
clearance or for flexible
connections.
� Emergency shutoff. If the
building is in seismic zone 4
(portions of Alaska and Cali-
fornia, and small parts of Ida-
ho, Montana, and Wyoming),
look for an automatic emer-
check with that company about is being considered, verifying
the system’s existing capacity
renovation that adds bedrooms is critical to determining what
gency shutoff valve for the
the system’s condition. If a
entire house.

Residential Inspection82
7
HVAC System
Most HVAC (heating, ventilating,
air conditioning) systems in small
residential buildings are relatively
simple in design and operation.
They consist of four components:
controls, fuel supply, heating or
cooling unit, and distribution sys-
tem. Each component must be
evaluated for its physical and
functional condition and its ade-
quacy in terms of the building’s
planned reuse. The adequacy of
heating and cooling is often quite
subjective and depends upon
occupant perceptions that are
affected by the distribution of air,
the location of return air vents,
air velocity, the sound of the sys-
tem in operation, and similar
characteristics. For this reason,
past energy use should not be
used as the basis for estimating
future energy use.
This chapter describes inspection
procedures for oil- and gas-fired
warm air, hot water, and steam
heating systems; electric resistance
heaters; chilled air and evaporative
systems; humidifiers; unit air con-
ditioners; and attic fans.
When inspecting the HVAC sys-
tem, look for equipment service
records and read all equipment
data plates. Whenever possible,
ask building occupants about the
HVAC system’s history of perfor-
mance. Always try to observe
equipment in actual operation.
When universal design is a part of
a rehabilitation, consult HUD pub-
lication Residential Remodeling
and Universal Design for detailed
information about HVAC controls.
HVAC systems have used asbestos-
bearing insulation on piping, ducts,
and equipment, and may have
lead-based paint on piping and
equipment such as radiators. When
inspecting the HVAC system, pay
particular attention to the presence
of these hazardous materials.
Assess heating and cooling capac-
ity as described in Figure 7.1.
7.1
Thermostatic Controls
Residential HVAC controls consist
of one or more thermostats and a
master switch for the heating or
cooling unit. Inspect them as
follows:
� Thermostats. Thermostats are
temperature-sensitive switches
that automatically control the
heating or cooling system.
They normally operate at 24
volts. Thermostats should be
located in areas with average
temperature conditions and
away from heat sources such
as windows, water pipes, or
ducts. For a thermostat that
controls both heating and cool-
ing, a location near the return
air grille is ideal.
Test: Check each thermostat by
adjusting it to activate the HVAC
equipment. Then match the tempera-
ture setting at which activation occurs
with the room temperature as shown
on the thermostat’s thermometer.
Take off the thermostat cover
and check for dust on the
spring coil and dirty or corrod-
ed electrical contact points.
Newer thermostats have a mer-
cury switch in lieu of electrical
contacts. Plan to replace worn
or defective thermostats.
There may be more than
one thermostat in each living
unit. Sometimes two thermo-
stats separately control the
heating and cooling system,
and sometimes the living unit
is divided into zones, each
with its own thermostat.
Multi-family buildings with a
central HVAC system will be
divided into at least one zone
per living unit and buildings
with electric baseboard heat
may have a thermostat in every
room or on every heating unit.
Test: Check the functioning of multi-
zone systems by operating the HVAC
system in all its modes and noting
whether distribution is adequate in
each zone (see also Sections 7.3 and
7.4). Consider the zoning needs for
the planned rehabilitation of the build-
ing. Refer to the National Environ-
mental Balancing Bureau’s Proced-
ural Standards for Testing, Adjusting,
and Balancing of Environmental
Systems or the Associated Air Bal-
ance Council’s MN-4, ABBC Test and
Balance Procedures.
� Master switch. Every gas- and
oil-burning system should have
a master switch that serves as
an emergency shutoff for the
burner. Master switches are
usually located near the burner
unit or, if there is a basement,
near the top of the stairs.
Cooling system controls also
may include a master switch,
which in the “off” position will
not allow the compressor to
start, as well as a switch allow-
ing only the circulating fan to
operate.

Residential Inspection 83
Figure 7.1
Assessing Heating
and Cooling Capacity
The capacity of an existing heating or cooling
system, as measured by its ability to heat or
cool a specific building or space, can be
determined in either of two ways:
� Field test. Properly sized heating and cool-
ing systems should operate at full capacity
at normal yearly outside temperature
extremes and should be slightly under-
sized for unusual outside temperature
extremes. It is rare, however, that they can
be checked under such conditions.
Test: Operate the heating system on the coolest
possible day and the cooling system on the
warmest possible day (within the limitations of the
inspection period). Note how “hard” the system is
working to maintain the preset indoor temperature,
as indicated by how often the system cycles on and
off, and compare this to outside temperatures. This
procedure, while inexact, may provide some idea of
the system’s potential capacity.
When the system has a history of continu-
ous use, maintenance, and repair, it can be
assumed to have sufficient capacity.
However, check with present or former
building tenants on this matter.
Of more concern is the fuel efficiency
of the system. Ask the local utility
company or fuel distributor for records of
past fuel consumption and consider this
in the overall assessment of the HVAC
system.
� Design calculation. An HVAC system’s
capacity can be more accurately deter-
mined by noting its heating or cooling out-
put (in tons or BTUs) from information on
the manufacturer’s data plate and compar-
ing it to the building’s heating and cooling
loads. These loads can be calculated using
the Air Conditioning Contractors of
America’s Manual J or similar load calcula-
tion guide.
A rough estimate of a building’s
required heating equipment size in BTUs
per hour (BTUH) can be obtained by using
the following formula:
BTUH = .33 x [square footage of building to be
heated] x [difference between outside and inside
design temperatures]
The factor of .33 in this formula is based on
R11 exterior walls, an R19 ceiling at the top
floor or roof, and double-glazed windows.
A rough estimate of a building’s
required cooling equipment size, in tons,
can be made by dividing the floor area by
550 (each ton equals 12,000 BTUH).
Tonnage is not an adequate measure of
cooling capacity in a dwelling of three or
more floors with the air handling unit
located on the lowest floor, with such a
layout, the top floor can never be properly
cooled.
These estimates should be followed by
a complete load calculation after rehabili-
tation needs are firmly established.
Test: Operate all master and emer-
In hot water heating systems lating pump rather than the
gency shut-off switches when the
that also are used to generate burner (see Section 7.4).
burner is in operation to see whether
domestic hot water, the
they deactivate the unit.
thermostat controls the circu-

Residential Inspection84
7.2
Fuel-Burning Units,
General
Oil- or gas-fired furnaces and
boilers provide heat to the major-
ity of small residential buildings.
Such fuel-burning units, whether
they are part of a warm air or a
hot water system, should be
inspected as follows:
� Location, clearances, and fire
protection. Check that the unit
meets local fire safety regula-
tions. No fuel-burning unit
should be located directly off
sleeping areas or close to com-
bustible materials.
� Data plate and service
records. Locate the data plate
on each unit and note its date
of manufacture, rated heating
capacity in BTUs per hour, fuel
requirements, and other opera-
tional and safety information.
Examine the service records of
oil-fired units. These should be
attached to the unit or avail-
able from the oil distributor or
company that last serviced the
unit.
� Seismic vulnerability. If the
building is in seismic zones 3
or 4 (California and portions of
Alaska, Arkansas, Hawaii, Ida-
ho, Missouri, Montana, Nevada,
Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, and
Washington), check fuel-
burning equipment for the
presence of seismic bracing to
the structure.
� Fuel supply. Gas supply lines
should be made of black iron
or steel pipe (some jurisdic-
tions allow copper lines with
brazed connections). Shutoff
valves should be easily accessi-
ble and all piping well-support-
ed and protected.
Oil tanks should be main-
tained in accordance with local
code or the recommendations
of the National Fire Protection
Association. All tanks must be
vented to the outside and have
an outside fill pipe. Buried
Record all pertinent information from the manufacturer’s data plates on HVAC equipment. It will be useful in assessing the equipment’s
capacity later.

Residential Inspection 85
tanks normally have a 550, settled to the bottom. Feel
1000, or 1500 gallon (2080, along the undersides and
3785, or 5680 L) capacity; probe the interiors for such
basement tanks are usually leakage. Look for an oil level
restricted to a 275 gallon (1040 gauge and see whether it
L) capacity, with no more than works. Decide whether the
two tanks allowed. Tanks must tanks should be replaced. See
be located at a minimum of also the information on buried
seven feet from the furnace oil tanks in Section 1.2.
and should be adequately sup- Check the oil supply line to
ported and free of interior the furnace; it should be
rust. Outside tanks at grade equipped with a filter and pro-
should have an adequate sup- tected from accidental damage
porting base. and rupture.
Oil tanks often begin to leak
� Ventilation and access. Make
after about 20 years, when the
sure the fuel-burning unit has
bottom of the tank corrodes
adequate combustion air and is
from moisture that has con-
easily accessible for servicing
densed inside the tank and
with at least three feet clear on
Gas piping terminology
each side of the unit requiring
service. Check the local code
for requirements. Also check
equipment manufacturer’s
guidelines for makeup air,
especially where furnaces and
boilers are enclosed in a fin-
ished basement or closet. A
general rule is to provide one
inch of free area across the
width of the door to the fur-
nace or boiler room or closet
for every 1000 BTUH (300 W)
of heating. The free area
needed should be divided:
roughly half at the bottom of
the door and half at the top. A
grille can also be used in the
door.
� Condition. Open all access
panels and examine the exter-
nal and internal condition of
each unit. On hot air furnaces,
look for signs of rust from
basement dampness or flood-
ing, and, if an air conditioning
evaporator coil is located over
the furnace, look for rust
caused by condensate over-
flow. On hot water boilers, look
for rust caused by dampness
and by leaking water lines and
fittings. If possible, check the
condition of the interior refrac-
tory lining on all oil-fired units.
� Ignition and combustion.
Observe the ignition and com-
bustion process.
Test: Step away from the unit while
someone else turns up the thermo-
stat. Look for a puffback in oil-fired
units or flames licking under the cover
plate of a gas-fired unit; both indicate
potential hazards that must be cor-
rected. If the unit doesn’t light, check
the master switch or emergency

Residential Inspection86
Look for signs of corrosion around and within oil storage tanks and check the operation of the oil level gauge. Use a dipstick to check for signs of
condensation in the tank.
shutoff to make sure it’s on, press the
reset button, and try again. If it still
doesn’t light, call a service technician.
Once the unit has been activated,
closely observe the combustion
process. In oil-fired units, the flame
should be clear and clean, and have
minimal orange-yellow color. Flame
height should be uniform.
Gas-fired units should have a flame
that is primarily bluish in color. Note
whether the flame lifts off the burner
head; this indicates that too much air
is being introduced into the mixture.
Check gas burners for rust and
clogged ports. Soot build up is a sign
of inefficient combustion. In oil-fired
units, look for soot below the draft
regulator, on top of the unit’s housing,
and around the burner. The odor of
smoke near the unit is another sign of
poor combustion.
Test: Consider having a service tech-
nician perform a flue gas analysis to
determine the unit’s combustion effi-
ciency. This test requires the use of a
flue gas analyzer and should be per-
formed in accordance with ASTM
D2157, Standard Test Method for
Effect of Air Supply on Smoke Density
in Flue Gasses from Burning Distillate
Fuels.
� Venting and draft. Check the
smoke pipe between the unit
and the chimney. It should
have a slight upward pitch
with no sags, preferably a min-
imum of 1/4 inch per foot.
Inspect the pipe for corrosion
holes, the tightness of its fit-
tings, and the tightness of its
connection to the chimney.
Check for signs of soot build
up in the smoke pipe. Consult
local code requirements about
the minimum size, required
clearance from combustible
materials, and number of

Residential Inspection 87
This barometric draft regulator should swing freely and open somewhat as the
cracks that allow excess air to
enter the combustion chamber
or the smoke pipe. All such
openings should be sealed. The
damper of a barometric draft
regulator should be level, free
of rust, and not damaged or
altered. Improper draft from
an oil furnace could cause a
build up of carbon monoxide
gas in occupied spaces. Have
old flues cleaned by a chimney
sweep or HVAC service techni-
cian. Have a deteriorated flue
replaced.
Test: Check the draft regulator by
observing its motion when the heating
unit is in operation. It should open as
the heating unit warms up. The draft
regulator is adjusted during the com-
bustion efficiency test.
� Operation. The operation of
the fuel-burning unit will
depend on the type of heating
system in which it is used. See
Section 7.3 for the operation of
heating unit warms up.
smoke pipes entering the chim-
ney. Newer, higher efficiency
furnaces are not as prone to
backdrafting because of forced
or reduced draft systems.
When these systems are used
with existing old flues, flues
tend to fail early. Check for
evidence of rust or leaking in
the exhaust flue.
Gas-fired units have a draft
diverter that is located either
on the exhaust stack of a boil-
er or built into the sheet metal
casing of a furnace.
Test: Have a service technician run
the furnace or boiler through a com-
plete cycle, then with a match or can-
dle conduct a simple smoke test of
the draft at or near the diverter.A
draft gauge or CO tester can be used
to detect an outward flow of hot
exhaust gas; this indicates a haz-
ardous draft problem that must be
corrected.
Proper draft is critical to the
efficient operation of an oil-
fired unit. A barometric draft
regulator is required above the
unit or on the smoke pipe.
Inspect for open joints or
gas- and oil-fired warm air sys-
tems and Section 7.4 for the
operation of gas- and oil-fired
hot water and steam systems.
7.3
Forced Warm Air
Heating Systems
Warm air heating systems are of
two types, forced air or gravity.
Gravity systems are occasionally
still found in older single-family
houses, but most gravity systems
either have been replaced or con-
verted to forced air. Gravity sys-
tems are big, bulky, and easily
recognizable. Lacking a mechani-
cal means of moving air, such
systems are inefficient and heat
unevenly, can be dangerously hot,

Residential Inspection88
and are generally considered
archaic. Plan to replace them
unless there are overriding rea-
sons for doing otherwise.
Most forced warm air systems use
natural gas or fuel oil as a heat
source, but some systems use
electric resistance heaters or heat
pumps. These heaters replace the
heat exchanger and burner found
in gas- and oil-fired furnaces or
supplement the heat output of
heat pumps (see Section 7.9).
Electric resistance heating sys-
tems have no moving parts and
require no adjustment. The circu-
lation blower and air distribution
ductwork for electric resistance
heating systems (and heat pumps)
are identical to those of gas- and
oil-fired warm air systems and
should be checked as described
below. See Section 7.6 for addi-
tional information on electrical
resistance heating equipment.
Assess the condition of forced
warm air heating systems as
follows:
� Heat exchanger. The heat
exchanger is located above the
burner in gas- and oil-fired fur-
naces and separates the prod-
ucts of combustion from the
air to be heated. (There is no
heat exchanger in an electrical-
ly heated furnace.) It is critical
that the heat exchanger be
intact and contain no cracks or
other openings that could
allow combustion products
into the warm air distribution
system. Visual detection of
cracks, even by heating ex-
perts, is a difficult and unreli-
able process.
Test: Look for signs of soot at supply
registers and smell for oil or gas
fumes. Observe the burner flame as
the furnace fan turns on; a
disturbance or color change in the
flame may indicate air leakage
through the exchanger. Operate the
furnace for several minutes and then
feel the furnace frame for uneven hot
spots. Similarly, another simple test
requires turning on the fan only and
placing a lighted match or candle in
the heat exchanger enclosure. If there
are leaks, the flame will flicker.A CO
tester may also be used to detect
combustion gases. For any of these
tests, consult a heating contractor or
HVAC service technician.
Look for rust on the exchanger—
a major cause of premature
exchanger failure is water leak-
age from humidifiers or
blocked air conditioner con-
densate lines. Check for other
signs of water leakage.
The durability of the heat
exchanger determines the ser-
vice life of the furnace.
Furnaces installed since the
1950s normally have a useful
life of 25 years or less. Older
furnaces with cast iron heat
exchangers may last much
longer.
� Furnace controls. Gas- and oil-
fired furnaces have two inter-
nal controls, a fan control and
a high-temperature limit con-
trol. (Furnaces with electric
resistance heating coils have
high temperature limit controls
and air flow switches.) The fan
control prevents cold air from
being circulated through the
system. It is a temperature-sen-
sitive switch, completely inde-
pendent of the thermostat, and
turns the furnace blower on
and off at preset temperatures.
When the thermostat calls for
heat, the furnace burner is
turned on. After the heat
exchanger warms to a preset
temperature (usually 110 to
120 ºF [43 to 49 ºC]), the fan
control activates the blower.
The thermostat will shut off
the burner when the building
warms to the thermostat set-
ting, and when the heat
exchanger cools to about
85 ºF (29 ºC) the fan control
will switch off the blower.
Test: Observe the above sequence;
if it is faulty, the fan control should be
adjusted or replaced.
The high-temperature limit
control is a safety device that
shuts the burner off if the heat
exchanger gets too hot (the
control is usually set at about
175 ºF). Should the burner
automatically turn off before
the blower is activated, either
the blower, the fan control, or
the high-temperature limit con-
trol is faulty and should be
adjusted or replaced.
� Circulation blower. Remove
the blower cover and inspect
the blower motor and fan.
Look for proper maintenance
and oiling. Check for wear or
misalignment of the fan belt, if
any, and for dirt build up on
the motor or fan.
Test: When the system is operating,
listen for unwarranted blower noise
and determine its cause.
� Distribution system and con-
trols. The distribution system
is made up of supply and
return ducts, filters, dampers,
and registers. Supply and

Residential Inspection 89
return ducts may be made of
sheet metal, glass fiber, or
other materials. Glass fiber
ducts are self-insulated, but
sheet metal ducts are usually
not insulated except where
they pass through unheated (or
uncooled) spaces (see Sections
3.1 and 3.9). Sheet metal ducts
are occasionally insulated on
the inside; determine the pres-
ence of insulation by tapping
on the duct and listening for a
dull sound. Check ducts for
open joints and air leakage
wherever the ducts are ex-
posed. Examine them for dirt
build up by removing several
room registers and inspecting
the duct. Ducts can be cleaned
by a heating contractor. If
there is a flexible connection
between the furnace and the
duct work, check it for tears
and openings. There should be
no openings in return ducts in
the same room as a combus-
tion furnace.
Air filters are usually
located on the return side of
the furnace next to the blower,
but they may be found any-
where in the distribution sys-
tem. Check for their presence
and examine their condition.
Supply ducts are often pro-
vided with manual dampers to
balance air flow in the distribu-
tion system. Locate them by
looking for small damper han-
dles extending below the duct-
work. Check their operation. In
zoned systems, automatically
controlled dampers may be
located in the ductwork,
usually near the furnace.
Test: The operation of all dampers
should be checked by activating each
thermostat, one at a time. If the
dampers are working properly, air
should begin to circulate in each zone
immediately after its thermostat has
been activated.
Check the location of supply
and return registers in each
room. Warm air registers are
most effective when positioned
low on the exterior wall; cold
air registers when located high
on the walls or in the ceiling.
Return registers should be on
opposite sides of the room
from supply registers. If return
registers are located in a hall-
way or a different room, make
sure intervening doors are
undercut by about one inch.
Test: When the furnace blower is on,
check the air flow in all supply and
return registers. Remove and inspect
registers that appear blocked. Listen
for sounds emanating from the duct-
work and determine their source.
Humidifiers may be located in
the supply ducts. They should
not be located in return air
ducts because the moist air
will pass through the heat
exchanger and evaporator coil,
rendering the humidification
ineffective and corroding the
heat exchanger. Check humidi-
fiers in accordance with
Section 7.11.
7.4
Forced Hot Water
(Hydronic)
Heating Systems
Hot water heating systems, like
warm air systems, are of two
types, forced or “hydronic” and
gravity. Gravity systems are some-
times found in older single-family
houses, but in most cases such
systems have been replaced or
converted to a forced hot water
system. Gravity systems have no
water pump and use larger pip-
ing. They tend to heat unevenly,
are slow to respond, and can only
heat spaces above the level of
their boiler. Like gravity warm air
systems, they are considered inef-
ficient and normally should be
replaced during the rehabilitation
process.
Forced hot water systems are usu-
ally heated by gas- or oil-fired
boilers. Occasionally they may
use immersion-type electric resis-
tance heating coils. These coils
replace the burner found in gas-
and oil-fired boilers. The hot
water pump and distribution pip-
ing for electrically heated systems
are similar to those of gas- and
oil-fired hot water systems and
should be checked as described
below. Refer to Section 7.6 for
additional information on electri-
cal resistance heating equipment.
Assess the condition of forced
hot water heating systems as
follows:
� Boiler. Most hot water and
steam heating systems have
steel boilers with a service life
of about 20 years. Cast iron
boilers, which are less

Residential Inspection90
The hot water boiler on the left is gas-fired; the one on the right, oil-fired. Both have standard pressure and temperature gauges.
common, have a service life of � Expansion tank. The expan- boiler’s pressure relief valve
about 30 years. Old cast iron sion tank is usually located each time the system heats up.
boilers converted from coal- above the boiler (although it Check for such a condition.
fired units may last much may be in the attic) and is con- Waterlogged expansion tanks
longer but are usually quite nected to the hot water distrib- should be drained and repres-
inefficient. Inspect all boilers ution piping. Most tanks are surized. This should be done
for signs of corrosion and compression-type tanks that by a heating or plumbing
leakage. are designed to permit heated contractor.
Test: Run the boiler for one-half hour
water to expand against a
� Boiler controls. All boilers
or longer and check for leaks.
cushion of pressurized air
should be equipped with a
Occasionally a boiler fitting will leak
within the tank. When the tank
pressure gauge, a pressure
slightly before it warms up, expands,
loses air, it becomes “water-
relief valve, and a pressure-
and returns to a watertight fit. Don’t
logged” and expansion cannot
reducing valve. The pressure
confuse condensation droplets on a
be accommodated. Instead,
gauge indicates the water pres-
cold boiler with water leaks. water discharges from the
sure within the boiler, which

Residential Inspection 91
should normally be between 12
and 22 psi (83 to 153 kPa). A
temperature gauge may be
included in the pressure gauge.
The pressure-reducing valve
(actually a water make-up
valve) adds water to the system
from the domestic water sup-
ply when the boiler pressure
drops below 12 psi (83 kPa).
Pressure readings lower than
12 psi indicate a faulty valve
that should be adjusted or
replaced.
The pressure relief valve
should discharge water from
the system when the boiler
pressure reaches 30 psi (207
kPa). Look for signs of water
near the valve or below it on
the floor. High pressure condi-
tions are usually due to a
waterlogged expansion tank. If
the boiler also generates
domestic hot water, high pres-
sure may be caused by cracks
in the coils of the water heater,
since the domestic water sup-
ply pressure usually exceeds
30 psi (207 kpa). The pressure
relief valve should be mounted
on the boiler.
Test: As a last resort, the pressure
relief valve may be tested by a ser-
vice technician. But since it may be
old or clogged and become stuck in
the open position, the test should not
be performed without having a
replacement valve on hand and the
proper tools for removing and rein-
stalling the valve and extension pipe.
Hot water boilers should have
a high-temperature limit con-
trol or aquastat that shuts off
the burner if the boiler gets
too hot. Check for such a
control.
� Circulating pump and con-
trols. The circulating pump
forces hot water through the
system at a constant flow rate,
usually stated in gallons per
minute (gpm). It should be
located adjacent to the boiler
on the return pipe near the
boiler. The pump may be
This hot water expansion tank is located above the boiler. Look for signs of leakage in expansion tanks.

Residential Inspection92
Two-pipe systems
have a separate
r e t u r n
P r e s s u r e
relief valve
This pipe is missing in
a series loop system
Expansion tank
Pressure gage
C i r c u l a t i n g
p u m p
R A D I A T O R
R A D I A T O R
C O N V E C T O R
One-pipe forced hot water heating system
operated in one of the follow-
ing four ways:
� Constant-running circula -
tor, in which the pump is con-
trolled by a manual switch. The
pump is usually turned on at
the beginning of the heating
season and runs constantly
until it is turned off at the end
of the heating season. The boil-
er is independently activated
by the thermostat as heat is
required.
� Aquastat-controlled
circulator, which turns the
pump on and off at a preset
boiler temperature (normally
120 ºF [49 ºC]). Like the con-
stantly running circulator, the
burner is independently acti-
vated by the thermostat as
heat is required.
� Thermostat-controlled
circulator, in which water is
maintained at a constant tem-
perature in the boiler by an
aquastat.
� Relay-controlled circulator,
in which the pump is activated
(via a relay switch) whenever
the boiler is activated by the
thermostat.
Test: Determine which kind of device
controls the pump and check its oper-
ation. Inspect the condition and oper-
ation of the pump itself. Listen for
smooth operation; a loud pump may
have bad bearings or a faulty motor.
Inspect the seal between the motor
and the pump housing for signs of
leakage. Examine the condition of all
electrical wiring and connections.
Feel the return line after the system
has been operating for a short time; it
should be warm. If it isn’t, the pump
may be faulty.
In heating systems used for
generating domestic hot water,
the thermostat will control the
circulating pump and an aqua-
stat will control the burner. See
Section 6.5.
� Distribution piping. The
forced hot water distribution
system consists of distribution
piping, radiators, and control
valves. Distribution piping may

Residential Inspection 93
The hot water radiator on the left has a bleed valve at its top left corner. The steam radiator on the right has an air vent.
be one of three types: series- used to regulate the amount of properly insulated in unheated
loop, one-pipe, and two-pipe. hot water entering it. basements, attics, and crawl
In a series-loop system, Two-pipe systems use sepa - spaces. See Sections 3.1 and 3.9.
radiators are connected by one rate pipes for supply and When the distribution
pipe directly in a series. Since return water, which ensures a piping is divided in zones,
the last radiator will receive small temperature differential each zone will have either a
cooler water than the first, between radiators, regardless separate circulation pump or a
downstream radiators should of their location. Individual separate electrically operated
be progressively larger. Alter- room control is possible with valve.
natively, series-loop systems
may be divided in small zones
both one-pipe and two-pipe
systems, although a change in
Test: Check the operation of all zone
valves by activating each thermostat,
to overcome this problem.
One-pipe systems d i f f e r
the valve adjustment on one
radiator will affect the perfor-
one at a time. If hot water is being
distributed properly to each zone, the
from series-loop systems in mance of others downstream.
radiators in that zone should be warm
that their radiators are not con- Distribution piping should be
to the touch within several minutes.
nected in series. Instead, each checked for leaks at valves and Locate all valves, inspect their electri-
radiator is separately attached connections. Inspect such pip- cal wiring and connections, and look
to the water distribution pipe ing as outlined in Section 6.2
for signs of leakage.
with a diverter fitting, which is for domestic water supply pip-
ing. Make sure pipes are

Residential Inspection94
� Radiators and control valves.
Radiators are of three types:
cast iron (which in most cases
are free standing but some-
times are hung from the ceiling
or wall, convector (which may
have a circulating fan), and
baseboard. Older residential
buildings usually have cast
iron radiators that are ex-
tremely durable and normally
can be reused, although they
are less efficient than convec-
tors. Baseboard radiators are
considered the most desirable
for residential use because
they are the least conspicuous
and distribute heat most even-
ly throughout the room. R a d -
iators should be located on out-
side walls whenever possible.
Test: Activate the system and look for
signs of water leakage. Feel the sur-
faces of all radiators to ensure that
they are heating uniformly; if they are
not, bleed them to remove entrapped
air. Examine the fins of all convectors
for dirt and damage. These fins can
be “combed” straight. Check the con-
dition of all radiator control, safety,
and bleed valves and make sure they
are operational. Often the valves
need tightening or their packing
needs replacing.
� Radiant panel heating. H o t
water distribution piping may
be embedded in floors, walls,
and ceilings to provide radiant
heating. Because the piping is
embedded, it can only be
inspected by looking for signs
of water leakage or rust on the
floor or wall surfaces that
cover the piping. Such heating
is normally trouble free, un-
less there are major structural
problems that damage distrib-
ution piping and joints, or
One-pipe parallel flow steam heating system
unless piping includes copper
pipe and steel pipe that are
not separated by a dielectric
c o u p l i n g .
Test: Operate radiant heating systems
to determine their functional adequa-
cy. Radiant surfaces should be warm
to the touch within several minutes.
Check the condition of the shutoff
valves for each distribution zone and
the main balancing valves near the
boiler and look for signs of leakage.
Inspect the expansion tank and air
vent (if any) in accordance with the
subsection on expansion tanks
(above). If the system appears to be
in good condition but heating is not
adequate, consider having a service
technician pressure test the distribu -
tion piping for a period of up to 24
hours. If a drop in pressure occurs,
there is a leak. When a leak is
detected, have the service technician
flush the piping to check for galvanic
corrosion.
7.5
Steam Heating Systems
Steam heating systems are
seldom installed now in small res-
idential buildings but are still
common in many older ones.
They are simple in design and
operation, but require a higher
level of maintenance than modern
residential heating systems.
Unless the steam system is in
good working order and adequate
plans can be made for its up
keep, consider replacing it with a
more maintenance-free system.
Assess the condition and opera-
tion of steam heating systems as
follows:
� Boiler. Steam boilers are physi-
cally similar to hot water boil-
ers and should be inspected
similarly. See Section 7.4.

Residential Inspection 95
� Boiler controls. Unlike hot
water boilers, steam boilers
operate only about three-
fourths full of water and at
much lower pressures, usually
2 to 5 psi. Steam boilers
should be equipped with a
water level gauge, a pressure
gauge, a high-pressure limit
switch, a low water cut-off, and
a safety valve.
Test: Activate the boiler and observe
the water level gauge that indicates
the level of the water in the boiler.
The gauge should normally read
about half full, though the actual level
of the water is not critical as long as
the level is showing. If the gauge is
full of water, the boiler is flooded and
One-pipe counterflow steam heating system
water must be drained from the sys-
tem. If the gauge is empty, the boiler
water level is too low and must be
filled (either manually through the fill
valve or automatically through the
automatic water feed valve, if the boil-
er has one). Unsteady, up and down
motion of water in the gauge means
the boiler is clogged with sediment or
is otherwise operating incorrectly and
must be repaired. The clarity of the
boiler water should be noted when
checking the gauge; if the gauge is
too dirty to judge the water level,
remove and clean it. This test and
any resulting work should be done by
a service technician.
The high-pressure limit switch
turns off the burner when the
boiler pressure exceeds a preset
level, usually 5 to 7 psi (35 to
48 kPa). It is connected to the
boiler by a pigtail-shaped pipe.
The low water cut-off shuts
down the burner when the boil-
Two-pipe steam heating system er water level is too low.

Residential Inspection96
Test: Lower the water level in the boil-
er and see whether the low water cut-
off turns off the burner. Usually this
test should be performed by a service
technician.
The pressure relief valve is
designed to discharge when
the boiler pressure exceeds 15
psi (103 kPa).
� Distribution piping. The steam
distribution system consists of
distribution piping, radiators,
and control valves. Distribution
piping may have either a one-
pipe or two-pipe configuration.
In a one-pipe system, steam
from the boiler rises under
pressure through the pipes to
the radiators. There it dis-
places air by evacuation
through the radiator vent
valves, condenses on the radia-
tor’s inner surface, and gives
up heat. Steam condensate
flows by gravity back through
the same pipes to the boiler
for reheating. The pipes, there-
fore, must be pitched no less
than one inch in ten feet in the
direction of the boiler to en-
sure that the condensate does
not block the steam in any part
of the system. All piping and
radiators must be located
above the boiler in a one-pipe
system.
In a two-pipe system, steam
flows to the radiators in one
pipe and condensate returns in
another. A steam trap on the
condensate return line releases
air displaced by the incoming
steam. If the condensate return
piping is located below the
level of the boiler, it should be
brought back up to the level of
the boiler and vented to the
supply piping in a “Hartford
Loop.” This prevents a leak in
the condensate return from
emptying the boiler. Two-pipe
systems can be balanced by
regulating the supply valves on
each radiator, and may be con-
verted for use in a hot water
heating system (although new,
larger-size return piping usual-
ly must be installed).
Distribution piping should
be checked for leaks at all
valves and connections. Make
sure all piping is properly
pitched to drain toward the
boiler. “Pounding” may occur
when oncoming steam meets
water trapped in the system by
improperly pitched distribu-
tion piping or by shutoff valves
that are not fully closed or
fully open. Inspect the condi-
tion of all piping as outlined in
Section 6.2 for domestic water
supply piping. Make sure pipes
are properly insulated in
unheated basements, attics,
and crawl spaces. See Sections
3.1 and 3.9.
� Radiators and control valves.
Steam radiators are made of
cast iron and are usually free
standing. They are quite dur-
able and, in most cases, can be
reused. Radiators should be
located on outside walls when-
ever possible.
Test: Activate the system and inspect
the condition of all radiators. Look for
signs of water leakage. Feel their sur-
faces to make sure they are heating
uniformly; if they are not, check the
radiator air vents and supply valves
on a one-pipe system and the radia-
tor supply valves and the steam trap
on the condensate return on a two-
pipe system. Often air vents need
cleaning and supply valves need
tightening, or valve packing needs to
be replaced. “Pounding” near the
radiator can often be cured by lifting
one edge of the radiator slightly; this
reduces condensate blocking in the
pipes.
7.6
Electric Resistance Heating
Electric resistance heating ele-
ments commonly are used in
heat pump systems, wall heaters,
radiant wall or ceiling panels, and
baseboard heaters. They are less
frequently used as a heat source
for central warm air or hot water
systems. Such heating devices
usually require little mainte-
nance, but their operating costs
should be carefully considered
when planning the building reha-
b i l i t a t i o n .
Assess the condition of all elec-
tric resistance heating devices by
activating them and inspecting as
follows:
� Electric resistance heaters.
Electric resistance heaters are
used in warm air and hot water
systems as described in
Sections 7.3 and 7.4, and in
heat pumps as described in
Section 7.9. They incorporate
one or more heavy duty heat-
ing elements that are actuated
by sequence relays on demand
from the thermostat. The
relays start each heating ele-
ment at 30-second intervals,
which eliminates surges on the
electrical power system. In
warm air and heat pump sys-
tems, electric heating elements
are normally located in the fur-
nace or heat pump enclosure,

Residential Inspection 97
but they may be located any-
where in the ductwork as pri-
mary or secondary heating
devices.
Inspect the condition of all
electric resistance heaters,
including their wiring and con-
nections.
Test: If possible, observe the start up
of the heating elements. Their failure
to heat up indicates either a burnt-out
element or a malfunctioning relay.
� Electric wall heaters. These
compact devices are often used
as supplementary heating units
or as sole heat sources in
houses for which heating is
only occasionally required.
They may have one or more
electric heating elements,
depending on their size, and
should be inspected as de-
scribed above. Wall heaters
often have a small circulation
fan; check its condition and
operation and look for dirt
build up on the fan blades and
motor housing. Inspect all elec-
trical wiring and connections.
� Radiant wall and ceiling
panels. Electric heating panels
that are embedded in wall or
ceiling surfaces cannot be
directly inspected, but all radi-
ant surfaces should be exam-
ined for signs of surface or
structural damage.
Test: If the panels do not provide heat
when the thermostat is activated,
check the thermostat, circuit breaker,
and all accessible wiring to determine
the cause or have an electrical conti-
nuity test performed by an electrician.
� Baseboard heaters. Baseboard
heater heating fins can be dam-
aged and become clogged with
dust. Remove heater covers
and inspect for such problems.
Bent heating fins can often be
restraightened by “combing.”
The thermostat may be on an
adjacent wall or in the unit
itself.
7.7
Central Air Conditioning
Systems
Central air conditioning systems
are defined here as electrically
operated refrigerant-type systems
used for cooling and dehumidifi-
cation. (Evaporative coolers are
described in Section 7.10 and gas-
absorption systems are described
in Section 7.8.) Heat pumps are
similar to central air conditioners,
but are reversible and can also be
used as heating devices; they are
described in Section 7.9. Air con-
ditioning systems should be test-
ed only when the outside air tem-
perature is above 65 ºF (18 ºC);
below that temperature, the sys-
tems will not operate properly
and may shut down due to safety
controls.
There are two types of central air
conditioning systems: integral
and split. In the integral system,
all mechanized components—
compressor, condenser, evapora-
tor, and fans—are contained in a
single unit. The unit may be locat-
ed outside the building with its
cold air ductwork extending into
the interior, or it may be located
somewhere inside the building
with its exhaust air ducted to the
outside.
In the split system, the compres-
sor and condenser are located
outside the building and are
connected by refrigerant lines to
an evaporator inside the build-
ing’s air distribution ductwork.
Split systems in buildings heated
by forced warm air usually share
the warm air system’s circulating
fan and ductwork. In such cases,
the evaporator is placed either
directly above or below the fur-
nace, depending on the furnace
design.
Assess the condition of central air
conditioning systems as follows:
� Compressor and condenser.
The compressor pumps refrig-
erant gas under high pressure
through a condenser coil,
where it gives up heat and
becomes a liquid. The heat is
exhausted to the outside air by
the condenser fan. Compres-
sors have a service life of 5 to
15 years, depending on the
maintenance they receive, and
are the most critical compo-
nent in the air conditioning
system.
Test: Activate the system and observe
the operation of the compressor. It
should start smoothly and run contin-
uously; noisy start up and operation
indicates a worn compressor. The
condenser fan should start simultane-
ously with the compressor. After sev-
eral minutes of operation, the air flow-
ing over the condenser should be
warm. If it isn’t, either the compressor
is faulty or there is not enough refrig-
erant in the system.
If the compressor, condenser,
and condenser fan are part of
a split system and are located
in a separate unit outside,
check the air flow around the
outside unit to make sure it is
unobstructed. Look for dirt
and debris inside the unit,

Residential Inspection98
Looking down into an outdoor compressor unit with the top cover removed. The compressor is on the upper right, controls are on the lower right,
and the fan and condenser coils are to the left.
particularly on the condenser
coils and fins, and inspect all
electrical wiring and connec-
tions. The unit should be level
and well-supported, and its
housing intact and childproof.
An electrical disconnect switch
for use during maintenance
and repairs should be located
within sight of the unit.
Integral systems located
somewhere on or in the build-
ing should have their compres-
sors placed on vibration
mountings to minimize sound
transmission to inhabited
building spaces.
� Refrigerant lines. R e f r i g e r a n t
lines form the link between the
interior and exterior compo-
nents of a split system. The
larger of the two lines carries
low pressure (cold) refrigerant
gas from the evaporator to the
compressor. It is about the
diameter of a broom handle
and should be insulated along
its entire length. The smaller
line is uninsulated and carries
high pressure (warm) liquid
refrigerant to the evaporator.
Check both lines for signs of
damage and make sure the
insulation is intact on the larger
line. On its exterior, the insula-
tion should be protected from
ultraviolet damage by a cover-
ing or by white paint. Some-
times a sight glass is provided
on the smaller line; if so, the
flow of refrigerant should look
smooth through the glass.
Bubbles in the flow indicate a
deficiency of refrigerant in the
system. Frost on any exposed
parts of the larger line also indi-
cates a refrigerant deficiency.
� Seismic vulnerability. If the
building is in seismic zones 3
or 4 (California and portions of
Alaska, Arkansas, Hawaii, Ida-
ho, Missouri, Montana, Nevada,
Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, and
Washington), check roof-mount-
ed compressor and condenser
units for the presence of seis-
mic bracing to the structure.
� Evaporator. The evaporator is
enclosed in the air distribution
ductwork and can only be
observed by removing a panel
or part of the furnace plenum.
High pressure liquid refriger-
ant enters the evaporator and
expands into a gas, absorbing
heat from the surrounding air.

Residential Inspection 99
Leaking condensate tray
Air is pushed past the evapora-
tor coil by the system’s circula-
tion blower; in the process,
water vapor from the air con-
denses on the evaporator coil
and drips into a drain pan.
From there, it is directed to a
condensate drain line that may
sometimes include a conden-
sate pump. The drain line emp-
ties into a house drain or direct-
ly to the building’s exterior.
Examine the ductwork
around the evaporator for
signs of air leakage and check
below the evaporator for signs
of water leakage due to a
blocked condensate drain line.
Such leakage can present a
serious problem if the evapora-
tor is located above a warm air
furnace, where dripping
condensate water can rust the
heat exchanger (see Section
7.3), or above a ceiling, where
it can damage the building
components below. Follow the
condensate line and make sure
that it terminates in a proper
location. If there is a pump on
the line, check its operation.
In split systems where the
evaporator is located in an attic
or closet, the condensate drain
pan should have an auxiliary
condensate drain line located
above the regular drain line or
an auxiliary drain pan that is
separately drained. The connec-
tion of a condensate drain line
to a plumbing vent in the attic
may violate local codes. Check
for such violations.
Test: If the evaporator coil can be
exposed, inspect it for frost build up
after about 30 minutes of operation.
Frost is an indication of inadequate
air flow due to dirt on the coil or a
deficiency of refrigerant in the system.
Check to see if water is discharging
from the condensate drain line. If it is
not, either the evaporator coil is not
working properly or the drain line is
clogged.
Test: Central air conditioning systems
can be tested by an HVAC service
technician to determine their overall
condition and operational efficiency.
This test requires a variety of special-
ized equipment and involves: 1) test-
ing the pressure in the refrigerant
lines, 2) taking amperage readings on
the compressor, and 3) taking tem-
perature readings of the air passing
over the condenser and the evapora-
tor coils, and correlating these
readings with ambient outside tem-
perature conditions.

Residential Inspection100
� Geothermal heating and cool-
ing system. Geothermal sys-
tems are relatively new and
operate similarly to air-to-air
heat pump systems, but differ
in design and installation.
What might be considered the
condenser are pipes buried in
the ground in dry wells or
other in-ground systems suit-
able for transferring or displac-
ing heat. The system is closed
and its piping is PVC so corro-
sion is not a potential problem.
Geothermal systems are nor-
mally installed without a back
up or emergency heating sys-
tem and all their components
except the buried coils are usu-
ally inside the house. For more
information, consult the Geo-
thermal Heat Pumps: Introduc-
tory Guide published by the
International Ground Source
Heat Pump Association. A geot-
hermal heating and cooling
system can be operated in a
heating or cooling mode under
any outside temperature.
Although expensive to install,
they normally are efficient and
economical to operate.
Test: Observe the operation of the
system in both heating and cooling
modes if possible. Visually inspect the
well field header piping and pumps.
Pressure test the well field. Tests
should be conducted by a service
technician.
� Distribution ductwork and
controls. Cool air distribution
ductwork and controls, includ-
ing zone controls, should be
inspected similarly to those for
forced warm air heating sys-
tems, as described in Section 7.3.
7.8
Central Gas-Absorption
Cooling Systems
Gas-absorption cooling systems
occasionally may be found in
older residential buildings. Such
systems use the evaporation of a
liquid, such as ammonia, as the
cooling agent and, like a gas
refrigerator, are powered by a
natural gas or propane flame.
Test: A gas-absorption system oper-
ates under several hundred pounds of
pressure and should be tested by a
specialist. The local gas or fuel sup-
plier probably maintains the unit; ask
for an evaluation of the system.
Meanwhile, operate the system. It
should start smoothly and run quietly.
Examine the condition of the sys-
tem’s exterior and interior com-
ponents. Inspect ductwork in
accordance with Section 7.3.
7.9
Heat Pumps
Electric heat pumps are electrical-
ly operated, refrigerant-type air
conditioning systems that can be
reversed to extract heat from out-
side air and transfer it indoors.
Heat pumps are normally sized
for their air conditioning load,
which in most parts of the coun-
try is smaller than the heating
load. Auxiliary electric heaters are
used to provide the extra heating
capacity the system requires in
the heating season.
Like air conditioning systems,
heat pumps can be either split or
integral. Integral systems located
outside the building should have
well-insulated air ducts between
the unit and the building. If locat-
ed on or within the building, they
should be mounted on vibration
isolators, be thermally protected,
and have an adequate condensate
drainage system.
Inspect heat pumps by the proce-
dure described in Section 7.7 for
central air conditioning systems.
Testing in one mode is usually
sufficient. However, do not oper-
ate air-to-air heat pumps in tem-
peratures below 65 ºF (18 ºC) on
the cooling cycle and above
55 ºF (13 ºC) on the heating cycle.
In both conditions the amount of
work the heat pump has to do to
achieve interior comfort tempera-
tures is not enough to really test
the heat pump’s ability to per-
form. Check also for the following
problems:
� Auxiliary heater failure.
Electric resistance auxiliary
heaters are designed to acti-
vate (usually in stages) below
about 30 ºF (-1 ºC) outdoor
temperature when the heat
pump cannot produce enough
heat to satisfy the thermostat.
Examine the condition of all
auxiliary heaters in accordance
with Section 7.6.
Test: If possible, activate the auxiliary
heaters to observe their operation.
Operating failures may be caused by
a faulty heater element, faulty relays,
a faulty thermostat, or a faulty revers-
ing valve.
� Improper defrosting. During
cold, damp weather, frost or
ice may form on the metal fins
of the coil in an outdoor unit.
Heat pumps are designed to
defrost this build up by revers-
ing modes either at preset

Residential Inspection 101
intervals or upon activation by
a pressure sensing device.
Test: The pressure sensor may mal-
function, and on units so equipped, it
can be tested in the heating mode by
temporarily placing an obstruction on
the exhaust side of the coil and
observing whether the coil begins to
heat (defrost) within a short period of
time.
� Faulty reversing valve. In
most heat pumps, a reversing
valve changes modes from
heating to cooling (some heat
pumps use a series of dampers
instead) when the thermostat
is changed.
Test: Check the reversing valve when
the outside temperature varies
enough to be able to run the heat
pump in the opposite modes. Change
the thermostat. If the system doesn’t
reverse, the reversing valve is faulty.
7.10
Evaporative
Cooling Systems
Evaporative cooling systems are
simple and economical devices.
They pass air through wetted
pads or screens and cooling takes
place by evaporation. Such sys-
tems can only be used in dry cli-
mates where evaporation readily
A roof-mounted evaporative cooler. This type of cooling unit is relatively simple to inspect, repair, and maintain.

Residential Inspection102
Installation of this air conditioner destroyed the structural integrity of the bearing wall between the two windows.
takes place and where dehumidi-
fication is not required.
Evaporative coolers consist of
evaporator pads or screens, a
means to wet them, an air blower,
and a water reservoir with a drain
and float-operated water supply
valve. These components are con-
tained in a single housing, usually
located on the roof, and connect-
ed to an interior air distribution
system. In wetted-pad coolers,
evaporator pads are wetted by a
circulating pump that continually
trickles water over them; in
slinger coolers, evaporator pads
are wetted by a spray; and in
rotary coolers, evaporator
screens are wetted by passing
through a reservoir on a rotating
drum.
The water in evaporative coolers
often contains algae and bacteria
that emit a characteristic
“swampy” odor. These can be
removed easily with bleach. Some
systems counteract this pattern
by treating the water or by con-
tinually adding a small amount of
fresh water.
Inspect evaporative cooling sys-
tems by examining the condition
of each component. Note whether
evaporative pads need cleaning or
replacement. Look for signs of
leakage and check the cleanliness
and operation of the water
reservoir, float-operated supply
valve, and drain.
Test: Activate the system and listen
for unusual sounds or vibrations.
Inspect all distribution ductwork as
described in Section 7.3 and evaluate
the system’s overall ability to cool the
building.
If the building is in seismic zones
3 or 4 (California and portions of
Alaska, Arkansas, Hawaii, Idaho,
Missouri, Montana, Nevada,
Oregon, Utah, Wyoming, and
Washington), check the evapora-
tive cooler for the presence of
seismic bracing to the structure.

Residential Inspection 103
7.11
Humidifiers
Humidifiers are sometimes added
to warm air heating systems to
reduce interior dryness during
the heating season. They are
installed with the air distribution
system and are controlled by a
humidistat that is usually located
in the return air duct near the
humidifier housing. The humidi-
fier should not be located in a
return air duct (see Section 7.3).
Humidifiers can be of several
types:
� Stationary pad, in which air is
drawn from the furnace
plenum or supply air duct by a
fan, blown over an evaporator
pad, and returned to the air
distribution system.
� Revolving drum, in which
water from a small reservoir is
picked up by a revolving pad
and exposed to an air stream
from the furnace plenum or
supply ductwork.
� Atomizer, in which water is
broken into small particles by
an atomizing device and
released into the supply air
ductwork.
� Steam, in which water is heat-
ed to temperatures above boil-
ing and then injected into the
supply air duct.
Inspect the humidifier’s condi-
tion. Take off the unit’s cover and
check for mineral build up on the
drum or pad. Examine the humid-
ifier’s water supply and look for
signs of leakage, especially at its
connection with the house water
supply. Check all electrical wiring
and connections.
Test: Activate the humidifier by turning
up the humidistat. It should only oper-
ate when the furnace fan is on, the
system is in the heating mode, and
the indoor humidity is lower than the
humidistat setting.
7.12
Unit (Window)
Air Conditioners
Unit air conditioners are portable,
integral air conditioning systems
without ductwork. Inspect their
overall condition and check the
seal around each unit and its
attachment to the window or wall.
Ensure that it is adequately sup-
ported and look for obstructions
to air flow on the exterior and for
proper condensate drainage.
Make sure all electrical service is
properly sized and that each unit
is properly grounded. Bent fins
on the condenser coils may be
“combed.”
Test: Operate each window unit for a
long enough period to determine its
cooling capacity; after several min-
utes, the air from the unit should feel
quite cool. It should start smoothly
and run quietly. Check for water drip-
ping from the condensate discharge
on the exterior side of the unit.
7.13
Whole House
and Attic Fans
Check the location and condition
of the whole house or attic fan, if
one is present (see Section 3.9).
Inspect fan motors for signs of
overheating and examine fan
belts for signs of wear. Check all
operating controls and associated
electrical wiring and check to see
that the attic fan thermostat is
set at about 95 ºF (35 ºC).
Test: Activate whole house and attic
fans and observe their operation.
They should start and run smoothly
and be securely fastened to their
frames. Note whether the louvers
below a whole house fan are open
completely when the fan is running
and whether exterior louvers on attic
fans are weather protected and
screened.

Residential Inspection104

Appendix A—The Effects of Fire on Structural Systems A-1
Appendix A—
The Effects of
Fire on Structural
Systems
Introduction
Building fires, which normally
reach temperatures of about
1000 ºC, can affect the load-
bearing capacity of structural
elements in a number of ways.
Apart from such obvious effects
as charring and spalling, there
can be a permanent loss of
strength in the remaining materi-
al and thermal expansion may
cause damage in parts of the
building not directly affected by
the fire.
In assessing fire’s effects, the
main emphasis should be placed
on estimating the residual
load-carrying capacity of the
structure and then determining
the remedial measures, if any,
needed to restore the building to
its original design for fire resis-
tance and other requirements.
Obviously, if weaknesses in the
original design are exposed, these
should be corrected.
All building materials except tim-
ber are likely to show significant
loss of strength when heated
above 250 ºC, strength that may
not recover after cooling. Thus, it
is useful to estimate the maxi-
mum temperature attained in a
fire. Molded glass objects soften
or flow at 700 or 800 ºC. Metals
form drops or lose their sharp
edges as follows: 300 to 350 ºC
for lead, 400 ºC for zinc, 650 ºC
for aluminum and alloys, 950 ºC
for silver, 900 to 1000 ºC for
brass, 1000 ºC for bronze,
Table A–1
1100 ºC for copper, and 1100 to
1200 ºC for cast iron. There are
also the well-known color changes
in concrete or mortar. The devel-
opment of red or pink coloration
in concrete or mortar containing
natural sands or aggregates of
appreciable iron oxide content
occurs at 250 to 300 ºC and, nor-
mally, 300 ºC may be taken as the
transition temperature. Table A-1
provides specifics.
Making an analysis of the damage
and assessment of the necessary
repairs may be possible within a
reasonable degree of accuracy,
but final acceptance may depend
on proof by a load test, where
performance is generally judged
in terms of the recovery of deflec-
tion after load removal.
Fire-Induced Color Change in Concrete
The temperature within a slab may continue to rise after the fire has ended and some of the maxima were attained after
the end of the heating period.
Heating Maximum Maximum depth of concrete showing characteristic change
period, surface
hours temperature
Pink or red Fading of red, friability Buff Sintering
ºF ºC 300 ºC 600 ºC 600 ºC 1200 ºC
1 1742 950 56 mm 19 mm 0 0
2 1922 1050 100 mm 38 mm 6 mm 0
4 2246 1230 140 mm 63 mm 25 mm 3 mm
6 2282 1250 170 mm 90 mm 38 mm 6 mm

Residential InspectionA-2
1
Timber
Timber browns at about 120 to
150 ºC, blackens around 200 to
250 ºC, and emits combustible
vapors at about 300 ºC. Above a
temperature of 400 to 450 ºC (or
300 ºC if a flame is present), the
surface of the timber will ignite
and char at a steady rate. Table
A-2 shows the rate of charring.
Analysis and Repair
Generally, any wood that is not
charred should be considered to
have full strength. It may be pos-
sible to show by calculation that
a timber section or structural ele-
ment subjected to fire still has
adequate strength once the char
is removed. Where additional
strength is required, it may be
possible to add strengthening
pieces. Joints that may have
opened and metal connections
that may have conducted heat to
the interior are points of weak-
ness that should be carefully
e x a m i n e d .
2
Masonry
The physical properties and
mechanisms of failure in masonry
walls exposed to fire have never
been analyzed in detail. Behavior
is influenced by edge conditions
and there is a loss of compressive
strength as well as unequal ther-
mal expansion of the two faces.
For solid bricks, resistance to the
effects of fire is directly propor-
tional to thickness. Perforated
bricks and hollow clay units are
more sensitive to thermal shock.
There can be cracking of the con-
necting webs and a tendency for
the wythes to separate. In cavity
walls, the inner wythe carries the
major part of the load. Exterior
walls can be subjected to more
severe forces than internal walls
by heated and expanding floor
slabs. All types of brick give
much better performance if plas-
ter is applied, which improves
insulation and reduces thermal
shock.
Table A–2
Char Rate of Timber
Analysis and Repair
As with concrete, it is possible to
determine the degree of heating
of the wall from the color change
of the mortar and bricks. For
solid brick walls without undue
distortion, the portion beyond
the pink or red boundary may be
considered serviceable and calcu-
lations should be made accord-
ingly. Per-forated and hollow
brick walls should be inspected
for the effects of cracks indicat-
ing thermal shock. Plastered
bricks sometimes suffer little
damage and may need repairs
only to the plaster surfaces.
3
Steel
The yield strength of steel is
reduced to about half at 550 ºC.
At 1000 ºC, the yield strength is
10 percent or less. Because of its
high thermal conductivity, the
temperature of unprotected inter-
nal steelwork normally will vary
little from that of the fire. Struc-
tural steelwork is, therefore, usu-
ally insulated.
A column exposed to fire on all faces should be assumed to char equally on all faces 1.25 times faster than the rates
shown. Linear interpolation or extrapolation for periods between 15 and 90 minutes is permissible.
Species Charring after 30 minutes Charring after 60 minutes
All structural species except those below 20 mm 40 mm
Western red cedar 25 mm 50 mm
Oak, utile, kerving (gurgun), teak, greenheart, jarrah 15 mm 30 mm

Appendix A—The Effects of Fire on Structural Systems A-3
Apart from losing practically all
of its load-bearing capacity,
unprotected steelwork can
undergo considerable expansion
when sufficiently heated. The
coefficient of expansion is 10
-5
per degree Celsius. Young’s
modulus does not decrease with
temperature as rapidly as does
yield strength.
Cold-worked reinforced bars,
when heated, lose their strength
more rapidly than do hot-rolled
high-yield bars and mild-steel
bars. The differences in proper-
ties are even more important
after heating. The original yield
stress is almost completely
recovered on cooling from a
temperature of 500 to 600 ºC
for all bars but on cooling from
800 ºC, it is reduced by 30 per-
cent for cold-worked bars and
by 5 percent for hot-rolled bars.
The loss of strength for pre-
stressing steels occurs at lower
temperatures than that for rein-
forcing bars. Cold-drawn and
heat-treated steels lose a part of
their strength permanently
when heated to temperatures in
excess of about 300 ºC and
400 ºC, respectively.
The creep rate of steel is sensi-
tive to higher temperatures and
becomes significant for mild
steel above 450 ºC and for pre-
stressing steel above 300 ºC. In
fire resistance tests, the rate of
temperature rise when the steel
is reaching its critical tempera-
ture is fast enough to mask any
effects of creep. When there is a
long cooling period, however, as
in prestressed concrete, subse-
quent creep may have some
effect in an element that has not
reached the critical condition.
Analysis and Repair
In general, a structural steel
member remaining in place with
negligible or minor distortions
to the web, flanges, or end con-
nections should be considered
satisfactory for further service.
Exceptions are the relatively
small number of structures built
with cold-worked or tempered
steel, where there may be per-
manent loss of strength. This
may be assessed using estimates
of the maximum temperatures
attained or by on-site testing.
Where necessary, the steel
should be replaced, although
reinforcement with plates may
be possible. Microscopy can be
used to determine changes in
microstructure. Since this is a
specialized field, the services of
a metallurgist are essential.
4
Concrete
Concrete’s compressive strength
varies not only with temperature
but also with a number of other
factors, including the rate of
heating, the duration of heating,
whether the specimen was
loaded or not, the type and size
of aggregate, the percentage of
cement paste, and the water/
cement ratio. In general, con-
crete heated by a building fire
always loses some compressive
strength and continues to lose it
on cooling. However, where the
temperature has not exceeded
300 ºC, most strength eventually
is recovered.
Because of the comparatively
low thermal diffusivity of con-
crete (of the order of 1 mm/s),
the 300 ºC contour may be at
only a small depth below the
heated face. Concrete’s modulus
of elasticity also decreases with
temperature, although it is
believed that it will recover sub-
stantially with time, provided
that the coefficient of thermal
expansion of the concrete is on
the order of 10
-5
per degree
Celsius (but this varies with
aggregate). Creep becomes sig-
nificant at quite low tempera-
tures, being of the orders of 10
-4
to 10
-3
per hour over the temper-
ature range of 250 to 700 ºC,
and can have a beneficial effect
in relaxing stresses.
Analysis and Repair
� Effective cross section.
Removal of the surface mater-
ial down to the red boundary
(see Table A-1) will reveal the
remaining cross section that
can be deemed effective.
Compression tests of cores
can indicate the strength of
the concrete, yielding a value
for use in calculations.
� Cracks. Most fine cracks are
confined to the surface. Major
cracks that could influence
structural behavior are general-
ly obvious. A wide crack or
cracks near supports may mean
there has been a loss of anchor-
age of the reinforcement.
� Reinforcing steel. Provided
that mild steel or hot-rolled
high-yield steel is undistorted
and has not reached a tem-
perature above about 800 ºC,
the steel may be assumed to

Residential InspectionA-4
have resumed its original prop-
erties except that cold-worked
bars will have suffered some
permanent loss.
� Prestressing steel. It is likely
that prestressing steel will
have lost some strength, par-
ticularly if it has reached tem-
peratures over 400 ºC. There
will also be a loss of tensile
stress. These effects can be
assessed for the estimated
maximum temperature
attained.
In some situations, the replace-
ment of a damaged concrete
structural member may be the
most practical and economic solu-
tion. Elsewhere, the repair of the
member, even if extensive, will be
justified to avoid inconvenience
and damage to other structural
members.
Where new members are connect-
ed to existing ones, monolithic
action must be ensured. This calls
for careful preparation of the
concrete surfaces and the conti-
nuity of reinforcing steel. For
repair, the removal of all loose
friable concrete is essential to
ensure adequate bonding. Extra
reinforcement should be fastened
only by experienced welders.
New concrete may be placed either
by casting in forms or by the
gunite method. With the latter, it
may be possible to avoid increas-
ing the original dimensions of the
member. The choice of method
will depend on the thickness of
the new concrete, the surface fin-
ish required, the possibility of
placing and compacting the con-
crete in the forms, and the degree
of importance attached to an
increase in the size of the section.
Large cracks can be sealed by
injecting latex solutions, resins,
or epoxies. Various washes or
paints are available to restore the
appearance of finely cracked or
crazed surfaces.

Appendix B—Wood-Inhabiting Organisms B-1
Appendix B—
Wood-Inhabiting
Organisms
This material is excerpted from A Guide
to the Inspection of Existing Homes for
Wood Inhabiting Insects, by Michael P.
Levy and published by the U.S. Depart-
ment of Housing and Urban Develop-
ment (HUD).
Wood is a porous material and
will absorb moisture from the air.
Moisture is attracted to the walls
of the tubes that make up the
wood. As walls absorb moisture,
the wood swells. If the humidity
is kept at 100 percent, the walls
become saturated with water. The
moisture content at which this
occurs is the fiber saturation
point, which is approximately 30
percent by weight for most
species used in construction.
Fungi will only decay wood with a
moisture content above the fiber
saturation point. To allow a safety
margin, wood with a moisture
content above 20 percent is con-
sidered to be susceptible to de-
cay. Wood in properly construct-
ed buildings seldom will have a
moisture content above 16 to l8
percent. Thus, wood will only
decay if it is in contact with the
ground or wetted by an external
source of moisture, such as rain
seepage, plumbing leaks, or con-
densation. Dry wood will never
decay. Also, the drier the wood,
the less likely it is to be attacked
by most types of wood-inhabiting
insects.
Wood-inhabiting fungi are small
plants that lack chlorophyll and
use wood as their food source.
Some fungi use only the starch
and proteins in the wood and
don’t weaken it. Others use the
structural components, and as
they grow, they weaken the wood,
which eventually becomes struc-
turally useless. All fungi require
moisture, oxygen, warmth, and
food. The keys to preventing or
controlling growth of fungi in
wood in buildings are to either
keep the wood dry (below a mois-
ture content of 20 percent) or to
use preservative-treated or natu-
rally resistant heartwood or
selected species.
Wood-inhabiting insects can be
divided into those that use wood
as a food material—termites and
wood-boring beetles, for exam-
ple—and those that use it for
shelter—carpenter ants and bees,
for example. Damage is caused by
immature termites called nymphs,
by the larvae or grubs of the
wood-boring beetles, and by the
adults in ants and bees.
Some wood-inhabiting organisms
are found in all parts of the coun-
try, others are highly localized.
Some, although common, cause
very little structural damage. The
following is a description of the
major wood-inhabiting fungi and
insects in the United States.
� Surface molds and sapstain
fungi. Surface molds or mildew
fungi discolor the surface of
wood, but do not weaken it.
They are generally green, black,
or orange and powdery in
appearance. The various build-
ing codes allow the use of
framing lumber with surface
molds or mildew, providing
that the wood is dry and not
decayed. Spores (or seeds) of
surface molds or mildew fungi
grow quickly on moist wood or
on wood in very humid condi-
tions. They can grow on wood
before it is seasoned, when it
is in the supplier’s yard or on
the building site, or in a fin-
ished house. When the wood
dries, the fungi die or become
dormant, but they do not
change their appearance. Thus,
wherever surface molds or
mildew fungi are observed on
wood in a building, it is a
warning sign that at some time
the wood was moist or humidi-
ty was high.
Surface molds and mildew
fungi are controlled by elimi-
nating the source of high
humidity or excess moisture,
for example by repairing leaks,
improving ventilation in attics
or crawl spaces, or installing
soil covers. Before taking cor-
rective action, the source of
the moisture that allowed fun-
gus growth must be deter-
mined. If the wood is dry and
the sources of moisture are no
longer present, no corrective
action need be taken.
Sapstain or bluestain fungi
are similar to surface molds,
except that the discoloration
goes deep into the wood. They
color the wood blue, black, or
gray and do not weaken it.
They grow quickly on moist
wood and do not change their
appearance when they die or
become dormant. They usually
occur in the living tree or
before the wood is seasoned,
but sometimes they grow in
the supplier’s yard, on the
building site, or in a finished
house. In the latter case, they

Residential InspectionB-2
are normally associated with
rain seepage or leaks. Stain
fungi are a warning sign that at
some time the wood was
moist. Control is the same as
for surface molds or mildew
fungi.
� Water-conducting fungi. Most
decay fungi are able to grow
only on moist wood and can-
not attack adjacent dry wood.
Two brown-rot fungi, Poria
incrassata and Merulius lacry -
mans, are able to conduct
water for several feet through
root-like strands or rhizo-
morphs, to moisten wood and
then to decay it. These are
sometimes called water-con-
ducting or dry-rot fungi. They
can decay wood in houses very
rapidly, but fortunately they
are quite rare. Poria incrassata
is found most frequently in the
Southeast and West. Merulius
lacrymans occurs in the North-
east. Both fungi can cause
extensive damage in floors and
walls away from obvious
sources of moisture. Decayed
wood has the characteristics of
brown rotted wood except that
the surface of the wood some-
times appears wavy but appar-
ently sound, although the inte-
rior may be heavily decayed.
The rhizomorphs that charac-
terize these fungi can be up to
an inch in diameter and white
to black in color, depending on
their age. They can penetrate
foundation walls and often are
hidden between wood mem-
bers. The source of moisture
supporting the fungal growth
must be found and eliminated
to control decay. Common
sources include water leaks
and wood in contact with or
close to the soil: for example,
next to earth-filled porches or
planters. Where the fungus
grows from a porch, the soil
should be removed from the
porch next to the foundation
wall to prevent continued
growth of the fungus into the
house. Poria incrassata normal-
ly occurs in new or remodeled
houses and can cause exten-
sive damage within two to
three years.
� Brown-rot and white-rot fungi.
The fungi often produce a
whitish, cottony growth on the
surface of wood. They grow
only on moist wood. The fungi
can be present in the wood
when it is brought into the
house or can grow from the
spores that are always present
in the air and soil. Wood
attacked by these fungi should
not be used in construction.
Wood decayed by brown-rot
fungi is brittle and darkened in
color. As decay proceeds, the
wood shrinks, twists, and
cracks perpendicular to the
grain. Finally, it becomes dry
and powdery. Brown-rot is the
commonest type of decay
found in wood in houses.
Wood decayed by white-rot
fungi is fibrous and spongy
and is bleached in color.
Sometimes it has thin, dark
lines around decayed areas.
The wood does not shrink until
decay is advanced.
These fungi can be con-
trolled by eliminating the
source of moisture that allows
them to grow, for example by
improving drainage and venti-
lation under a house, repairing
water leaks, or preventing
water seepage. When the wood
dries, the fungi die or become
dormant. Spraying wood with
chemicals does not control
decay. If the moisture source
cannot be eliminated, all the
decayed wood should be
replaced with pressure-treated
wood.
� White-pocket rot. White-
pocket rot is caused by a fun-
gus that attacks the heartwood
of living trees. Decayed wood
contains numerous small, spin-
dle-shaped white pockets filled
with fungus. These pockets are
generally 3 to 13 mm long.
When wood from infected trees
is seasoned, the fungus dies.
Therefore, no control is neces-
sary. White-pocket rot general-
ly is found in softwood lumber
from the West Coast.
� Subterranean termites.
Subterranean termites normal-
ly damage the interior of wood
structures. Shelter tubes are
the most common sign of their
presence. Other signs include
structural weakness of wood
members, shed wings or warm-
ers, soil in cracks or crevices,
and dark or blister-like areas
on wood. The major character-
istics of infested softwood
when it is broken open are that
damage is normally greatest in
the softer springwood and that
gallery walls and inner sur-
faces of shelter tubes have a
pale, spotted appearance like
dried oatmeal. The galleries
often contain a mixture of soil
and digested wood. Termites

Appendix B—Wood-Inhabiting Organisms B-3
usually enter houses through
wood in contact with the soil
or by building shelter tubes on
foundation walls, piers, chim-
neys, plumbing, weeds, etc.
Although they normally main-
tain contact with the soil, sub-
terranean termites can survive
when they are isolated from
the soil if they have a continu-
ing source of moisture. Heavy
damage by subterranean ter-
mites (except Formosans) does
not normally occur during the
first five to 10 years of a build-
ing’s life, although their attack
may start as soon as it is built.
Subterranean termites can be
controlled most effectively by
the use of chemicals in the soil
and foundation area of the
house, by breaking wood-soil
contact, and by eliminating
excess moisture in the house.
When applied properly, these
chemicals will prevent or con-
trol termite attack for at least
25 years.
� Formosan subterranean ter-
mites. Formosan subterranean
termites are a particularly vig-
orous species of subterranean
termite that has spread to this
country from the Far East.
They have caused considerable
damage in Hawaii and Guam
and have been found in several
locations on the United States
mainland. It is anticipated that
they could eventually become
established along southern
coasts, the lower East and West
Coasts, in the lower Mississippi
Valley, and in the Caribbean.
The most obvious character-
istics that distinguish For-
mosan subterranean termite
swarmers from those of native
species are their larger size (up
to16 mm compared to 9 to 13
mm) and hairy wings (com-
pared with smooth wings in
other subterraneans). Soldiers
have oval shaped heads, as
opposed to the oblong and rec-
tangular heads of native sol-
diers. Formosan termites also
produce a hard material called
carton, which resembles
sponge. This is sometimes
found in cavities under fixtures
or in walls adjacent to attacked
wood. Other characteristics—
and control methods—are simi-
lar to those for native subter-
ranean termites. However, For-
mosan subterranean termites
are more vigorous and can
cause extensive damage more
rapidly than do native species.
For this reason Formosans
should be controlled as soon
as possible after discovery.
� Drywood termites. It is quite
common for buildings to be
infested by drywood termites
within the first five years of
their construction in southern
California, southern Arizona,
southern Florida, the Pacific
area, and the Caribbean.
Swarmers generally enter
through attic vents or shingle
roofs, but in hot, dry locations,
they can be found in crawl
spaces. Window sills and
frames are other common
entry points.
Drywood termites live in
wood that is dry. They require
no contact with the soil or with
any other source of moisture.
The first sign of drywood
termite infestation is usually
piles of fecal pellets, which are
hard, less than 1 mm in length,
with rounded ends and six flat-
tened or depressed sides. The
pellets vary in color from light
gray to very dark brown,
depending on the wood being
consumed. The pellets, elimi-
nated from galleries in the
wood through round kick holes,
accumulate on surfaces or in
spider webs below the kick
holes. There is very little exter-
nal evidence of drywood ter-
mite attacks in wood other than
the pellets. The interior of dam-
aged wood has broad pockets
or chambers that are connected
by tunnels that cut across the
grain through springwood and
summerwood. The galleries are
perfectly smooth and have few,
if any, surface deposits. There
are usually some fecal pellets
stored in unused portions of
the galleries. Swarming is an-
other sign of termite presence.
It normally takes a very long
time for the termites to cause
serious weakness in house
framing. Damage to furniture,
trim, and hardwood floors can
occur in a few years. The
choice of control method
depends on the extent of dam-
age. If the infestation is wide-
spread or inaccessible, the
entire house should be fumi-
gated. If infestation is limited,
spot treatment can be used or
the damaged wood can be
removed.
� Dampwood termites.
Dampwood termites of the
desert Southwest and southern
Florida are rarely of great
danger to structures. Pacific

Residential InspectionB-4
Coast dampwood termites can
cause damage greater than
subterranean termites if envi-
ronmental conditions are ideal.
Dampwood termites build
their colonies in damp, some-
times decaying wood. Once
established, some species
extend their activities to sound
wood. They do not require con-
tact with the ground, but do
require wood with a high mois-
ture content. There is little
external evidence of the pres-
ence of dampwood termites
other than swarmers or shed
wings. They usually are associ-
ated with decayed wood. The
appearance of wood damaged
by dampwood termites de-
pends on the amount of decay
present. In comparatively
sound wood, galleries follow
the springwood. In decayed
wood, galleries are larger and
pass through both springwood
and summerwood. Some are
round in cross section, others
are oval. The surfaces of the
galleries have a velvety appear-
ance and are sometimes cov-
ered with dried fecal material.
Fecal pellets are about 1 mm
long and colored according to
the kind of wood being eaten.
Found throughout the work-
ings, the pellets are usually
hard and round at both ends.
In very damp wood, the pellets
are often spherical or irregular,
and may stick to the sides of
the galleries.
Dampwood termites must
maintain contact with damp
wood. Therefore, they can be
controlled by eliminating damp
wood. Treatment of the soil
with chemicals can also be
used to advantage in some
areas.
� Carpenter ants. Carpenter ants
burrow into wood to make
nests, but do not feed on the
wood. They commonly nest in
dead portions of standing
trees, stumps, logs, and some-
times wood in houses. Nor-
mally they do not cause exten-
sive structural damage. Most
species start their nests in
moist wood that has begun to
decay. They attack both hard-
woods and softwoods. The
most obvious sign of infesta-
tion is the large reddish-brown
to black ants, 6 to 13 mm long,
inside the house. Damage
occurs in the interior of the
wood. There may be piles or
scattered bits of wood powder
(frass), which are very fibrous
and sawdust-like. If the frass is
from decayed wood, pieces
tend to be darker and more
square ended. The frass is
expelled from cracks and
crevices, or from slit-like open-
ings made in the wood by the
ants. It is often found in base-
ments, dark closets, attics,
under porches, and in crawl
spaces. Galleries in the wood
extend along the grain and
around the annual rings. The
softer springwood is removed
first. The surfaces of the gal-
leries are smooth, as if they
had been sandpapered, and are
clean. The most effective way
to control carpenter ants is to
locate the nest and kill the
queen in colonies in and near
the house with insecticides. It
is sometimes also helpful to
treat the voids in walls, etc. For
current information on control,
an entomologist should be
contacted.
� Wood-boring beetles, bees,
and wasps. There are numer-
ous species of wood-boring
insects that occur in houses.
Some of these cause consider-
able damage if not controlled
quickly. Others are of minor
importance and attack only
unseasoned wood. Beetles,
bees, and wasps all have larval,
or grub, stages in their life
cycles, and the mature flying
insects produce entry or exit
holes in the surface of the
wood. These holes, and s a w-
dust from tunnels behind the
holes, are generally the first evi-
dence of attack that is visible to
the building inspector. Correct
identification of the insect
responsible for the damage is
essential if the appropriate con-
trol method is to be selected.
The characteristics of each of
the more common groups of
beetles, bees, and wasps are
discussed in the following table
which summarizes the size and
shape of entry or exit holes pro-
duced by wood-boring insects,
the types of wood they attack,
the appearance of frass or saw-
dust in insect tunnels, and the
insect’s ability to reinfest wood
in a house.
To use the table, match the
size and shape of the exit or
entry holes in the wood to
those listed in the table; note
whether the damaged wood is
a hardwood or softwood and
whether damage is in a new or
old wood product (evidence of
inactive infestations of insects

Residential InspectionB-6
inspector should contact the
extension entomologist at his
nearest land grant university
or a reputable pest control
company.
� Anobiid beetles. The most
common anobiids attack the
sapwood of hardwoods and
softwoods. They reinfest
seasoned wood if environmen-
tal conditions are favorable.
Attacks often start in poorly
heated or ventilated crawl
spaces and spread to other
parts of the house. They rarely
occur in houses on slab foun-
dations. Anobiids range from
3 to 7 mm in length and are
reddish-brown to nearly black.
Adult insects are rarely seen.
The most obvious sign of infes-
tation is the accumulation of
powdery frass and tiny pellets
underneath infested wood or
streaming from exit holes. The
exit holes are round and vary
from 1.5 to 3 mm in diameter.
If there are large numbers of
holes and the powder is bright
and light colored like freshly
sawed wood, the infestation is
both old and active. If all the
frass is yellowed and partially
caked on the surface where it
lies, the infestation has been
controlled or has died out nat-
urally. Anobiid tunnels are nor-
mally loosely packed with frass
and pellets. It is normally 10 or
more years before the number
of beetles infesting wood
becomes large enough for their
presence to be noted. Control
can be achieved by both chemi-
cal and non-chemical methods.
For current information on con-
trol of anobiids, the inspector
should contact the extension
entomologist at his nearest
land grant university or a rep-
utable pest control company.
� Bostrichid powderpost bee-
tles. Most bostrichids attack
hardwoods, but a few species
attack softwoods. They rarely
attack and reinfest seasoned
wood. Bostrichids range from
2.5 to 7 mm in length and
from reddish-brown to black.
The black polycaon is an atypi-
cal bostrichid and can be 13 to
25 mm in length. The first
signs of infestation are circular
entry holes for the egg tunnels
made by the females. The exit
holes made by adults are simi-
lar, but are usually filled with
frass. The frass is meal-like
and contains no pellets. It is
tightly packed in the tunnels
and does not sift out of the
wood easily. The exit holes are
round and vary from 2.5 to
9 mm in diameter. Bostrichid
tunnels are round and range
from 1.5 to 10 mm in diame-
ter. If damage is extreme, the
sapwood may be completely
consumed. Bostrichids rarely
cause significant damage in
framing lumber and primarily
affect individual pieces of
hardwood flooring or trim.
Replacement of structurally
weakened members is usually
the most economical and effec-
tive control method.
� Old house borer. This beetle
infests the sapwood of soft-
woods, primarily pine. It rein-
fests seasoned wood, unless it
is very dry. The old house
borer probably ranks next to
termites in the frequency with
which it occurs in houses in
the mid-Atlantic states. The
beetle ranges from 15 to 25
mm in length, and is brownish-
black in color. The first notice-
able sign of infestation by the
old house borer may be the
sound of larvae boring in the
wood. They make a rhythmic
ticking or rasping sound, much
like a mouse gnawing. In
severe infestations the frass,
which is packed loosely in tun-
nels, may cause the thin sur-
face layer of the wood to bulge
out, giving the wood a blis-
tered look. When adults
emerge (three to five years in
the South, five to seven years
in the North), small piles of
frass may appear beneath or
on top of infested wood. The
exit holes are oval and 6 to
10 mm in diameter. They may
be made through hardwood,
plywood, wood siding, trim,
sheetrock, paneling, or floor-
ing. The frass is composed of
very fine powder and tiny
blunt-ended pellets. If damage
is extreme, the sapwood may
be completely reduced to pow-
dery frass with a very thin
layer of surface wood. The sur-
faces of the tunnels have a
characteristic rippled pattern,
like sand over which water has
washed. Control can be
achieved by both chemical and
non-chemical methods. For
current information on control
of the old house borer, the
inspector should contact the
extension entomologist at his
nearest land grant university
or a reputable pest control
company.

Appendix B—Wood-Inhabiting Organisms B-7
� Carpenter bees. Carpenter
bees usually attack soft and
easy-to-work woods, such as
California redwood, cypress,
cedar, and Douglas fir. Bare
wood, such as unfinished sid-
ing or roof trim, is preferred.
The only external evidence of
attack is the entry holes made
by the female. These are round
and 9 mm in diameter. A
rather course sawdust-like
frass may accumulate on sur-
faces below the entry hole. The
frass is usually the color of
freshly sawed wood. The pres-
ence of carpenter bees in wood
sometimes attracts woodpeck-
ers, which increases the dam-
age to the surface of the wood.
The carpenter bee tunnels turn
at a right angle after extending
approximately an inch across
the grain of the wood, except
when entry is through the end
of a board. They then follow
the grain of the wood in a
straight line, sometimes for
several feet. The tunnels are
smooth-walled. It takes several
years of neglect for serious
structural failure to occur.
However, damaged wood is
very unsightly, particularly if
woodpeckers have followed the
bees. The bees can be con-
trolled by applying five to 10
percent carbaryl (Sevin) dust
into the entry holes. Several
days after treatment, the holes
should be plugged with dowel
or plastic wood. Prevention is
best achieved by painting all
exposed wood surfaces.
� Other wood-inhabiting i n s e c t s .
There are several other species
of insects that infest dying or
freshly felled trees or unsea-
soned wood, but that do not
reinfest seasoned wood. They
may emerge from wood in a fin-
ished house or evidence of their
presence may be observed. On
rare occasions, control mea-
sures may be justified to pre-
vent disfigurement of wood, but
control is not needed to prevent
structural weakening.
� Ambrosia beetles. These
insects attack unseasoned sap-
wood and heartwood of soft-
wood and hardwood logs, pro-
ducing circular bore holes 0.5
to 3 mm in diameter. Bore
holes do not contain frass, but
are frequently stained blue,
black, or brown. The insects do
not infest seasoned wood.
� Bark beetles. These beetles
tunnel at the wood/bark inter-
face and etch the surface of
wood immediately below the
bark. Beetles left under bark
edges on lumber may survive
for a year or more as the wood
dries. Some brown, gritty frass
may fall from circular bore
holes 1.5 to 2.5 mm in diame-
ter in the bark. These insects
do not infest wood.
� Horntails (wood wasps).
Horntails generally attack
unseasoned softwoods and do
not reinfest seasoned wood.
One species sometimes
emerges in houses from hard-
wood firewood. Horntails occa-
sionally emerge through panel-
ing, siding, or sheetrock in new
houses; it may take four to five
years for them to emerge. They
attack both sapwood and
heartwood, producing a tunnel
that is roughly C-shaped in the
tree. Exit holes and tunnels are
circular in cross-section and
1.5 to 7 mm in diameter.
Tunnels are tightly packed
with course frass. Frequently,
tunnels are exposed on the
surface of lumber by milling
after the development of the
insect.
� Round-headed borers.
Several species are included in
this group. They attack the
sapwood of softwoods and
hardwoods during storage, but
rarely attack seasoned wood.
The old house borer is the
major round-headed borer that
can reinfest seasoned wood.
When round-headed borers
emerge from wood, they make
slightly oval to nearly round
exit holes 3 to 10 mm in diam-
eter. Frass varies from rather
fine and meal-like in some
species to very course fibers
like pipe tobacco in others.
Frass may be absent from tun-
nels, particularly where the
wood was machined after the
emergence of the insects.
� Flat-headed borers. These
borers attack sapwood and
heartwood of softwoods and
hardwoods. Exit holes are oval,
with the long diameter 3 to
13 mm. Wood damaged by flat-
headed borers is generally
sawed after damage has
occurred, so tunnels are
exposed on the surface of
infested wood. Tunnels are
packed with sawdust-like bor-
ings and pellets, and tunnel
walls are covered with fine

Residential InspectionB-8
transverse lines somewhat sim-
ilar to some round-headed bor-
ers. However, the tunnels are
much more flattened. The gol-
den buprestid is one species of
flat-headed borer that occurs
occasionally in the Rocky
Mountain and Pacific Coast
states. It produces an oval exit
hole 5 to 7 mm across, and
may not emerge from wood in
houses for 10 or more years
after infestation of the wood. It
does not reinfest seasoned
wood.
If signs of insect or fungus dam-
age other than those already
described are observed, the
inspector should have the organ-
ism responsible identified before
recommending corrective mea-
sures. Small samples of damaged
wood, with any frass and insect
specimens (larvae or grubs must
be stored in vials filled with alco-
hol), should be sent for identifica-
tion to the entomology or pathol-
ogy department of the state land
grant university.

Appendix C—Life Expectancy of Housing Components C-1
Appendix C—
Life Expectancy of Housing
Components
The following material was developed for the National
Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Economics
Department based on a survey of manufacturers, trade
associations, and product researchers. Many factors affect
the life expectancy of housing components and need to be
considered when making replacement decisions, including
the quality of the components, the quality of their installa-
tion, their level of maintenance, weather and climatic condi-
tions, and intensity of their use. Some components remain
functional but become obsolete because of changing styles
and tastes or because of product improvements. Note that
the following life expectancy estimates are provided largely
by the industries or manufacturers that make and sell the
components listed.
Appliances Life in Years
Compactors 10
Dishwashers 10
Dryers 14
Disposal 10
Freezers, compact 12
Freezers, standard 16
Microwave ovens 11
Electric ranges 17
Gas ranges 19
Gas ovens 14
Refrigerators, compact 14
Refrigerators, standard 17
Washers, automatic and compact 13
Exhaust fans 20
Source: Appliance Statistical Review, April 1990
Bathrooms Life in Years
Cast iron bathtubs 50
Fiberglass bathtub and showers 10–15
Shower doors, average quality 25
Toilets 50
Sources: Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Bath
Cabinetry
Kitchen cabinets 15–20
Medicine cabinets and bath vanities 20
Sources: Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association, Neil Kelly Designers
Closet Systems
Closet shelves Lifetime
Countertops
Laminate 10–15
Ceramic tile, high-grade installation Lifetime
Wood/butcher block 20+
Granite 20+
Sources: AFPAssociates of Western Plastics, Ceramic Tile Institute of
America
Doors
Screen 25–50
Interior, hollow core Less than 30
Interior, solid core 30-lifetime
Exterior, protected overhang 80–100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25–30
Folding 30–lifetime
Garage doors 20–50
Garage door opener 10
Sources: Wayne Dalton Corporation, National Wood Window and Door
Association, Raynor Garage Doors

Residential InspectionC-2
Electrical Life in Years
Copper wiring, copper plated, 100+
copper clad aluminum, and bare
copper
Armored cable (BX) Lifetime
Conduit Lifetime
Source: Jesse Aronstein, Engineering Consultant
Finishes Used for Waterproofing
Paint, plaster, and stucco 3–5
Sealer, silicone, and waxes 1–5
Source: Brick Institute of America
Floors
Oak or pine Lifetime
Slate flagstone Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20–30
Terrazzo Lifetime
Carpeting (depends on installation, 11
amount of traffic, and quality of carpet)
Marble (depends on installation, Lifetime+
thickness of marble, and amount of
traffic)
Sources: Carpet and Rug Institute, Congoleum Corporation, Hardwood
Plywood Manufacturers Association, Marble Institute, National Terrazzo and
Mosaic Association, National Wood Flooring Association, Resilient Floor
Covering Institute
Footings and Foundation
Poured footings and foundations 200
Concrete block 100
Cement 50
Waterproofing, bituminous coating 10
Termite proofing (may have shorter 5
life in damp climates)
Source: WR Grace and Company
Heating Ventilation
and Air Conditioning Life in Years
Central air conditioning unit 15
(newer units should last longer)
Window unit 10
Air conditioner compressor 15
Humidifier 8
Electric water heater 14
Gas water heater (depends on type 11–13
of water heater lining and quality of
water)
Forced air furnaces, heat pump 15
Rooftop air conditioners 15
Boilers, hot water or steam 30
(depends on quality of water)
Furnaces, gas- or oil-fired 18
Unit heaters, gas or electric 13
Radiant heaters, electric 10
Radiant heaters, hot water or steam 25
Baseboard systems 20
Diffusers, grilles, and registers 27
Induction and fan coil units 20
Dampers 20
Centrifugal fans 25
Axial fans 20
Ventilating roof-mounted fans 20
DX, water, and steam coils 20
Electric coils 15
Heat Exchangers, shell-and-tube 24
Molded insulation 20
Pumps, sump and well 10
Burners 21
Sources: Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute, Air Conditioning,
Heating, and Refrigeration News, Air Movement and Control Association,
American Gas Association, American Society of Gas Engineers, American
Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., Safe
Aire Incorporated

Appendix C—Life Expectancy of Housing Components C-3
Home Security Life in Years
Applicances
Intrusion systems 14
Smoke detectors 12
Smoke/fire/intrusion systems 10
Insulation
For foundations, roofs, ceilings, walls, Lifetime
and floors
Sources: Insulation Contractors Association of America, North American
Insulation Manufacturers Association
Landscaping
Wooden decks 15
Brick and concrete patios 24
Tennis courts 10
Concrete walks 24
Gravel walks 4
Asphalt driveways 10
Swimming pools 18
Sprinkler systems 12
Fences 12
Sources: Associated Landscape Contractors of America, Irrigation
Association
Masonry
Chimney, fireplace, and brick veneer Lifetime
Brick and stone walls 100+
Stucco Lifetime
Sources: Brick Institute of America, Architectural Components, National
Association of Brick Distributors, National Stone Association
Millwork
Stairs, trim 50–100
Disappearing stairs 30–40
Paints and Stains Life in Years
Exterior paint on wood, brick, and 7–10
aluminum
Interior wall paint (depends on 5–10
the acrylic content)
Interior trim and door paint 5–10
Wallpaper 7
Sources: Finnaren and Haley, Glidden Company, The Wall Paper
Plumbing
Waste piping, cast iron 75–100
Sinks, enamel steel 5–10
Sinks, enamel cast iron 25–30
Sinks, china 25–30
Faucets, low quality 13–15
Faucets, high quality 15–20
Sources: American Concrete Pipe Association, Cast Iron Soil and Pipe
Institute, Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Baths
Roofing
Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes 15–30
Tile (depends on quality of tile and
climate) 50
Slate (depends on grade) 50–100
Sheet metal (depends on gauge of 20–50+
metal and quality of fastening and
application)
Built-up roofing, asphalt 12–25
Built-up roofing, coal and tar 12–30
Asphalt composition shingle 15–30
Asphalt overlag 25–35
Source: National Roofing Contractors Association

Residential InspectionC-4
Rough Structure Life in Years
Basement floor systems Lifetime
Framing, exterior and interior walls Lifetime
Source: NAHB Research Foundation
Shutters
Wood, interior Lifetime
Wood, exterior (depends on weather 4–5
conditions)
Vinyl plastic, exterior 7–8
Aluminum, interior 35–50
Aluminum, exterior 3–5
Sources: A.C. Shutters, Inc., Alcoa Building Products, American Heritage
Shutters
Siding
Gutters and downspouts 30
Siding, wood (depends on maintenance) 10–100
Siding, steel 50–Lifetime
Siding, aluminum 20–50
Siding, vinyl 50
Sources: Alcoa Building Products, Alside, Inc., Vinyl Siding Institute
Walls and Wall Treatments
Drywall and plaster 30–70
Ceramic tile, high grade installation Lifetime
Sources: Association of Wall and Ceiling Industries International, Ceramic
Tile Institute of America
Windows
Window glazing 20
Wood casement 20–50
Aluminum and vinyl casement 20–30
Screen 25–50
Sources: Best Built Products, Optimum Window Manufacturing, Safety
Glazing Certification Council, Screen Manufacturers Association

Residential InspectionD-2
The following publications are useful general
references for rehabilitating houses:
Ching, Francis D. K., and Miller, Dale E. 1983. Home
Renovation. New York: John Wiley & Sons.
Litchfield, Michael W. 1997. Renovation: A Complete
Guide. New York: Sterling Publishing.
Nash, George. 1996. Renovating Old Houses.
Newtown, CT: Taunton Press.
Vila, Bob, and Hugh Howard. 1999. Bob Vila’s
Complete Guide to Remodeling Your Home:
Everything You Need to Know about Home
Renovation from the Number One Home
Improvement Expert. New York: Harper Collins,
Avon Books.
Residential buildings of historic significance
should be rehabilitated in accordance with the
following:
Heritage Preservation Services, National Park Service
(NPS). 2000. The Secretary of the Interior’s
Standards for Rehabilitation and Illustrated Guide-
lines for Rehabilitating Historic Buildings.
Washington, DC: National Park Service. Available
from NPS, Washington, DC 20240,
http://www.nps.gov or full text online at
http://www2. cr.nps.gov/tps/tax/rhb/stand.htm.
Publications useful for assessing the energy
efficiency of existing residential buildings include:
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development
(HUD). 1982. Applying Cost-Effective Energy
Standards in Rehabilitation Projects. Washington,
DC: U.S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development. Available from HUD User, P.O. Box
6091, Rockville, MD 20849 (phone 800 245 2691),
http://www.huduser.org.
. 1981. Conserving Energy in Older Homes:
A Do-It-Yourself Manual. Washington, DC: U.S.
Department of Housing and Urban Development.
Available from HUD User, P.O. Box 6091,
Rockville, MD 20849 (phone 800 245 2691),
http://www.huduser.org.
. 1982. Energy Conserving Features in Older
Homes. Washington, DC: U.S. Department of
Housing and Urban Development. Available from
HUD User, P.O. Box 6091, Rockville, MD 20849
(phone 800 245 2691), http:// www.huduser.org.
. 1977. In the Bank or Up the Chimney: A
Dollars and Cents Guide to Energy-Savings Home
Improvement. Washington, DC: U.S. Department
of Housing and Urban Development. Available
from HUD User, P.O. Box 6091, Rockville, MD
20849 (phone 800 245 2691),
http://www.huduser.org.
. 1996. Rehabilitation Energy Guidelines for
One-to-Four Family Dwellings. Washington, DC:
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Develop-
ment. Available from HUD User, P.O. Box 6091,
Rockville, MD 20849 (phone 800 245 2691),
http:// www.huduser.org.
Wilson, Alex and John Morrill. 2000. Consumer
Guide to Home Energy Savings. 6th ed.
Washington, DC: American Council for an Energy
Efficient Economy.
The following publications are referenced in this
Guideline:
Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA).
Residential Load Calculation (Manual J).
Washington, DC: Air Conditioning Contractors of
America. Available from ACCA, 1712 New
Hampshire Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20009
(phone 202 483 9370), http:// www.acca.org.
Ambrose, James E. 2000. Simplified Engineering for
Architects and Builders. New York: John Wiley &
Sons.
Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA).
1999. Taking Shelter from the Storm: Building a
Safe Room Inside Your House (FEMA 320). 2d ed.
Washington, DC: Federal Emergency Management
Agency. Available from FEMA Publications, P.O.
Box 2012, Jessup, MD 20794-2012 (phone
800 565 3896), http:// www.fema.gov.
. 1996. Design Manual for Retrofitting Flood-
Prone Residential Structures (FEMA-114).
Washington, DC: Federal Emergency Management
Agency. Available from FEMA Publications, P.O.
Box 2012, Jessup, MD 20794-2012 (phone
800 565 3896), http:// www.fema.gov.

Appendix D—References D-3
Gypsum Association. 1999. Design Data—Gypsum
Products (GA-530). Washington, DC: Gypsum
Association. Available from Gypsum Association,
810 First Street, NW, Washington, DC 20002
(phone 202 289 5440), http://www.gypsum.org.
Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS). 1998.
Is Your Home Protected from Hurricane Disaster?
A Homeowner’s Guide to Hurricane Retrofit.
Boston: Institute for Business and Home Safety.
Available from IBHS, 175 Federal Street, Suite
500, Boston, MA 02110-2222 (phone 617 292
2003), http://www.ibhs.org.
. 1999. Is Your Home Protected from
Earthquake Disaster? A Homeowner’s Guide to
Earthquake Retrofit. Boston: Institute for Business
and Home Safety. Available from IBHS, 175
Federal Street, Suite 500, Boston, MA 02110-2222
(phone 617 292 2003), http:// www.ibhs.org.
. 1999. Is Your Home Protected from Hail
Damage? A Homeowner’s Guide to Roofing and
Hail. Boston: Institute for Business and Home
Safety. Available from IBHS, 175 Federal Street,
Suite 500, Boston, MA 02110-2222 (phone
617 292 2003),http://www.ibhs.org.
International Conference of Building Officials (ICBO).
1997. Seismic Strengthening Provisions for
Unreinforced Masonry Bearing Wall Buildings.
Appendix Chap. 1 in Uniform Code for Building
Conservation. Whittier, CA: International
Conference of Building Officials. Available from
ICBO, 5360 Workman Mill Road, Whittier, CA
90601-2298 (phone 800 423 6587),
http:// www.icbo.org.
International Ground Source Heat Pump Association
(IGSHPA). 1997. Geothermal Heat Pumps:
Introductory Guide. Stillwater, OK: International
Ground Source Heat Pump Association. Available
from IGSHPA, 490 Cordell South, Oklahoma State
University, Stillwater, OK 74078-8018 (phone
800 626 4747), http:// www.igshpa.okstate.edu
Lightning Protection Institute (LPI). Installation Code
(LPI-175). Arlington Heights, IL: Lightning
Protection Institute. Available from LPI, 3335
North Arlington Heights Road, Suite E, Arlington
Heights, IL 60004 (phone 847 577 7200),
http://www.lightning.org.
National Association of Home Builders Remodelers
Council and Single Family Small Volume Builders
Committee (NAHB). 1996. Residential Construction
Performance Guidelines for Professional Builders
and Remodelers. Washington, DC: National
Association of Home Builders. Available from
NAHB, 1201 15th Street, NW, Washington, DC
20005 (phone 202 822 0200),
http://www.nahb.org.
National Concrete Masonry Association (NCMA).
1997. Sound Transmission Class Ratings for
Concrete Masonry Walls (Tek Note 13-1). Herndon,
VA: National Concrete Masonry Association.
Available from NCMA, 2302 Horse Pen Road,
Herndon, VA 20171 (phone 703 713 1900),
http:// www.ncma.org.
National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). 1997.
Standard for the Installation of Lightning
Protection Systems (NFPA 780). Quincy, MA:
National Fire Protection Association. Available
from NFPA, Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269
(phone 617 770 3000), http:// www.nfpa.org.
National Institute of Building Sciences (NIBS). 1996.
Guidance Manual: Asbestos Operations and
Maintenance Work Practices. Washington, DC:
National Institute of Building Sciences. Available
from NIBS, 1090 Vermont Avenue, NW,
Washington, DC 20005-4905 (phone
202 289 7800), http:// www.nibs.org.
. 1995. Lead-Based Paint Operation and
Maintenance Work Practices Manual for Homes
and Buildings. Washington, DC: National Institute
of Building Sciences. Available from NIBS, 1090
Vermont Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20005-
4905 (phone 202 289 7800), http://www.nibs.org.
Partnership for Advancing Technology in Housing
(PATH). 1998–. The Rehab Guide. Vol. 1,
Foundations (HUD 8590), vol. 2, Exterior Walls
(HUD 8751), vol. 3, Roofs (HUD 8702), vol. 4,
Windows and Doors (HUD 8724), vol. 5, Partitions,
Ceilings, Floors and Stairs (HUD 8798), vol. 6,
Kitchens and Baths (HUD 8796), vol. 7,
Electrical/Electronics, vol. 8, HVAC/Plumbing

Residential InspectionD-4
(HUD 8797), vol. 9, Site Work. Washington, DC:
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development (HUD). Available from HUD User,
P.O. Box 6091, Rockville, MD 20848 (phone 800
245 2691), http:// www.huduser.org or full text
online at Path Net, http://www.pathnet.org.
Underwriters Laboratories (UL). 1994. Installation
Requirements for Lightning Protection Systems (UL
96A). Northbrook, IL: Underwriters Laboratories.
Available from UL, 333 Pfingsten Road, North-
brook, IL 60062-2096 (phone 847 272 8800),
www.ulstandardsinfonet. ul.com.
. 1994. UL Standard for Safety for Lightning
Protection Components (UL 96). Northbrook, IL:
Underwriters Laboratories. Available from UL,
333 Pfingsten Road, Northbrook, IL 60062-2096
(phone 847 272 8800),
http://www.ulstandardsinfonet.ul.com.
U. S. Department of Housing and Urban Develop-
ment (HUD). 1996. Residential Remodeling and
Universal Design: Making Homes More Comfort-
able and Accessible (HUD 07107). Washington,
DC: U.S. Department of Housing and Urban 

Development. Available from HUD User, P.O. Box
6091, Rockville, MD 20848 (phone 800 245 2691),
http:// www.huduser.org.
. 1995. Lead–Based Paint Inspections. Chap.
7 in Guidelines for the Evaluation and Control of
Lead-Based Paint Hazards in Housing. Washing-
ton, DC: U.S. Department of Housing and Urban
Development. Available from HUD User, P.O. Box
6091, Rockville, MD 20848 (phone 800 245 2691),
http:// www.huduser.org.
. 1997. Nationally Applicable Recommen-
ded Rehabilitation Provisions. Washington, DC:
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Devel-
opment. Available from HUD User, P.O. Box 6091,
Rockville, MD 20848 (phone 800 245 2691),
http://www.huduser.org.
The following test standards are referenced in this
G u i d e l i n e :
American Concrete Institute (ACI). 1992. Guide for
Making a Condition Survey of Concrete in Service
(ACI 201.1R-92). Farmington, MI: American
Concrete Institute. Available from ACI, P.O. Box
9094, Farmington, MI 48333,
http://www.aciint.org.
. 1994. Guide for Evaluation of Concrete
Structures Prior to Rehabilitation (ACI 364.1R-94).
Farmington, MI: American Concrete Institute.
Available from ACI, P.O. Box 9094, Farmington,
MI 48333, http://www.aciint.org.
. 1997. Standard Specification for Repairing
Concrete with Epoxy Mortars (ACI 503.4-92). In
Four Epoxy Standards (ACI 503.1-92). Farmington,
Michigan: American Concrete Institute. Available
from ACI, P.O. Box 9094, Farmington, MI 48333,
http://www.aciint.org.
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM).
1997. Standard Test Method for Penetration
Resistance of Hardened Concrete (ASTM
C803/X803M-97e1). West Conshohocken, PA:
American Society for Testing and Materials.
Available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive,
West Conshohocken, PA 19428 (phone 610 832
9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1997. Standard Test Method for Rebound
Number of Hardened Concrete (ASTM C805-97).
West Conshohocken, PA: American Society for
Testing and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100
Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1999. Standard Test Method for Effect of
Air Supply on Smoke Density in Flue Gasses from
Burning Distillate Fuels (ASTM D2157-94 (1999)).
West Conshohocken, PA: American Society for
Testing and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100
Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1999. Standard Test Method for Tension
Testing of Metallic Material (ASTM E8-99). West
Conshohocken, PA: American Society for Testing
and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100 Barr
Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.

Appendix D—References D-5
. 1989. Standard Test Method of
Compression Testing of Metallic Materials at Room
Temperature (ASTM E9-89ae1). West Consho-
hocken, PA: American Society for Testing and
Materials. Available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor
Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428 (phone
610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1999. Standard Method for Laboratory
Measurement of Airborne Sound Transmission
Loss of Building Partitions and Elements. (ASTM
E90-99). West Conshohocken, PA: American
Society for Testing and Materials. Available from
ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West
Conshohocken, PA 19428 (phone 610 832 9500),
http://www.astm.org.
. 1996. Standard Method of Laboratory
Measurement of Impact Sound Transmission
Through Floor-Ceiling Assemblies Using the
Tapping Machine (ASTM E492-90(1996)e1). West
Conshohocken, PA: American Society for Testing
and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100 Barr
Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1999. Standard Test Methods for Flexural
Bond Strength of Masonry (ASTM E518-99). West
Conshohocken, PA: American Society for Testing
and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100 Barr
Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1993. Standard Test Method for Diagonal
Tension (Shear) in Masonry Assemblages ( A S T M
E519- 81(1993)e1). West Conshohocken, PA:
American Society for Testing and Materials.
Available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive,
West Conshohocken, PA 19428 (phone
610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1995. Standard Test Method for
Determining Air Change in a Single Zone by
Means of a Tracer Gas Dilution (ASTM E741-95).
West Conshohocken, PA: American Society for
Testing and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100
Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1999. Standard Test Method for Determin-
ing Air Leakage Rate by Fan Pressurization (ASTM
E779-99). West Conshohocken, PA: American
Society for Testing and Materials. Available from
ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West
Conshohocken, PA 19428 (phone 610 832 9500),
http://www.astm.org.
. 1993. Standard Test Method for Field
Measurement of Air Leakage Through Installed
Exterior Windows and Doors (ASTM E783-93).
West Conshohocken, PA: American Society for
Testing and Materials. Available from ASTM, 100
Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428
(phone 610 832 9500), http://www.astm.org.
. 1996. Standard Test Method for Field
Determination of Water Penetration of Installed
Exterior Windows, Curtain Walls, and Doors by
Uniform or Cyclic Static Air Pressure Difference
(ASTM E1105-96). West Conshohocken, PA:
American Society for Testing and Materials.
Available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive,
West Conshohocken, PA 19428 (phone 610 832
9500), http://www.astm.org.
American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE). 1990.
Guideline for Structural Condition Assessment of
Existing Buildings (ASCE 11-90). Reston, VA:
American Society of Civil Engineers. Available
from ASCE, 1801 Alexander Bell Drive, Reston,
VA 20191-4400 (phone 703 295 6300),
http://www.asce.org.
Associated Air Balance Council (AABC). 1999. AABC
Test and Balance Procedures (MN-4). Washington,
DC: Associated Air Balance Council. Available
from AABC, 1518 K Street, NW, Washington, DC
20005 (phone 202 737 0202),
http://www.aabchq.com.
National Environmental Balancing Bureau (NEBB).
1998. Procedural Standards for Testing, Adjusting,
and Balancing of Environmental Systems, 6th ed.
Gaithersburg, MD: National Environmental
Balancing Bureau. Available from NEBB, 8575
Grovemont Circle, Gaithersburg, MD 20877-4121
(phone 301 977 3698) http://www/nebb.org.

Residential InspectionD-6

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-1
Appendix E—
Inspection Record
Building Name/Location
Lot size Zoning classification
Year building built Date of alterations
Total building area
Applicable building codes Height limitation
Setback requirements:
Front yard
Side yard
Rear yard
Other
General comments:

Residential InspectionE-2
Site Plan
Note the following on the site plan:
� North arrow � Outbuildings
� Lot lines � Sidewalks and driveways
� Building outline � Plantings
� Drainage direction(s) � Fences and walls
� Utility lines
� Water well, if any
� Septic system, if any
� Drawing scale
Provide dimensions for all major site components

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-3
Elevations
Note the following on each elevation:
� All exterior doors and windows � Material types
� Important architectural details � Direction of view
� Floor-to-floor heights � Drawing scale
Supplement with exterior photographs as appropriate

Residential InspectionE-4
Floor plan
Note the following on each floor plan:
� North arrow � Exterior dimensions
� Floor level � Window sizes
� Wall thicknesses � Door widths and swings
� Wall materials � Room dimensions
� Plumbing fixtures
� HVAC equipment
� Kitchen cabinetry
� Scale
Show major structural elements in colored pencil or marker

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-5
Inspection checklist
1—Site
Data Condition/needed repairs
1.1 Drainage
1.2 Site improvements
1.3 Outbuildings
1.4 Yards and Courts
1.5 Flood Region
Window well sizes
Basement stairwell size
Types of plantings
Fence dimensions
Lighting types
Driveway dimensions
Sidewalk widths
Step dimensions
Retaining walls
Garage dimensions
Shed dimensions
Other
Areaway dimensions
Lighting dimensions
Access
� Flood risk zone (see local authorities)

Residential InspectionE-6
2—Building Exterior
Data Condition/needed repairs
2.1 Foundation Walls and Piers
2.2 Exterior Wall Cladding
See Sections 4.1 and 4.2 for masonry
See Section 4.7 for concrete
See Section 4.5 for wood
Cladding material
Thermal insulation
Door types No.
Window types No.
Storm window type No.
Storm door type No.
Size(s)
Flooring material(s)
Railing height(s)
� Replace � Retain
Covering type
Flashing type
� Replace � Retain
Covering type
Flashing type
Size(s)
2.3 Windows and Doors
2.4 Decks, Porches, Balconies
2.5 Pitched roofs
2.6 Flat Roofs
2.7 Skylights

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-7
Data Condition/needed repairs
2.8 Gutters, Downspouts and Drains
� Replace � Retain
Gutter size(s)
(1 sq. in. per 100 sq. ft. of roof)
Downspout size(s)
(one downspout per 40 ft. of gutter)
Height above roof
Flue size(s)
� Requires structural inspection
� Protection required
2.9 Chimneys
2.10 Parapets and Gables
2.11 Lightning Protection

Residential InspectionE-8
3—Building Interior
3.1 Basement/Crawl Space
3.2 Interior Spaces
Data Condition/needed repairs
Floor height
Floor material
Wall material
Insulating materials
Room
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor material
Door size(s)
Window size(s)
Closet size(s)
Trim
No. 120V outlets � 240V outlet
Heat source
Skylights
Room
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor material
Door size(s)
Window size(s)
Closet size(s)
Trim
No. 120V outlets � 240V outlet
Heat source
Skylights

Data Condition/needed repairs
Room
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor material
Door size(s)
Window size(s)
Closet size(s)
Trim
No. 120V outlets � 240V outlet
Heat source
Skylights
Room
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor material
Door size(s)
Window size(s)
Closet size(s)
Trim
No. 120V outlets � 240V outlet
Heat source
Skylights
Appendix E—Inspection Record E-9

Residential InspectionE-10
3.3 Bathroom
Data Condition/needed repairs
Room
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor material
Door size(s)
Window size(s)
Closet size(s)
Trim
No. 120V outlets � 240V outlet
Heat source
Skylights
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor/wall material(s)
Window size Height from floor
Closet size(s)
Heat source
� 120V outlet � GFCI protected
Lavatory: � Replace � Retain
Toilet: � Replace � Retain
Tub/shower: � Replace � Retain
Ventilation source

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-11
3.4 Kitchen
Data Condition/needed repairs
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material(s)
Floor/wall material(s)
Window size Height from floor
Closet size(s)
Heat source
� 120V outlet � GFCI protected
Lavatory: � Replace � Retain
Toilet: � Replace � Retain
Tub/shower: � Replace � Retain
Ventilation source
Dimensions Height
Ceiling/wall material
Floor covering
Window size(s)
Counter space, l.f.
Overhead cabinets, l.f.
Undercounter cabinets, l.f.
Heat source
No. of 120v outlets
� Sep. 120V 20 amp refrig. outlet
� 240V range outlet
� gas outlet
Dishwasher (20 amp.) � Replace � Retain
Disposal (20 amp.) � Replace � Retain
Exhaust fan: � Replace � Retain
Other: � Replace � Retain

Residential InspectionE-12
3.5 Storage Spaces
Data Condition/needed repairs
Location Size
Location Size
Location Size
Ceiling/wall material
Floor material
� Three-way light control
� Smoke detector
Handrail ht. Railing ht.
Tread/riser dim.
Stair width Head room
Structural integrity
Ceiling/wall material
Floor covering
� Plumbing connections adequate
� Dryer vent
Laundry tub: � Replace � Retain
� Floor drain present
Washer: � Replace � Retain
Dryer: � Replace � Retain
� 240V. outlet
� Gas outlet
Opening Location Size Depth
3.6 Stairs/Hallway
3.7 Laundry/Utility Room
3.8 Fireplace/flues

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-13
Data Condition/needed repairs
3.9 Attic
Ht. of highest point
Means of access
Ventilation, clear area s.f.
Signs of roof leakage
Type of insulation Depth
� Conduct pressurization test
� Scan exterior for heat loss
� Conduct sound transmission tests
� Evidence of asbestos
� Evidence of lead-based paint
� Water test conducted
� Radon test conducted
� Requires structural inspection
3.10 Whole Building Thermal Efficiency Tests
3.11 Sound Transmission Control
3.12 Asbestos
3.13 Lead
3.14 Radon
3.15 Tornado Room

Residential InspectionE-14
4—Structural System
Data Condition/needed repairs
4.1 Seismic Resistance
4.2 Wind Resistance
4.3 Masonry, General
� Requires structural inspection
� Requires structural inspection
Load bearing walls are:
Foundation wall material
Wall thickness
Pier material
Pier size(s)
Pier spacing
Depth of footings
� Structural problems
Wall material(s)
Wall thickness
Support over openings
� Thermal moisture cracking
� Freeze/thaw, corrosion cracking
� Structural failure cracking
� Wall bulging
� Wall leaning
� Brick veneer problems
� Parapet wall problems
� Fire damage problems
4.4 Masonry Foundations and Piers
4.5 Above-ground Masonry Walls

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-15
Data Condition/needed repairs
4.6 Chimneys
4.7 Wood Structural Components
4.8 Iron and Steel Structural Components
Chimney materials
Depth of footings
� Structural problems
Framing type
(balloon, platform, timber frame)
Floor members size spacing
Floor substrate material
Wall members size spacing
Wall substrate material
Ceiling members size spacing
Roof members size spacing
Roof substrate material
� Deflection/warping problems
� Signs of fungal/insect attack
� Fire damage problems
Lintels, Columns and Beams
size location
size location
size location
� Lintel problems
� Column/beam problems
� Fire damage problems

Residential InspectionE-16
Data Condition/needed repairs
4.9 Concrete Structural Components
Slabs, Lintels, Walls
size location
size location
size location
� Foundation/cracking problems
� Interior slab-on-grade problems
� Exterior concrete problems
� Fire damage problems
5—Electrical System
5.1 Service Entry
5.2 Main Panelboard
� Replace � Retain
Capacity from street Amps: Volts:
Overhead wire clearance
� Electric meter adequate
� Service entrance conductor adequate
� Replace � Retain
Main circuit breaker Amps: Volts:
Grounded to
� 15 Amp fuses/circuit breakers No.
� 20 Amp fuses/circuit breakers No.
� 25 Amp fuses/circuit breakers No.
� 30 Amp fuses/circuit breakers No.
� 40 Amp fuses/circuit breakers No.
� Overcurrent protection adequate

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-17
Data Condition/needed repairs
5.3 Branch Circuits � Replace � Retain
Circuit Wire Wire Area
No. Gage Capacity Served
� Circuits grounded to panel box
� Wire insulation in good condition
� Aluminum wire used

Residential InspectionE-18
6—Plumbing
Data Condition/needed repairs
6.1 Water Service Entry
6.2 Interior Water Distribution Lines
6.3 DWV Piping
� Replace � Retain
Curb valve location
Line size Material
� Shutoff valve operable
Water meter location
� Replace � Retain
Pipe Pipe Fixtures
size material served
� Thermal protection adequate
� Replace � Retain
Pipe Pipe Fixtures
size material served
� Vents, drains and traps operable

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-19
Data Condition/needed repairs
6.4/6.5 Hot Water Heater � Replace � Retain
Type Age
Storage capacity Gal.
Recovery Rate
� Plumbing components adequate
� Fuel burning components adequate
� Controls adequate
Location
Depth of casing
Pump type Age
Capacity GPM Depth
� Pressure tank adequate
Location
Tank capacity Gal.
Age of system
Size of drain field
� Grease trap clean
� Service entrance has adequate clearance/flexible connection
� Has automatic emergency shutoff valve
6.6 Water Well
6.7 Septic system
6.8 Gas Supply in Seismic Regions

Residential InspectionE-20
7—HVAC System
Data Condition/needed repairs
7.1 Thermostatic Controls
7.2–7.6 Heating System
7.7–7.10 Cooling System
� Replace � Retain
Location(s)
� Master switch operable
� Replace � Retain
Location
Fuel type
Fuel storage capacity
System type
Age of heating unit
BTU/hr output
� Room ventilation adequate
� Physical condition adequate
� Operation adequate
� Venting/draft adequate
� Distribution system adequate
� Controls adequate
� Replace � Retain
Location
System type
Age of cooling unit
Electric service reqd.
� Physical condition adequate
� Operation adequate
� Replace � Retain
Humidifier type
� Physical condition adequate
� Operation adequate
7.11 Humidifier

Appendix E—Inspection Record E-21
7.12 Unit air conditioners
7.13 Whole House and Attic Fans
Data Condition/needed repairs
� Replace � Retain
Location Capacity in Tons Volts Amps
� Replace � Retain
Location
Capacity in cubic ft/min.

Residential InspectionE-22
Additional Notes

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development
HUD USER
P.O. Box 6091
Rockville, MD 20849
_______________________
Official Business
Penalty for Private Use $300
FIRST CLASS MAIL
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